Primped and Pampered

May 15, 2019

Pierced, hand-drawn, or bedazzled, we’ve seen it all and more from the innovators of the nail industry this year, and it’s safe to say we’re obsessed. From Issue 09’s “Riding Around in a Killer’s Car” featuring work by Juan Alvear to Issue 10’s “True Story” featuring work by Mei Kawajiri, there’s no doubt that nails have quietly become the sweetest cherry on top of any given look.

But with all the frenzy and excitement circulating this blossoming industry, it's easy to forget all the elbow grease that goes into making a career in nail design a viable, lucrative, and downright enjoyable endeavor. That’s why we hit up Vivian Xue, CEO and creator of Pamper Nail Gallery, who gave us exclusive insight into the necessary balance between creative edge and business savvy, from 8-hour single sessions to Dwight Schrute nail portraits and everything in between on her road to success.

Text by Caroline Brown
Interview by Olivia McDougal

When did you first start doing nails? Did your artwork or nail work come first?

I started my career as an aspiring Silicon Valley tech entrepreneur. I am both left and right brained, so I thought designing software was a great way to marry both art and logic. I was 19 and co-founded a Q&A platform that was supposed to modernize Yahoo Answers. I got my first taste of how amazing it felt to create things that could make a difference in people’s lives. My first company flopped along with a few more that followed. In 2012, I was asked by one of my first angel investors to join the founding team of a new on-demand massage platform --Soothe. I worked as a UX designer, front end developer, customer service representative, fundraiser, you name it. I learned a lot about the health, beauty, and wellness industry as well as formed some beliefs on how I could improve upon the industries. There’s not a ton of great career options for all these skilled laborers and there’s not a standardization anywhere such that skills can be shared and marketed. We were nickel and diming people who had spent hundreds of hours, thousands of dollars, just to marginalize them under gig economy wages.

When I left Soothe to start Pamper, I springboarded off the same tech-based on-demand concept and iterated from there, and concentrated on the nails industry. The ultimate vision was to create a place like Pamper Nail Gallery, where nail artistry can be taken seriously as a real and lucrative career. At the time, I was extremely enamoured by Instagram-famous nail artists, who made me fall in love with long nails and the possibility that it can be used as a canvas for serious art. My talent for nail art was a byproduct of me needing time to relax while building the company. I like to keep busy, and my mind is always racing with ideas. A very talented gal named Regina who worked with us gifted me with a watercolor set a few months before the salon opened (January 2017). I was familiar with watercolors, so I sat down to paint a portrait of Sailor Pluto on my own nails. The product was actually pretty good! I was hooked.

I read that you think of nail art as a collaboration between you and the client. What kinds of questions do you ask them when deciding on a design?

I always ask what their interests are, it helps me gauge the genres of art we can explore. The sets we create are original and tailored. I enjoy creating art for clients that they can appreciate. Longtime clients come with central themes and leave the rest in our hands. Those are the best.

What do you think makes you stand out from other nail design salons?

We consider all current and future Pamper Nail Gallery locations to be unique design houses because of the mix of creative minds in the group. Because of our business model, our nail artists are financially well taken care of and have no reason to compete for clientele. This makes for an extremely collaborative environment with the right combination of standardization and eclecticism. We freely help each other build one another's social media presence as well as have one of the most effective apprenticeships in the nail world. We’re also extremely focused on hand-painted, handcrafted nail art. We exclusively do nail extensions (no manis, no pedis). This helps us become highly specialized in what we do.

What is the craziest design you have ever done?

Most would say all the art I post is crazy so I’ll go with some of my favorites, my handpainted Dwight Shrute (from The Office) paired with Jim Halpert dressed as Dwight, handpainted Thanos complete with Infinity Gauntlet, and handpainted Bob Ross!

What was the most difficult part of starting your business?

The biggest challenge is trying to overcome difficulties (i.e. misconceptions and unsafe salon practices) associated with an evolving, underdeveloped, and fragmented nail industry. The traditional nail industry is not one that is taken seriously both from a client’s perspective and from a career-development perspective. What we’ve created is not a “nail salon” in the traditional sense. We do not offer manicures or pedicures, and we focus only on handcrafted luxury nail art. This niche service sector didn’t really exist prior to social media, and so we find ourselves having to be extremely mindful of educating clients on safe practices, product quality, and appropriate pricing. Every client we acquire, we educate.

