Anonymous Club Breaks all the Rules

February 08, 2024

For Fall 2024 over at Berlin Fashion Week, Shayne Oliver envisioned a modern rule-breaker — if not outwardly subversive, then the type of kid who ditches gym class to have a smoke. “This collection is about an emotive recollection, funny enough, with my original self,” says Oliver, explaining how he wants to celebrate the past, his truth, and form with honesty.

“It’s a new day for me, a chosen path and the realization of the status quo which I was so fond of,” he adds. Oliver expanded on some of the all-German sportiness of the brand’s seasonal offerings, riffing on all manner of function and working largely in jersey and a gamut of off-white separates, layered over loose toppers. The new fall lineup continues to deliver “look-at-me” (or alternately, “take-my-picture”) looks, including asymmetric patent outerwear featuring two-toned hemlines, as well as functional staples that could make the AM to PM (or PM to AM party-to-afters) transition.

By Chidozie Obasi
Photography by Ioannis Papadakis

Elsewhere, there were plenty of his familiar codes and a touch of the utilitarianism he has embraced in recent seasons, traceable in a design language that marries streetwear pieces with color-blocked details. Oliver brought which brought an intriguing mise en place to the mix — the mash to that mish came from the wacky headpieces via trousers that morphed into gowns, a staple that saw interchangeability promoted to new heights, extending to floor-length hoodies which, in turn, brewed evening gowns with a practical verve to match. There were lots and lots of ditzy touchpoints on offerings of irregularly assembled panels that emanated an almost grungy feel and were meticulously designed to do so. “The irregularity of my take across the tailoring realm adds an industrial, chich-meets-club sexiness that epitomizes Berlin’s cultural ground,” says Oliver. There were also some straightforward, to-the-point looks here, but what made this outing work was its atmosphere of rough-and-tumble.

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Total Recall

Born in the Moroccan town of Tétouan and educated in Paris, Khattabi’s upbringing required him to make sense of how the different influences surrounding him could align. In turn, his designs explore the embedded codes and history of his bicultural background. Total Recall addresses this phenomon by including garments meant to reflect adaptation and transformation. Skirts made of tire covers and motorcyle tarpaulins refashioned into dresses are scattered across the collection, conveying notions of displacement. Blending these elements adds an industrial touch to the pieces while still keeping a sense of movement.

From sweatpants infused with polka dots to nostaglic slogans and banner display, the ensembles symbolize hidden identities and memories. Giving us a glimpse into his own memories, Khattabi's work evokes affection for the past. It's a nod to the interconnectedness of culture and how we interact with its complexitites creatively. View the collection below.