Both relevant and timeless, this collection isn’t only giving us we want, it’s also giving us what we need.
Peep it, below.
'Tailoring' is available now via SSENSE and at Dover Street Market New York, Los Angeles, London & Ginza.
Aŋëër wears top and skirt by MINDBLOWN, shoes by Amazon
Born in 2000, photographer Sophia Wilson, who started shooting and working professionally at just 12 years old, describes her work as Indie Sleaze because “that’s just what photography was during that time.” Yet, being so young feels and “one of the only Black female photographers” in the space, she feels her work didn't get enough appreciation. She says, "I think there’s something to be said about growing up in the original era of Indie Sleaze and being part of that original wave and seeing it become so trendy again.”
Sophia continues, “Looking at Indie Sleaze now made me realize how white it is as an aesthetic. I think about the aesthetic and these skinny white girls come to mind, but I don’t think at the core of it, that’s what indie sleaze needs to be. For me, it’s about the bright flash, the tones, the pops of color, the poses and the fashion.” Together we created these images to pose the question “Can Indie Sleaze be Black?” and below chat about specific references (Coyote Ugly, Spring Breakers), Indie Sleaze’s resurgence, and even evolution as something everyone can be a part of.
office — So how would you describe Indie Sleaze?
Sophia Wilson — I think that traditionally the elements of Indie Sleaze are skimpy clothes, bright flash, and so corny that it's not corny.
So bad that it's not bad anymore.
Exactly. You have to be in it, understand it. Otherwise, it would look insane. Low-rise, skinny, torn-up jeans, cigarettes.
Coyote Ugly.
I would even say Spring Breakers, or old-school Brooke Shields movies.
Yeah, it's all the same vibe, really.
Any clothing references? I say anything that looks like it costs $10 from a thrift even if it’s Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent.
Yeah like Abercrombie & Fitch, all of those ads. Maybe even Brandy Melville. It’s crazy because Brandy was so popular and trending in that era. I feel like I was the first kid ever to go to Brandy Melville, and then all of a sudden I was shooting for Brandy Melville. I was a Brandy Melville photographer when I was 12, and now so many years have passed. Then, all of that crazy shit about Brandy Melville comes out. Everybody knew it was a one-size-fits-all, you had to be skinny to shop Brandy. Now there are so many documentaries and articles about the mistreatment and the racism but all of sudden, all of the club kids and Dimes kids are unironically shopping Brandy Melville.
Right. Almost like the slate’s been wiped clean. It’s interesting because, with the original era, people were adopting an aesthetic and styles based on the ’80s and ‘90s. This iteration of ‘Indie Sleaze’ is copying the ‘00s and ‘10s. It’s really funny. Like sneaker heels, hello? Back then it was lowkey cringe, now it’s so hot.
Yep. Isn't that insane? Oh, also a lot of leather and fur. Brands like Diesel and DSQUARED2 are making comebacks because of this. Or even how Miu Miu has leaned into this bright-flash/quirky style with the nerdy glasses and super, super mini skirts. It almost reminds me of Abercrombie but in the best way.
Or black eyeliner under the eye, tramp stamps. It’s all coming back. What were some of the elements you’d tried to incorporate?
I did a lot of searching through my old Tumblr and found so many accounts from the 2010s. The photo in the series where all their hair is braided together was a reference from when I was 11 or 12 using Instagram. I remember that being a trend, and beyond that, I asked myself the question, “Is Indie Sleaze inherently tied to whiteness and skinniness, or are people just misinterpreting it?” I’ve never really seen Indie Sleaze on Black people before and honestly, I don’t know if it’s going to stray so far away from the aesthetic that it just no longer is… but I focused a lot on cooler tones than warmer, high contrast, skimpy clothes, long, dramatic hair.
Tumblr was so crazy. The original moldboard, now it’s Pinterest but we should bring Tumblr back.
So insane. I would not be surprised if Tumblr made a revival.
It is interesting how the original era coincided with an economic recession (2008) and its resurgence came out of this post-pandemic period where everyone’s depressed and talks about an impending recession keep surfacing. Ultimately, it’s still about indulgence and ignoring your problems.
Exactly.
And in the era we’re living in, there are so many more Black people represented in mainstream media so it’s inevitable that there’s more representation in this interpretation of the aesthetic.
Exactly. And I’d go as far as saying that Indie Sleaze was originally invented by Black People and they never got the spotlight on it. They got excluded from it, and it feels very intentional.
Right. I think about how popular it was amongst rock bands and the exclusionary atmosphere that exists in that realm.
Totally. And so much of the makeup aesthetics were very much from Black people: the big lips, big eyes, even getting your edges done, I see white girls doing it now.
Yeah, that’s crazy.
I think that this photo series proves that indie sleaze can be Black, and I don't know why it's only been associated with white, skinny people. It can be on anybody, and I hope that encourages people to take up a lot more space. And it has changed, party photography is so much more diverse. It’s refreshing to see. Taking it a step further is proving that anybody can adopt this aesthetic.
