Willy Chavarria Gets UNCUT in FW22 Collection
While sitting in the Prince George Ballroom, before the show began, team members saged the space, performing a indigenous ritual as a means of clearing the energy before the show started. As the room quieted down following the energy and music, strobe lights began to flash signaling that the show was commencing. A bare-chest and well-fitted denim started the train of models and the subversive shapes only progressed. The intention behind the show was clear, uplifting your people, in a sacred space, while showcasing the beauty of your community. His show which was representitive in culture, also was diverse in gender identity, shape, and color.
As more models walked down the runway, his signature oversized silhouettes and a Dickies workwear collaboration made their way to the spotlight. Well-tailored suiting, wide-legged trousers, and strong shoulders were all featured in this collection, revealing the technique of Chavarria’s eye for structure with an intersection of playfulness. Pops of green and blue popped out in a sea of neutral workwear, and a matching trench coat and trouser combination in vivid green with the beautiful cuffs were the stand out piece from this collection. Referencing his last collection, the notion of queer fashion and redefining masculinity in his community still speaks to this current collection. Genderfluid shapes like trenchcoat dresses manifest in that sentiment.
Willy Chavarria showed the audience what being UNCUT means, an authentic expression and coveted freedom that we all crave to feel. He says this collection is about, “American land — all of America.” To Chavarria, the American dream is shown through his interpretations of the blue collar worker, those who embrace divine masculinity, and those who rarely feel seen. It was nothing short of beautiful.
office got to catch up with the casting assistant from the show, Maxwell Vice, and Willy for a all inclusive sit-down interview.
Maxwell Vice— This show was very spiritual compared to Cut Deep SS22, what inspired this energy for your new season?
Willy Chavarria — When I was building this collection, I wanted to create a connection between what we see worn on the streets and our higher consciousness. I thought it was important to show ourselves in a spiritual context to highlight a kind of supreme beauty.
MV— There is all this talk about “Willy Boys,” but a lot of your casting had many different identities. Why is it important to expand the concept of who can wear menswear, and what menswear can be in the modern-day?
WC — I hope to portray a collection of clothing that can be both masculine and feminine in its approach. Masculinity and femininity are wonderful concepts to play with as we dress ourselves. I think, for now, the two ideas exist even for nonbinary or gender non-conforming people. These stereotypes are exploratory and help us to push boundaries. My brand plays with the ideas of heightened masculinity in a way that connects with my queer identity. But I like my Willy Boys to be all genders.
MV— So this show opened with one of the sexiest and flyest Willy walks I’ve seen from your shows, why was Johnny Andon your choice to open?
WC— When Johnny walked into my studio to try on some looks, I was like, "oh." Both me and Marcus, my stylist, were like "oh, damn. This is it. I have never seen a more raw, sexier walk on a runway than his." He summarized a true sex appeal that is rarely revered for what it is.
MV— After working so closely with you this season, I realized you have a personal family relationship with every single team member and model. Why is this your way of working?
WC—The work on this brand is very personal to me. It is so much more than the garments. For the message to work, everyone involved must be part of a family that aligns with the same vision. I love when the studio has a photoshoot happening for a magazine while a style-out is taking place and thirty other things are going on at the same time. I look around, and I see that we are all interconnected, and we are all sharing our talents to raise each other up. It is glorious.
MV — Lastly, who did you want your clothes to impact?
WC— I want to impact the people who have always been left out.
