Venus in Chains

October 01, 2018

Ahead of her Paris Fashion Week presentation, Rei Kawakubo made an announcement: this season, instead of an abstract collection rife with esoteric meaning, she would be delivering something intensely personal, and in a lot of ways, political, for Comme des Garçons S/S '19.

For someone so notoriously private, it was shocking to hear she'd be, in one way or another, letting us into her purposely protected psyche; even more so, because she was telling us about it. Kawakubo, who's built her career on creating avant-garde—I don't even want to call them fashion, or looks, because they're so much more than that—works of art that left us guessing as to what she could possibly be thinking, or referencing? That's always been part of the beauty of Comme des Garçons—like all of the best art, we've been left to attach to it our own meaning; our own feelings.

But as models began walking down the runway, with chains delicately peeking out from inside their sleeves, and tears in the middle of their gowns or coats, exposing an inner layer, covered in handwritten print, it was hard not to know exactly what Kawakubo was saying.

This was her ode to, the weight of, the insecurity that comes with, being a woman.

Considering the current cultural and political climate, in many ways, right now, that's an incredibly difficult thing. In a lot of other ways, there's been no better time than to be someone who identifies as femme. But that's exactly what it means to be a woman: a contradiction. We're confident, like the sparkling embellishments on Kawakubo's jackets; we're broken by our insecurities, like the ripped seams and unfinished hems; we're beautiful, and mysterious, like the roses throughout the collection; we're overly delicate, and transparent, like the fabrics on which they were printed. But perhaps, our greatest strength is in the realization of all of these things—acknowledging, and accepting, our chains means we can no longer be imprisoned, or weighed down by them. Comme des Garçons S/S '19 was Kawakubo's surrender to her ingeuinty, and inadequacy, and in turn, her freedom from both.

See some of our favorite looks, below.

Photos courtesy of the brand.

Fashion

Paris Calling

Fashion

How Youssouf Fofana and Jordan Brand are showing up for Paris youth

April 15, 2024

Ahead of the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, Nike transformed the Palais Brongniart into the ultimate showcase of Nike AIR, the groundbreaking tech that’s revolutionized athletic performance since its debut in 1978. ‘Nike on Air’ marked the final countdown to the biggest stage in sports, offering a moment to celebrate the hard work and technology that brought it all to life, and unveiling the footwear and apparel the brand’s athletes will don this summer. Guests were given an exclusive preview of the 2024 national uniforms and kits set to grace the fields of play in Paris, alongside a glimpse of the latest innovation in Air technology: a sculpted unit in the upcoming Pegasus Premium, slated for release in 2025.

Nike Air extends beyond performance enhancement, it has become a symbol of individuality for athletes and beyond. Growing up in The Bronx, where the swoosh was as ubiquitous as the jumpman, sneakers acted a form of self-expression and cultural identity. Juliana Sagat, lead designer of women’s footwear product lifestyle, explains that Nike’s athletes similarly seek gear that not only optimizes their performance but also reflects their personalities and experiences. For them, the process of designing and choosing gear boils down to three key elements: the blend of experience, expression, and emotion. While Air for Nike is all about innovation, Air for Jordan shows up for the culture, uniquely, its in communities. Like the swoosh, the jumpman means something to people, signifying not only athleticism but belonging.

By Sahir Ahmed
Photography by Seth McGinnis

In a similar spirit, Youssouf Fofana, a Parisian native of Senegalese origins and the founder and creative director of Maison Château Rouge and the United Youth International (Union de le Jeunesse), an organization empowering Parisian youth through entrepreneurship, embodies the cultural fusion that Jordan Brand champions. Youssouf's five year long collaboration with Jordan Brand extends beyond fashion; it represents a cultural exchange that transcends borders and generations. As a creative director, Youssouf tells us that he brings his vision of cultural synthesis to life by "looking for the meeting point of our two universes to create something new."

"Synthesis represents the natural assimilation by the sons and daughters of African descent immigrants mixed with the culture and tradition of the country where they settled and grew up; this gives light to a new form of creation, mixing seamlessly heritage and tradition with modernity to design authentically for the diaspora. It is not just about mixing two elements, but it is really a way to create a new natural form of language." Reflecting on founding the UYI, named after his second collaboration with Air Jordan in 2021, Youssouf explains, “What we wanted to do with this collection was to showcase a celebration of youth and the diaspora internationally. For me, as a youth who had a different view of the world and a different idea of how to shape things, I wanted to create a place for others like me to be able to express this, and it was very logical that it took place in the 18th arrondissement in Paris,” a neighborhood that has long been a hub for French-speaking African diaspora as well as some African-American creatives, much like The Bronx.

