Anne Isabella’s Intricate Universe
Through trippy graphics and non-traditional, yet inherently graceful silhouettes, Anne Isabella proves that not everything is as it seems. Some things warrant a double take and at times, her pieces even require one, as that second glance affords a universe of intricacy to be explored.
office spoke with Anne Isabella about this collection, the inspiration behind it, and the feelings “Gleam” aims to conjure in wearers, below.
As you are of Danish and French heritage, how do both of those backgrounds mesh together to inform your namesake designs?
Anne Isabella — Growing up I was surrounded by my parents' furniture from Danish designers, such as Wegner and Jacobsen which sparked my first curiosity in design. Fashion, however, has had a stronger place in France in the past, and it’s where I show my collections today. Paris was always the reference point for what fashion could be. The combination of the two worlds led me to a lot of beautiful references and starting points to jump off from. I now work from Berlin and previously studied in London, which was also a huge influence, so it’s hard to always pinpoint what ideas come from where.
Your latest SS23 Collection, “Gleam,” is your fifth to date. What elements from past collections find their way into this one and what surprise elements are new and signify this current chapter for you?
My collections often hint at the 60s and 70s. In this collection, I went back to some core elements, such as my optical knitted shirts and laser-printed denim skirts, and adjusted the techniques. I was going for more of a space-age feeling but combined with ideas of deconstruction. That contrast between the polished space-age aesthetic and a more textured knitwear piece, for example, created something new and interesting.
“Gleam” is informed by geometrical forms, kinetic art, and optical illusion. Beyond the physical elements of the collection — movement, symmetrical stripes, intricate ruching, and more — what is the underlying ethos behind the collection? How do you want people to feel when they see or wear these pieces?
I want people to feel delicate and intimate. Some of the knitted pieces are knitted in a fragile way with a glitter yarn that gives them a bijou quality. I want the wearer to feel vulnerable and strong at the same time. To me, this is what femininity is about — embodying both of those elements.
As prioritizing environmental and social responsibility is a core value for you that carries through each collection, what ethical or sustainable aspects of this collection can you speak to?
My brand is still very small, so I mainly focus on my material sourcing when it comes to sustainability. I work with recycled, organic, and certified materials. I also integrate deadstock materials into my collections, which can be challenging as you have to work with pre-existing fabrics and colors, but it also sometimes injects something unexpected into the collections which can give an interesting result.
What type of person do you envision in “Gleam”? What are they like, what are their interests, and what do they stand for?
They love something precious and are very particular about what they wear, despite always being on the go. They are attracted to the boundaries between fashion and art, and the blurred lines between the past and the present.
