Extreme Makeover: Acne Studios Edition

Born in 2000, photographer Sophia Wilson, who started shooting and working professionally at just 12 years old, describes her work as Indie Sleaze because “that’s just what photography was during that time.” Yet, being so young and “one of the only Black female photographers” in the space, she feels her work didn't get enough appreciation. She says, "I think there’s something to be said about growing up in the original era of Indie Sleaze and being part of that original wave and seeing it become so trendy again.”

Sophia continues, “Looking at Indie Sleaze now made me realize how white it is as an aesthetic. I think about the aesthetic and these skinny white girls come to mind, but I don’t think at the core of it, that’s what Indie Sleaze needs to be. For me, it’s about the bright flash, the tones, the pops of color, the poses and the fashion.” Together we created these images to pose the question “Can Indie Sleaze be Black?” and below chat about specific references (Coyote Ugly, Spring Breakers), Indie Sleaze’s resurgence, and even evolution, as something everyone can be a part of. 

Aŋëër wears top and skirt by MINDBLOWN, shoes by AMAZON

Alanna wears top by OTTOLINGER, shoes by DAVID KOMA; Alanna wears jacket and bra by SEKS, panty hose by AMAZON, shoes by R13, Aŋëër wears top and skirt by MINDBLOWN, shoes by AMAZON, Sarah wears full look MASHA POPOVA 

office — So how would you describe Indie Sleaze?

Sophia Wilson — I think that traditionally the elements of Indie Sleaze are skimpy clothes, bright flash, so corny that it's not corny.

So bad that it's not bad.

Exactly. You have to be in it to understand it. Otherwise, it looks insane. I think about kow-rise, skinny, torn-up jeans, cigarettes, whatever was on Tumblr.

Coyote Ugly.

I would even say Spring Breakers, or old-school Brooke Shields movies.

Yeah, it's all the same vibe, really.

 

 

Sarah wears top and shoes by DSQUARED2, shorts and hat by AMAZON, Aŋëër wears corset, panties, shawl by ROOM SERVICE, shoes and socks by AMAZON

Any clothing references? I say anything that looks like it costs $10 from a thrift even if it’s Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent. 

Yeah like Abercrombie & Fitch, all of those ads. Maybe even Brandy Melville. It’s crazy because Brandy was so popular and trending in that era. I feel like I was the first kid ever to go to Brandy Melville, and then all of a sudden I was shooting for Brandy Melville. I was a Brandy Melville photographer when I was 12, and now so many years have passed. Then, all of that crazy shit about Brandy Melville comes out. Everybody knew it was a one-size-fits-all, you had to be skinny to shop Brandy. Now there are so many documentaries and articles about the mistreatment and the racism but all of sudden, all of the club kids and Dimes kids are unironically shopping Brandy Melville.

Right. Almost like the slate’s been wiped clean. It’s interesting because, with the original era, people were adopting an aesthetic and styles based on the ’80s and ‘90s. This iteration of ‘Indie Sleaze’ is copying the ‘00s and ‘10s. It’s really funny. Like sneaker heels, hello? Back then it was lowkey cringe, now it’s so hot. 

Yep. Isn't that insane? Oh, also a lot of leather and fur. Brands like Diesel and DSQUARED2 are making comebacks because of this. Or even how Miu Miu has leaned into this bright-flash/quirky style with the nerdy glasses and super, super mini skirts. It almost reminds me of Abercrombie, but in the best way. 

Or black eyeliner under the eye, tramp stamps. It’s all coming back. What were some of the elements you tried to incorporate?

I did a lot of searching through my old Tumblr and found so many accounts from the 2010s. The photo in the series where all their hair is braided together was a reference from when I was 11 or 12 using Instagram. I remember that being a trend, and beyond that, I asked myself the question, “Is Indie Sleaze inherently tied to whiteness and skinniness, or are people just misinterpreting it?” I’ve never really seen Indie Sleaze on Black people before and honestly, I don’t know if it’s going to stray so far away from the aesthetic that it just no longer is… but I focused a lot on cooler tones than warmer, high contrast, skimpy clothes, long, dramatic hair.

Tumblr was so crazy. The original moodboard, now it’s Pinterest but we should bring Tumblr back. 

So insane. I would not be surprised if Tumblr had a revival. 

It is interesting how the original era coincided with an economic recession (2008) and its resurgence came out of this post-pandemic period where everyone’s depressed and talks about an impending recession keep surfacing. Ultimately, it’s still about indulgence and ignoring your problems. 

Exactly.

In our time, there is so much more representation in mainstream media, the spotlight isn't solely on white people when it comes to most subcultures really, maybe debunking the misconception that Indie Sleaze was ever a white creation.

Exactly. And I’d go as far as saying that Indie Sleaze was originally invented by Black People but they never got the spotlight on it. They got excluded from it, and it feels very intentional. 

Right. I think about how often its associated with rock bands and the exclusionary atmosphere that can exist in that realm. 

Totally. And so much of the makeup aesthetics were very much from Black people: the big lips, big eyes, even getting your edges done, I see white girls doing it now. 

Yeah, that’s crazy. 

I think that this photo series proves that Indie Sleaze can be Black, or it already was, and I don't know why it's only been associated with white, skinny people. It can be on anybody, and I hope that encourages people to take up a lot more space. That said, things have also changed, like party photography is so much more diverse. It’s refreshing to see. Taking it a step further is proving that anybody can adopt this aesthetic even now.