Their garments are usually loud—take their Handmaid's Tale collection from 2017, or the Tiffany & Co. bag and credit card dresses from Fall/Winter '17 and Spring/Summer '18, respectively. But as the brand has continued to grow, their collections have become less so, at least just for the sake of making a statement, and more focused on giving the garments what they actually need to make one on their own.
Of course, DiCaprio, Sully and Taubensee still have their big moments—like last season's finale cap and gown—but overall, the trio seems to have grown up. In doing so, they've started to look more towards the future—as the slightly more commercial nature of Pre-Fall '19 suggests—and undoubtedly figured out the Vaquera stamp, learning how to reimagine vintage pieces from other designers, while still doing what's unapologetically true to them.
Pre-Fall, for example, definitely nods to Margiela and Gaultier—the former through their accessories, and the ways in which they've incorporated (and reformatted) the dry cleaner accents; the latter in the dry cleaner theme, itself. But unlike previous seasons, in which these references might have felt more literal, this season, the comparisons fall only in the liner notes—this collection looks more like Vaquera than anything else. And with each new collection, it's clear the brand understands more what that really means.
View the Pre-Fall '19 lookbook, below.