A lot of the long term career options for aspiring nail artists are still challenging. Accumulating wealth as a single nail tech is very difficult and highly risky. We’re helping out young nail artists with high potential for success to be able to have a real career (this means a steady salary and commission, full medical/dental/vision benefits, and in the near future, 401k, and paid vacations).

What do you think makes you stand out from other nail design salons?

What is the craziest design you have ever done?

What was the most difficult part of starting your business?

What kind of art are you most inspired by?

I try and pull inspiration from everywhere, not just things considered to be art. I think about things that make me smile. This happens extremely haphazardly. I could be watching old TV re-runs or pick up a book somewhere or see something at the market. Lately I’ve been really into medieval, Byzantine, and Renaissance art. I also have other alterior motives in the form of trying to capture the attention of people who don’t normally have an appreciation for nail art. As you can probably tell, my favorite nails are the ones that get a lot of attention from a variety of people. They’re not “pretty”, but they do better at getting a chuckle out of you.

How did you find your team?

We’re big on culture-fit here. Though our initial batch came from the likes of Craigslist and word of mouth, our most successful new recruiting tool is our apprenticeship program. We look for highly motivated and driven individuals who really want to make a career out of nails and we start them as customer service representatives. They spend a lot of time with the team, they have access to 1:1 time with anyone. One of my favorite things to do is collaborate with our apprentices after-hours and do their nails so they can get a private lesson in simultaneously. Our work environment is predicated upon every team member being responsible, respectful, self-starting, and motivated. All the girls here are forces to be reckoned with. They learn fast and they enjoy growing in their careers.

What is the longest it has taken you to do someone’s nails?

8 hours! To paint characters on all 10 nails. Mario Brothers!

Dream client?

I am my own favorite client...I know this is strange to say, but when I’m doing my own sets I am most free and it’s when I experience the most growth and satisfaction. A close second is doing nails on the girls at the salon. It’s rewarding to draw with zero pressure. We’ve coined the term “Pamper After Hours” as the most mentally recharging and creatively prolific time of the day.

How important is your Instagram for your business?

Instagram is the reason why the nail industry is taking a huge turn towards art and thus it’s extremely important for any nail art business to have a strong presence. It’s how we attract the right clientele and showcase our abilities. We almost exclusively acquire clients from social media.

How did you come up with the name Pamper?

The original intention behind the name was geared towards our origins as an on-demand beauty app. It was short and sweet and thus good for an app name or web address. It also embodies the intent behind the service we sold. Later, when we pivoted to the nail art-only salon, we adapted the name to Pamper Nail Gallery, which was halfway between nail salon and art gallery.

Beauty

Power in Glam at Kim Shui: FW24

For Shui, this collection is about claiming and standing in your power. Even the color palette — deep oxbloods, vibrant greens, and bright cherry reds — evokes intensity, inspired by Kazuo Shiraga Gutai’s paintings.

Signature Shui elements found their way into this collection, including lace detailing and printed mini dresses, but other intentional design choices are specific to the range, like corseted leather jackets and brazen shoulder pads. These symbolize structure and support, bracing the Kim Shui woman for whatever life throws her way — even though she doesn’t need clothing to reinforce that strength, it’s already inside of her.

Backstage offered a closer look into just how fierce every look was, amplified by sultry makeup. Siren eyes were complimented by candy-like shellacked lips and the final accessory touches — futuristic Poppy Lissiman and Akila sunglasses and fingerless gloves — were just the cherry on top of every look.

