Alexander McQueen SS25

September 30, 2024

The Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2025 show, held in Paris, was a powerful blend of sharp tailoring, ethereal fabrics, and folklore. Under the creative direction of Seán McGirr, the collection took inspiration from the banshee—a haunting figure in Irish mythology—and transformed it into a symbol of feminine strength and resilience.

Twisted British suiting formed the backbone of the collection, with wool mohair and gabardine tailored into angular silhouettes. Ethereal silk chiffon and intricate cobweb lace contrasted the sharpness, giving the collection a haunting, ghost-like quality. The color palette was predominantly ivory, grey, and black, with fiery accents of yellow and orange.

The show space, designed by Tom Scutt, echoed the collection’s themes of tension and duality, blending classicism with modernity. Accessories, from sculptural boots to jewelry inspired by the banshee’s lore, reinforced the mythical narrative.

By Enzo Holdt
Images Courtesy of Alexander McQueen

Fashion

Mr. Saturday SS22: "As She Fixes Her Hair"

September 21, 2021

With an intimate presentation in the Sunken Living Room at Spring Studios, Mr. Saturday designer Joey Gollish uses his beautiful designs to draw attention to the fashion industry’s role and negligence in the climate crisis we face today. The show notes explain that the collection, titled “As She Fixes Her Hair,” (a reference to the song Reptilia by The Strokes, whom Gollish is a diehard fan of), “is a call to action after experiencing a year of catastrophes resulting from climate change, like wildfires and floods.” The designs themselves reflect Gollish’s “walk the walk” attitude, with each piece being crafted from independently sourced up-cycled materials.

The aesthetic of the presentation also reflects these nods to climate change through thoughtful experiments in form and texture. Certain pieces feature fabrics dipped in flame retardant oil to illustrate the idea of an oil spill, while other pieces feature exaggerated trains to connote the concept of overproduction in the fashion industry as a whole. Ultimately, the collection, though stunning, has an eerie inquietude, and through it, the message is conveyed loud and clear: something must be done.

Text by Deren Owji
Photos courtesy of Mr. Saturday

See the full collection below.

Fashion

From Point A to B at TOMBOGO SS22

September 21, 2021

Sitting down a few minutes before the TOMBOGO “Nature is Healing” SS 22 runway show at Spring Studios, It was apparent that the presentation in place would be truly unique. Directly in front stood a structural outline of what almost seemed like a greenhouse/living room hybrid, adorned with a bounty of plants and books. No one could have predicted, however, that within a few minutes, there would be models jetting right in front of my feet on real-life Segways and electric scooters.

But, conceptually, it was brilliant. Los Angeles-based designer Tommy Bogo took his presentation to a thoughtful yet playful level by showcasing his designs in a manner that reflects both the need of utilitarian city-dwellers to get from point A to point B in their busy lives but also their desire to escape the bustle of metropolitan life in creative ways.

Text by Deren Owji
Photos courtesy of TOMBOGO

The collection itself reflects this same duality in its designs. With a vibrant palette and stunning patterns, Bogo navigates the fun in his work-wear-inspired pieces effortlessly. A highlight of the collection was the watering can-shaped handbags in vegan leather, and picnic-like basket weaves. Convertibility was another motif throughout the pieces that beautifully reflected the essence of the show’s concept. Such pieces included convertible cargo pants/shorts, jackets, vests, and lightweight waffle knits.

The show notes elaborate that “‘Nature is Healing’ puts into focus the collective rush to return to normalcy and the ways the world is in a search for healing after the weight and reckonings of the past year… exploring the surreal reality we’re currently in while paying homage to nature with silhouettes that draw inspiration from leaves, trees, and bark, juxtaposed by unconventional and thoughtful materials like recycled synthetic nylons, vegan leather, woven knits, and canvas to create unique pieces.”

See all of the looks from the presentation below.

Fashion

Revamping Eyewear with Spec_ial

September 20, 2021

Aaron Fisher-Cohen, founder and director of creative agency The Bosco, has come forth with a limited edition collection of provocative eyewear, titled Spec_ial. The collection, which was conceived between Edinburgh, UK and New York, focuses on reimagining and elevating eyewear as a whole. With design influences ranging from desert-mirror installations to nightlife and disco balls, the collection consists of two styles made in sustainable microquantities of 200 pairs; each sets the bar high for the future of eyewear design and utility.

The two styles include a co-ed restyling of a classically feminine cat-eye shape with a generously oversized fit designed to highlight and accentuate facial features. The other style, called Seven Round, is a take on a more classic round frame influenced by the dramatic styles of the roaring '20s. All of Spec_ial's frames are entirely crafted from eco-conscious materials, emphasizing the collection's focus on sustainability. In addition, a percentage of the proceeds from collection sales will go directly to local organizations tasked with improving the quality of life of communities with limited access to essential resources. Such organizations include The Door, a New York-based non-profit established with the aim of connecting youth citywide to uplift each other through a stable support network.

Text by Deren Owji
Photos courtesy of Spec_ial

About the collection, founder Fisher-Cohen says, "As sunglasses have become an extension of who I am, I try to discover the worlds where they haven't yet gone. Spec_ial was created to provide the armor that helps you be you, or anyone you want to be."

Shop the collection here.