Into the Wild

December 11, 2018

Fashion is meant to celebrate the female body—but often times, it falls short of actually understanding it. While flowing skirts and deconstructed tops might look good on some women, it's not for all women; and perhaps more importantly, it's not something all women want to wear. But when it comes to both fit and desire, Glenn Martens gets inside the minds of his female customers, producing clothes that not only honor the wearer, but make us feel like they're something we actually want to own.

For his Spring '19 Y/Project collection, the designer took that etho to an all new level, delivering a collection rooted in femininity—in all its forms.

Photography by Vadim Kovriga
Styling by Innokentiy Makarov
Casting by Emmanuelle Delserieys @ Creartvt
Nails by Eri Narita
Model: Pilar @ The Claw
Fashion Assistant: Alie K

That's why, when photographer Vadim Kovriga, decided to shoot the collection, he knew he had to create a space in which the model wasn't just a mannequin to show off Martens' designs; but rather, a symbol of the deeper meaning behind each garment, and the duality in both being a woman and Martens' clothes.

As women, we are wild; we are elegant; we are soft; we are hard. Being a woman means being true to our feelings, no matter how different they are—and part of our power lies in that contradiction.

The Y/Project S/S '19 collection seems to showcase that same duality—frilly tops, floral dresses, lace and feathers, paired with baggy jeans, suits and striped shirts. If there's one thing Martens knows about his customers, it's that women are never just one thing—and neither are his clothes. Kovriga captures the same sentiment with his editorial.

"This series is a dialogue between classical perception of the female body and her inside world," he explains.

Peep the photos, below.

Fashion

I am the makeup on your eyes

PRINCESS GOLLUM wears HAT by HELENA EISENHART, SHIRT by CD1974, EARRINGS by KARTHUR all c/o RETAIL PHARMACY, and BRACELET by MARTINE ALI

PRINCESS GOLLUM wears NECKLACE by CHRIS HABANA, SCARF by ALEXANDER WANG, EARRINGS by MARTINE ALI

PRINCESS GOLLUM wears JACKET by ALEXANDER WANG, SHIRT by BLONDITA SHOP, SKIRT by GOOD MANNERS, BOOTS by FERRAGAMO, JEWELRY by MARTINE ALI

PRINCESS GOLLUM wears DRESS and BODYSUIT by RUI, BELT by HOLLYWOOD LOWBROW c/o RETAIL PHARMACY, BOOTS by FERRAGAMO

Fashion

Go-See Situation

Agnès is wearing a top from Peng Tai, a skirt from IRO Paris and boots from GmbH

Moli is wearing a top from Mengche Chiang, a dress from r . l . e with with tights from Wolford, ring from Julia Bartsch and shoes from empty behavior

Chloe is wearing a top from Acne Studios, pants from MM6 with a belt from Julia Bartsch, sunglasses from Uvex and shoes from Proenza Schouler

Glory is wearing a shirt from IRO Paris, pants from peng tai and shoes from Yume Yume

Timothée is wearing a shirt from Paloma Wool, pants from helios Emil and shoes from Yume Yume

Youssef is wearing a shirt from Dries Van Noten, pants, boots and underwear from GmbH, and a vintage hat

Fashion

The People of Lang

April 05, 2024

“The person gives meaning and value to the clothes and not the other way around,” said Peter Do of Helmut Lang SS24, his debut collection for the brand, which has finally hit the shelves.

It is an interesting, if not provocative choice — not only to ont put the garments primary, but to focus not on the “people,” as in a collective, but the “person,” as singular. It's a nod to what the brand has set out to establish since Do’s arrival, framing dressing as a system. It's a democratic formula which feeds off individuality and personal expression, relying upon character as opposed to custom. It’s a manifestation of personality, a farewell to performance. And it leaves us with one question, who is person enough to embody such a humble request?

By Vilda Krog
Photography by Huy Luoung
Styling by Jason Rider

The person in motion, the person of passion, the people passing by on the street who don’t care where you’re going, because they’re on a mission of their own. As Do crafts his garments, likewise do these individuals carve out their paths for themselves. No rules, no guidelines, and if there were — aren’t those meant to be broken? Suggestively, Do broke several rules once he interrogated assumptions around everyday dress back in September last year. Criticism came from more than one place at once. However, by staying true to his vision, he’s already beginning to see the fruits of his labor: his system of dressing, crystallized. It's subtly arrogant, yet widely accessible, dynamic, and utilitarian: it's a blazer, those striped trousers, that turtleneck top, and the traditional flattering denims. In other words, it's your carte blanche, thus let their personality be the color.

Who are they? The campaign, photographed by Huy Luoung and styled by Jason Rider, stars An-My Le, Armina Howanda Mussa, Ash Owens, Connor Sen Warnick, Devin B. Johnson, Eli Ping, Frederique Thiollet, John Yuyi, Kai Avent-Deleon, Linda Rodin, Michael Abel, Mindy Seu, Minjae Kim, Oscar Yi Hou, Sam Stewart, Sophia Roe, Steph Shiu, Yahdon Israel.

Usually, I’d hesitate to spell out more than four names, but in this case, perhaps we should consider them adjectives. Not at the expense of individuality. But rather, the definition of it.