Sugar, Spice and Everything Glitter!
What would Christian's superpower be? First he'd like the power to never sleep, to get shit done and secondly to teleport, to take more vacations. I back the second.
Check out a few of our favorites below.
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What would Christian's superpower be? First he'd like the power to never sleep, to get shit done and secondly to teleport, to take more vacations. I back the second.
Check out a few of our favorites below.
We caught up with the man front and centre of it all Carlo Rivetti, President of Stone Island, who has played a significant role in the success and development of the company.
What were your thoughts when walking around the exhibition in LA this week and seeing it come together in person?
Carlo Rivetti — Entering the exhibition fills me with pride. Every piece I encounter holds significance in relation to our research and the memories from the initial 42 years.
How do you think this exhibition contributes to the broader understanding and appreciation of Stone Island's product and History?
CR — In the past few days, I observed numerous visitors entering the exhibition, surprised at the product innovations that were on display. I was very delighted that all the guests were all quite curious, taking the time to read captions carefully and posing additional questions to our staff about the pieces. My feeling is that visitors have become fascinated by our history and now possess more insights to understand and appreciate Stone Island.
What significance does this exhibition hold to you and Stone Island?
CR — The exhibition makes me very proud and emotional. It is a selection among more than 30.000 garments of our archive and to be able to show them in North America is an important achievement to me.
Were there any specific pieces from the 42 archival items that stood out to you, and if so, why?
CR — It is always hard to choose! I can tell you two pieces that are opposite and still represent the brand well:
The Hand-Painted Camouflage jacket undergoes an artisanal process inspired by military techniques aiming to replicate their uniforms. The field jacket is initially garment-dyed in black, then part of the jacket is corroded, and ultimately, it is meticulously hand-painted, making each piece unique.
While the Pure Metal Shell jacket was such an innovative feat in technology. We conducted extensive research on metals to create this beautiful and remarkable jacket, showcased at the Centre Pompidou in Paris.
In your opinion, what distinguishes Stone Island's approach to fashion and design, as showcased in the exhibition?
CR — It's the ongoing and thorough investigation into the transformation and evolution of fibers and fabrics. Our exclusive ability to intervene on the finished garment through continuous dyeing experiments is a key aspect. This approach has unveiled materials and production techniques previously unused in the clothing industry, resulting in Stone Island developing over 60,000 unique dye recipes.
Before our time was up on the west coast and following our chat with Carlo, we talked to Stone Island Archivist and Creative Consultant Arco Maher to get his take on such a big moment.
Can you share your initial reactions upon learning about Stone Island's first-ever major US archival exhibition and it being at Frieze Los Angeles?
Arco Maher — A long time coming! Pure excitement and just a momentous occasion for Stone Island. It's the perfect opportunity for the US audience to connect with Stone on a deeper level to appreciate how impressive the archive is and learn about the extensive research and innovation behind the brand. The partnership with Frieze speaks volumes to how Stone pieces can be viewed as wearable art.
As a dedicated Stone Island collector, what significance does this exhibition hold for you personally?
AM — The chronological walk through of Stone Island pieces was super cool to see with 42 archival pieces displayed at the opening section; an iconic piece from each year the brand has been in existence. Many of the jackets displayed crossover with pieces in my own archive collection… but it does pain me to admit I am missing a handful of special items so there was a sense of envy too! Witnessing all these remarkable creations alongside one another is a real moment to cherish.
Were there any specific pieces from the 42 archival items that stood out to you, and if so, why?
AM — The SS 1988 Pink Raso Gommato Black Cover jacket; commonly referred to as the “Helicopter Visor” Jacket is a masterpiece. It features a removable visor that folds away into the collar reminiscent of military dust goggles. Supreme referenced this model in the 2014 collaboration with Stone labelling it the “Nero” jacket - this piece also featured in the exhibition with both pieces being incredibly sought after.
I always love seeing the Paul Harvey designed AW 2000 Kevlar Jacket… a material no one had previously been able to garment dye but as always Stone Island cracked the code and completed the challenge. As Andrea Moro (head of product design at SI) says, as soon as there’s an impossible task (Carlo Rivetti's blue eyes sparkle) the mission is to make it possible.
How do you think this exhibition contributes to the broader understanding and appreciation of Stone Island's product and history?
AM — The LAB LIFE division in this exhibition was a perfect tool for storytelling to highlight both the design aspect of Stone Island but most importantly speak to the worldwide community that has adopted the brand as their own. My good friend Avi Gold’s Better Gift Shop space, the masterpiece film directed by Jeremy Elkin’s and the SS2024 campaign shots highlighted how community is really at the heart of Stone Island. It’s something that’s engrained in UK/EU history through many subcultures over years but this exhibition educated an exciting new wave of Stone Island devotees from the Americas.
Were there any surprises or discoveries for you during the exhibition, considering your extensive knowledge of Stone Island's collections?
