On AI, Change and the Modern Resonance of Inclusion: GANNI SS24
As the setting exalted the delicate wears on display, Reffstrup’s commitment to the heritage of Danish daywear yielded some solid looks, creating a lightness that has been missing from past seasons. There was a great emphasis on tailoring, admittedly, and a knitted dress that could easily move from day to night, showing a palate cleanser of a collection: textiles got sleeker this season with accentuated waistlines and fitted shoulders, while cut lines on jackets with an origami patterned feel were also standouts, teamed with pieces spliced together suiting checks for a playful twist on tradition. A tradition that finds fresh, inclusive ground, as the brand unveiled an impressive collaboration with model and diversity advocate Paloma Elsesser, who partnered to design a size inclusive range that champions the model's style and influential voice in the world of fashion. “Paloma is a dream girl,” cheerfully notes Reffstrup, explaining that, “Her style is unmatched and serves as such an inspiration to the industry and women around the world.”
After several seasons of frantic prints and bold designs, GANNI’s pared-back neutrals looked new; in particular, the earthy shades. Those came in striped-like cardigans and two-piece sets inspired by textured surfaces and the tactility of trees, taking form in a transparent, hooded dress silhouette adorned with draping on the hip and styled with matching pants. The ability to pull off, say, skin-tight volumes is no mean feat: but the GANNI girl knows a thing or two about marking edgy territory without falling into the banal. Cheeky! But then again, a chic-cheek feel might very well be what Reffstrup does best; there were minis rendered in black, encrusted with shimmering clusters of sequins, alternated by tailored black leather-like dresses with white contrast stitching and sequins bedecking a knitted dress. Also top notch: Western-inspired cowboy boots to bikers and slouchy pointy-toed knee-highs.
The brand is not for style amateurs who want to simply veer towards a minimal edge, but in the more digestible offerings one can find its price (albeit, there’s an extremely ample range to sample from). Perhaps Reffstrup’s smartest idea here was her play on casual femininity, pairing strict suiting, for instance, with a generously provocative, sensual leather accent. All in all, this was a strong and perky collection with a potent taste that had girls dancing to the sound of a bouncy beat, raising a glass to honor positive change. Cheers to that.