Beauty

Sonny Molina

February 03, 2024

More an architect of tresses than a groomer, Sonny Molina's work is as much about art as it is about hair. While many of us think of past hair experiments and shudder at memories of less-than-desirable uneven bangs and botched accidental chops, Molina's textured, unexpected, and trendsetting cuts defy convention and only get sexier as they grow out. A long way from the days of testing haircuts on friends, they now have an entire network of models and creatives eager and willing to go under their shears. Since finding a home in the beautiful chaos of Manhattan, Molina has cut and styled the stars of downtown, including fellow office person and New York star Ren G of Club Eat. Their editorial work has graced the covers of The Cut, Homme Girls, Perfect, and Re-Edition, and their styles have graced the runways of Anna Bolina and Vaquera alike, crowning it girls like Bella Hadid, Paloma Elsesser, and Hunter Schafer. While every look Molina crafts is wildly unique from the rest, they are all united by Molina's love for creative expression and impulse for adventure.

Interview OFFICE
Photography YAHSHEL MACAPAGAL

[Originally published in office magazine Issue 20, Fall-Winter 2023. Order your copy here.]

What is your ideal office?

Somewhere overlooking Manhattan … with plenty of space and light.

If you could switch lives with someone for a day, who would it be and what would you do?

Probably some gross billionaire and literally fund all my friends’ dreams immediately!

What era most inspires you?

There is truly something special about every era … but I do love the 70’s.

Who was the last person you hugged, and how did it feel?

My partner Coco, it felt tender.

For you, what is the most sacred place in New York?

As cliche as it sounds, anywhere my friends are!

What does play look like to you?

Blissful with no boundaries.

If you were a hair tool or product, what would you be?

I would be a classic mixed-bristle hairbrush.

What is your favorite texture at the moment?

I'm obsessed with patina … as a texture and color.

Who was the last person to make you laugh?

My dog Kiki. Yes, he’s more of a person than a dog.

How do you win in a fight?

Listen, process, reciprocate.

Beauty

Love for Our Mother

Throwing factory-produced recipes and excessive packaging to the wayside, the ethical beauty and scent brand collaborates with herbalists, farmers, and expert perfumers to create sustainable perfumes and cosmetics — while also marrying the worlds of art and beauty through their one-of-a-kind hand-blown glass vessels. Because beauty is truly an art, and we should decorate ourselves as worthy canvasses. office sat down with Kindred Black’s co-founders to discuss their unique process below.

What originally spurred you both to introduce a disruptive, apothecary-esque brand to the beauty scene?

Alice— I think it’s kind of age-old: I had this need in my own life and couldn’t figure out a way to fill that need in a way that aligned with my values. We’re both makeup and skincare lovers but with packaging being what it is, there was so much we didn’t feel right buying. We wanted an alternative where as much thought is put into the packaging as it is in the ingredients, where every single element of the line is considered.

Jen— We always said we’re not going to be the “please recycle this plastic bag” type of company — that’s such BS! Companies need to invest in alternatives so the public isn’t left guessing how to make their products more environmentally friendly. We spend a lot more money than we would have to if we just mass-produced bottles overseas and bottled up some pretty skincare. But we’re super anti-greenwashing — we want our behind-the-scenes to be 100% true to the ethics and values that we put out there to our community.

Your packaging — artisan-crafted glass bottles — really takes thoughtful production and consumption to the next level.

Alice— When we initially set out to design the collection, we envisioned a vanity with beautiful vessels, no branding, just pure oils and scents in colorful shapes and silhouettes. Life is already so cluttered; we think of the beauty routine as a quiet time, a private, sacred space. The entire line is plastic-free and every single item in the collection comes in an individually handblown glass vessel. Behind each bottle is an artist blowing out the glass, one by one. They’re not producing mass quantities; everything is designed to be treasured.

Tell me about the Kindred Black community. Not only do you work closely and travel to meet farmers and herbalists, but you also partner with artists and artisans for your one-of-a-kind glass bottles. What does this community mean to you?

Jen— They’re everything for us and we couldn’t have such a special line without them. We’ve met such extraordinary people doing this — a chemist turned perfumer who only creates using ancient methods of extraction with the flowers and plants that she grows. An herbalist that specializes in Sonoran Desert flora. Glass blowers from all over the country who show their work in museums and create our bottles one by one like unique sculptures. Even a collective in Mexico that creates bottles using glass from residents and restaurants because there is no municipal recycling. They all have different specialties, but our community shares a set of values when it comes to our planet.