Recognizing the vast array of African influences that intersect in the 18th, Youssouf creates “a new territory for the next generation to feel at ease in the country that welcomed their parents or those that came before.” And he sees the Olympics, which have always been the ultimate platform for sports, as an opportunity to serve the youth across the city.

Alongside Youssouf, French-American baller, Gabby Williams, a forward in the WNBA’s Seattle Storm and an Olympic Bronze medalist who joined the Jordan brand in 2023, came out to play, debuting the brand’s French Federation kit. Youssouf designed a custom Jordan Brand two-piece suit for Gabby to wear, "inspired by vintage basketball warm-up outfits, synthesized by the silhouette of a suit tailored in the tradition of French know-how." He joined the VisionAir Showcase with UYI members, giving Parisian youth culture a chance to shine on their own terms at the summit. We chatted with them below.

Leni Abdoulaye, 22

Grew up in the 19th arrondissement. Co-founder of streetwear project Outside.

What was the first pair of Jordans you owned?

When I was 12, I put a pair of Jordan 4s in my profile photo on the networks because it was a vibe, I just wanted to, but suddenly all my friends started to roast me because they didn't understand why. [Laughs]

Do you have a favorite Jordan style?

I love the Jordan 3, because I find it really classy, it looks really dressy. You can wear it with everything: jeans, jogging pants, to do anything, out for an evening, it goes everywhere.

Is there an athlete you're rooting for during the games?

Mbappé but hey we’ll see if he’ll be there. I really like his determination. “Don’t talk to me about age” represents his mentality well, there are no excuses.

What does the intersection of sport and culture mean to you?

I feel like sport meets culture outside. Our way of living means that we are always on the move. In France, in the projects we wear tracksuits, because we naturally have a sports mentality.

Marion Gomez, 22
Photographer and Junior Artistic Director

What was the first pair of Jordans you owned?

My first pair of Jordans was a red Jordan 3, although I absolutely wanted a pair of 4s for several years. I thought it was a Jordan 4 model, but after seeing everyone at school and college wearing the Jordan 4 I realized that I had the wrong model, it was ultimately the three but I told myself that it was more authentic and I could have had any Jordan on my foot. The important thing was to have a pair.

Is there an athlete you're rooting for?

No particular athlete, but I have an interest in dance and the fact that break dancing is represented this year at the Olympic Games is very important to me and I want to actively follow this discipline.

How do you think the Olympic Games will impact the city this summer?

The fact that the Olympic Games are taking place in Paris can be an opportunity for the city to be seen from a new perspective. It is an opportunity for the whole world to discover Parisian culture, that is to say a diverse culture, a culture with multiple influences.

Soriba Dambakate, 24
Grew up in the 18th arrondissement. Maison Château Rouge / United Youth International Coordinator

What was the first pair of Jordans you owned?

My first was an Air Jordan 6. My brother worked in a sneaker store in Châtelet and he gave me this pair for the start of 5th grade at college.

Is there an athlete you are rooting for the Olympics this summer?

Victor Wembanyama and Nicolas Batum with the French team!

Do you play basketball?

Yes, I've been playing street basketball since I was 13, playing from time to time with my friends. In high school, there was a basketball court in the playground, and we played during lunch breaks, recess or at the end of classes on a court. During college, I played it with my friends in the square. There is so much access to basketball in Paris also with all the courts like at Square Léon, Stalingrad, Charenton, or Carpentier, etc.

What influence do you think the Olympics this summer can have on Parisian youth?

Today, for me sport is anchored in culture. I think it can encourage more young people to practice sports other than football or basketball, and maybe even participate in the Olympic Games one day. Why not?

Fashion

Dressing the Sixth Annual Pornhub Awards: Briana Andelore on Creating with SEKS

How did you, Will and Abel (the minds behind Seks.llc) meet?

Well, I’ve known about Seks for a really long time just from being in New York and being in the club. They used to be called Seks 5th Avenue a while back. But honestly, I don’t even know how it happened, whether Julia told me or if we just started DMing. I think Julia messaged Abel, then Will and I started DMing and we had a crazy package debacle in LA — because the mail is crazy — so we had a moment and that’s definitely when it all came to life.

What was it like working together to create each of the looks?

It feels like it was meant to happen weirdly enough, because the second that we met there was an instant connection and obsession, I think, for both of us. And this collaboration was almost an evolution of what we've been doing, put to life on all of these girls. So I'm grateful that it did happen because it's just so iconic.

