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The Quietly Potent Age of Poise: THE GARMENT SS24

The dressed up casual looks were the key winners: That’s because Roe and Eskildsen share a passion for craftsmanship and a creative edge that outstrips a du jour aesthetic. Simple? Yes, somewhat — but the fitted shape and the quietly sensual dresses kept the lineup nicely pulled together. The designers have worked with the gracious blend of minimalist design, muted colors, and organic textures, creating a serene atmosphere by way of delicate crocheted pieces, and-sewn and tailored garments with special design details. The fatal touch? The bow, which plays a central part. As the ultimate symbol of the feminine, it leaps out in different ways and reappears in the many masculine silhouettes.

 

The biggest takeaway, staple-wise, was a shift into what Roe, Eskildsen and their team are calling “feminine effortlessness.” We’ve heard that term for a while now. Yet even though the trendiness of relaxedwear has come and gone, it doesn't make cropped toppers and plunging necklines with sharp edges or billowing trousers any less desirable. In a way, the dynamism and elegance apparent in these pieces felt a little like Haute Parisian take on color, volume and proportion. Only this being The Garment, there’s a subtler, everyone appeal.

 

What might be more challenging for their fans: a 19th-century headwear piece in an off white color, a black see-through figure-hugging bodysuit or a white knitted two-piece that had arms extremely lengthened to the knee. These marked a little overly crumbly section of the lineup and not quite as poised and streamlined as the sharply-cut, earth-tinged outerwear and stylish shirts seen elsewhere. That Scandi workwear combo has been the chicest thing we’ve seen so far at Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring 2024. Functional, but highly covetable, it’s a nudge that most customers will likely respond to.

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