You also mentioned that the brand is historically rooted. How does the past inform every scent, cosmetic, or rich skin serum?

Alice— We’re both hugely into history and just curious people. When you start to look into it, some botanicals have been used for thousands of years to heal and scent the skin and as primitive cosmetics and ‘medicine,’ dating back to the earliest civilizations. People have always used what’s around them for beauty. Our formulas all start with who used this plant, what for, and whether or not there is a good reason to still use it on the skin. For example, our Aker Fassi lip and cheek pigment is a recipe that makes use of a dried poppy flower that North African Berber women have used as makeup for centuries. It’s a beautiful, flattering shade of berry red and we were just so taken by its place in history.

What is your favorite scent you have created to date?

Jen— This is hard — I love Earthly because it’s just so different from anything I’ve ever smelled. It’s like grassy damp moss and violet leaves but also has a lot of lilac enfleurage in it. Not many people use real lilac because it’s incredibly difficult and time-consuming to make and has a more subtle scent than say a jasmine or a rose. But real lilac is incredible and complex.

Alice— Delta Dawn is my current favorite. It's a classic floral rose but has real depth to it — an underbelly. The star ingredient is a night-blooming Damask rose that’s harvested before the sun rises. You can smell the cool night air, but also the warmth and muskiness of the jasmine oil, known as the perfume of love.

How does art play a role in Kindred Black? Many of the handmade bottles sold are antique or vintage-inspired. Where did that shared interest spur from?

Alice— We’re both big collectors, verging on hoarders, and have shelves and boxes full of trinkets and treasures we’ve picked up over the years — everything from piles of shells and rocks to antique Lalique perfume vessels, antiquarian snuff bottles, folk art liquor jugs, and on and on. We often find ourselves using an old glass piece as a jumping-off point — or a piece that we’re lusting after in an auction or Museum catalog. The halls of The Met are filled with incredibly beautiful glass perfumes and cosmetic tinctures that have survived millennia. Pre-plastic everything, in the early 20th century, many cosmetics were refillable and came in the most exquisite packaging — lipsticks in sterling silver canisters, blush in bejeweled compacts. They were practically pieces of jewelry. We like to think of our bottles as precious objects that people will hold on to and cherish as the years go by.

You just launched your refill program. How do you hope this sways the wider beauty industry?

Jen— We were really excited to start doing refills for our skincare — like I said, our bottles are like little, individually made sculptures. We chose aluminum for the refills because the necks are wide enough to clean the bottle out and aluminum is the most easily recyclable material. We’re hoping that if a tiny company like ours can spend the money and do it, more of these million and billion-dollar brands will start paying attention to their footprint. They have such power to create real change, it’s heartbreaking so many of them choose to sidestep the opportunity.

Tell me about one of the strangest ingredients you have worked with.

Jen— We made a light summer perfume and skin treatment once to benefit the Ocean Conservancy and infused the ingredients with sea salt from the Sea of Cortez. Not a strange ingredient but it definitely gave the scent a unique profile. We once gathered large sacks of rose petals from the world’s largest rose bush that sits inside the courtyard of an old hotel in Tombstone, AZ. We had a lot of grand ideas for it but the petals couldn’t be cleaned well enough to be made into anything marketable, so we had to give up on it. Sometimes these experiments fail!

Alice— Maybe the strangest right now is quite widely used for cosmetics by everyone from Chanel on down because it’s a safe alternative to chemical dyes. The rich berry red of Night Venom is from a pigment that is made from the cochineal beetle, an insect native to parts of North and South America. It’s actually a stain that has been used for centuries – Cleopatra is said to have ground up the beetle in beeswax to achieve her renowned red lips. The Aztecs also used the pigment for dyeing and painting, and it was then brought back to Europe with their Spanish colonizers.

You just celebrated eight years. What do you hope is in store for the next few and how do you hope to continue revolutionizing the beauty space?

Jen— We’re always looking to make things less wasteful in everything we do. There’s always room to improve. We’d like for our line to be 100% refillable and are working on bottle design tweaks that would make that achievable. We’d also love to expand the glass operation down the road and begin recycling our own glass. Our mantra is “love for our mother” and it informs everything that we do.

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