Aŋëër wears top and skirt by MINDBLOWN, shoes by Amazon
In a similar spirit, Youssouf Fofana, a Parisian native of Senegalese origins and the founder and creative director of Maison Château Rouge and the United Youth International (Union de le Jeunesse), an organization empowering Parisian youth through entrepreneurship, embodies the cultural fusion that Jordan Brand champions. Youssouf's five year long collaboration with Jordan Brand extends beyond fashion; it represents a cultural exchange that transcends borders and generations. As a creative director, Youssouf tells us that he brings his vision of cultural synthesis to life by "looking for the meeting point of our two universes to create something new."
"Synthesis represents the natural assimilation by the sons and daughters of African descent immigrants mixed with the culture and tradition of the country where they settled and grew up; this gives light to a new form of creation, mixing seamlessly heritage and tradition with modernity to design authentically for the diaspora. It is not just about mixing two elements, but it is really a way to create a new natural form of language." Reflecting on founding the UYI, named after his second collaboration with Air Jordan in 2021, Youssouf explains, “What we wanted to do with this collection was to showcase a celebration of youth and the diaspora internationally. For me, as a youth who had a different view of the world and a different idea of how to shape things, I wanted to create a place for others like me to be able to express this, and it was very logical that it took place in the 18th arrondissement in Paris,” a neighborhood that has long been a hub for French-speaking African diaspora as well as some African-American creatives, much like The Bronx.
Recognizing the vast array of African influences that intersect in the 18th, Youssouf creates “a new territory for the next generation to feel at ease in the country that welcomed their parents or those that came before.” And he sees the Olympics, which have always been the ultimate platform for sports, as an opportunity to serve the youth across the city.
Alongside Youssouf, French-American baller, Gabby Williams, a forward in the WNBA’s Seattle Storm and an Olympic Bronze medalist who joined the Jordan brand in 2023, came out to play, debuting the brand’s French Federation kit. Youssouf designed a custom Jordan Brand two-piece suit for Gabby to wear, "inspired by vintage basketball warm-up outfits, synthesized by the silhouette of a suit tailored in the tradition of French know-how." He joined the VisionAir Showcase with UYI members, giving Parisian youth culture a chance to shine on their own terms at the summit. We chatted with them below.
Grew up in the 19th arrondissement. Co-founder of streetwear project Outside.
What was the first pair of Jordans you owned?
When I was 12, I put a pair of Jordan 4s in my profile photo on the networks because it was a vibe, I just wanted to, but suddenly all my friends started to roast me because they didn't understand why. [Laughs]
Do you have a favorite Jordan style?
I love the Jordan 3, because I find it really classy, it looks really dressy. You can wear it with everything: jeans, jogging pants, to do anything, out for an evening, it goes everywhere.
Is there an athlete you're rooting for during the games?
Mbappé but hey we’ll see if he’ll be there. I really like his determination. “Don’t talk to me about age” represents his mentality well, there are no excuses.
What does the intersection of sport and culture mean to you?
I feel like sport meets culture outside. Our way of living means that we are always on the move. In France, in the projects we wear tracksuits, because we naturally have a sports mentality.
Photographer and Junior Artistic Director
What was the first pair of Jordans you owned?
My first pair of Jordans was a red Jordan 3, although I absolutely wanted a pair of 4s for several years. I thought it was a Jordan 4 model, but after seeing everyone at school and college wearing the Jordan 4 I realized that I had the wrong model, it was ultimately the three but I told myself that it was more authentic and I could have had any Jordan on my foot. The important thing was to have a pair.
Is there an athlete you're rooting for?
No particular athlete, but I have an interest in dance and the fact that break dancing is represented this year at the Olympic Games is very important to me and I want to actively follow this discipline.
How do you think the Olympic Games will impact the city this summer?
The fact that the Olympic Games are taking place in Paris can be an opportunity for the city to be seen from a new perspective. It is an opportunity for the whole world to discover Parisian culture, that is to say a diverse culture, a culture with multiple influences.
Grew up in the 18th arrondissement. Maison Château Rouge / United Youth International Coordinator
What was the first pair of Jordans you owned?
My first was an Air Jordan 6. My brother worked in a sneaker store in Châtelet and he gave me this pair for the start of 5th grade at college.
Is there an athlete you are rooting for the Olympics this summer?
Victor Wembanyama and Nicolas Batum with the French team!
Do you play basketball?
Yes, I've been playing street basketball since I was 13, playing from time to time with my friends. In high school, there was a basketball court in the playground, and we played during lunch breaks, recess or at the end of classes on a court. During college, I played it with my friends in the square. There is so much access to basketball in Paris also with all the courts like at Square Léon, Stalingrad, Charenton, or Carpentier, etc.
What influence do you think the Olympics this summer can have on Parisian youth?
Today, for me sport is anchored in culture. I think it can encourage more young people to practice sports other than football or basketball, and maybe even participate in the Olympic Games one day. Why not?