Julia and I have a relationship where we don't have to talk to each other much — we’re kind of telepathic in that way. Abel and I also share this telepathy because sometimes we just read each other's mind and he knows exactly what I want. I don't feel like I've ever found that in a designer. If I show him a couple of pictures or I give him my ideas, it is always executed above and beyond what I ever expected.

Did you create each look with the girl in mind already?

We had the girls in mind, but I also knew that things were going to change because once you meet someone and can feel their energy, you tend to feel differently and are like, Oh this piece works better with you because you have a bubbly energy, or you have a more serious energy, or you have a more fierce energy, or whichever may come into place in the moment. I like to keep things pretty open.

Asa Akira & Queenie Sateen

Was there a narrative arc that brought each of the looks together?

We kind of took inspiration from the venue, [Whisky a Go Go], and individuality within rock and roll culture, this very rebellious, ’I don’t give a fuck’ energy. It’s just whatever it wants to be, not confined to any one thing. Each look was its own personality, looking to recreate the energy of that era in a modern context.

What was it like once you finally saw everyone in their look and the night played out?

The energy was definitely there. It was so electric and it felt like the space was coming alive. Everyone was really partying. Everybody was drinking and enjoying themselves because it was just a night to celebrate, and all of the girls were so amazing and cool and felt good in their outfits. When we were dressing, all of them were like, I love it. You don’t always get that. To make 11 girls feel amazing and happy, feeling their best selves on the carpet and at the party, you know it’s going to be the best night ever.

How hands-on were you in the process?

So, I always work as a team, that’s just how I vibe. Even when Julia and I were doing Franziska Fox, we had our technical designer, and our employees, but we all worked together to build those collections. I feel like working as a team is the best way to do things because that’s when ideas can be thoughtful and full of love. I have my girls now and we all also build all of our looks together. And Abel and I love each other so much, so this is like our love child. We co-created all of it. Abel has all of these technical and amazing ideas, but overall, it showcases things we both appreciate and conceptualized together really.

Natassia Dreams & Ryan Reid

Do you have any memories that come to mind from the months spent working on this project?

There is a story that people don't know about the collection. So Abel actually got really sick earlier this year and had to go into surgery. I got the news of us doing this collaboration a couple days before he went into surgery actually, so we didn't know if we were going to do it. He came out of surgery and it was super hard for him to adjust, as he was in a wheelchair throughout the process of making this collection, but at the same time, it also gave him life and hope. When we were finally finished with the collection, Abel was walking again.

Wow, that gives me goosebumps.

It’s a story that means so much to us and truly a collaboration that is beyond what it came to life as for us internally. Now he’s doing really, really well. He’s basically back to normal now, but this collection — the creativity it gave him — truly healed him. That’s just the power creativity can have.

And community, being surrounded by people that you really connect to and want to work with. Could you see yourself doing similar collaborative projects in the future?

Well, I have a shoe coming out in September so it is something that I’m working on. It’s created, but in sales now. It just takes time to drop. But yeah, I would love to create with Abel again and other emerging designers.

And you also worked with Julia on OMG Fashun which is coming out on E! pretty soon?

Yeah, so I executive produced OMG Fashun, and I styled Julia. The show is so amazing. There are so many talented young designers — and some of it is virtually untapped, similar to Seks when we met and they’ve already come so far. With the show, the world’s going to be able to see all of these incredible designers and they’re going to be able to grow, and that’s my favorite part of it all, meeting all of these talented people and seeing what they do, who they dress next, where the world takes them.

Yeah, totally. And there are so many amazing designers that people have yet to hear about, so that’s exciting.

Yeah, I get to work with a lot of young designers from really everywhere — Paris, Florence, Milan, Amsterdam come to mind — and it’s so great because everywhere, it’s basically caters to their communities. Like here in New York, we have our young designers like Women’s History Month, who have an amazing store where they sells some of their own creations and vintage as well. Then there’s Lucky Jewel, James Valoria, Retail Pharmacy, all of these places that are part of our Downtown community. Retail Pharmacy highlights so many different designers in New York while mixing in pieces from around the world, and similar hubs are popping up all over the place.

Everyone’s also so connected because of social media.

Yeah, the internet is such a great place to tap in. That’s how I talk to a lot of designers. They begin as strangers and then sometimes I get to meet them when I go somewhere in the world, say for Fashion Week. Those moments are just so nice and also just creating this community around the world. I think more people will tap into it, especially with the show coming out, highlighting young designers, sustainability, and buying into that as the cool thing to do. It would be great to develop more with the designers on the show, and others around the world, a place for everybody to go to shop for them.

You should make the new modern day department store, like Retail Pharmacy x100.

Oh my God, that would be my dream. That's like heaven for sure.