AM — My Stone Island knowledge is pretty encyclopedic so no suprises, although it was incredible to see the Shadow Project collection displayed in its entirety from 2008 through to 2021; designed by Errolson Hugh. There was actually a number of pieces I had completely forgotten about! I think however deep your knowledge of the brand runs; it’s difficult to leave the exhibition space without feeling very inspired.
In your opinion, what distinguishes Stone Island's approach to fashion and design, as showcased in the exhibition?
AM — An appetite for research, curiosity and a certain philosophy is the driving force behind Stone Island design. We saw countless examples of archive pieces where a material was introduced that the fashion world had never seen before. Most notably the Monofilament mesh fabric; typically seen in the world of water filtering systems or the Tela Stella textile with its original use being a tarpaulin used on the top of military trucks. It’s really apparent after experiencing the pieces in the exhibition that it’s very hard to pigeonhole Stone Island or compare it to other brands as it’s very much exists in its lane!
Any big takeaways from your time at Frieze this week?
AM — Henry Taylor, Javier Ramirez & James Perkins works were all big standouts to me! And away from Frieze; the Luna Luna exhibition was a highlight!
Dusty, earth tones with subtle touches of dirtied pink and rustic oranges through the collection drawn from classic Western films give that good old Americana flavor that GUESS USA does so well. There's also more of that worn-out leather and distressed denims that keep us coming back for that desired, lived-in feel. Complimenting design codes are carried over to this season's accessories, the main character being the Claudia bag, featuring stud embellishments and treated to appear rusted. Our favorites are the soft shell cowboy boots and new square toe biker boots that give the sense of true cross-country traversal.
Russell wanted to capture "something unattainable and just out of reach," hence the Splash reference, in which a man is infatuated with a woman who's secretly a mermaid. Eli captures the campaign's protagonists submerged in water (no tail showing just yet) donning standout pieces from the collection, which somehow creates those same emotions of an unobtainable obsession.
SS24 is available at Slam Jam and GUESS USA as of February 29th.
Among other inspiring women, the documentary highlights the achievements of Ashley Comeaux, Cheresse Thornhill-Goldson, Eliya Jackson, Kimberly Shane, and Precious Hannah-King, a group of Miami-based creatives recognized for pioneering design representation for Black women in the footwear industry. Working in collaboration with the Black Talent in Design & Fashion Fund, these women are among the first Black women to design athletic sneakers for industry-leading brands, simultaneously breaking barriers and enhancing opportunities for future generations of Black designers in the footwear industry. Thornhill-Goldson also serves as the director of adidas's School for Experiential Education in Design (SEED) in Brooklyn.
A few of the designers filled us in on what it means to "create with purpose" to them.
What does it mean to you to be celebrated with the documentary, Create with Purpose?
Cheresse Thornhill-Goldson— After 17 years of being in the industry and just doing the work without all the applause. Now being celebrated for the work that was so challenging feels validating. There’s finally acknowledgment for what we've done and how we've pushed this industry forward.
Ashley Comeaux— This is work we’ve all been doing behind the scenes so now I feel seen, we feel seen. We take on personal responsibility to lift up our sister, and I think in all of this, I feel humbled and honored to be here with my sisters in design in an industry where our voices aren’t always heard. I hope it plants a seed for another woman of color in the industry.
And Eliya, in the panel, you mentioned not going to college. What has it been like for you as a youth to be in this amazing team of women, and perhaps seeing your friends and people in your circle going down a different path?
Eliya Jackson— I’m actually proud that I didn’t go to college. I see my peers and some of them may not have gotten to where they want to get to. I’ve done it in a path that is unique. It shows that everyone’s journey is different, and I’m very grateful to have walked my journey.
Tell me about an “Aha-moment” in your life.
Precious Hannah-King— I believe my aha-moment was when I was told no. Being told no and then trying to figure out how to get a yes, and then being told no again. Then figuring out how do I take the hinges off the door because you’re not gonna let me in. There has to be a way to get in. Being told no made me think differently and figure out a way whether it's getting a design approved or whatever.
Kimberly Shane— I do a lot of things afraid and in the face of fear. My aha-moment was being able to press through in the face of fear. I had to learn not to be afraid of going through that door first. I realized that I'm able to do that because I'm able to jump, still be afraid but still jump. Fear doesn’t go away but I feel fear is fuel. If I'm not afraid to do it, the dream isn’t big enough.
What is one piece of advice that resonates with your journey that you'd give to someone else?
Precious Hannah-King— Take the hinges off the door.
Cheresse Thornhill-Goldson— Practice an abundance mindset.
Ashley Comeaux— Imposter syndrome shows up as moments and you have to push through those.
Eliya Jackson— Humility, gratitude, and perseverance can get you a long way.
Kimberly Shane— Don’t discount the power of relationships. The most important things are not things but relationships.