Balenciaga Spring 24: A Time-Lapse through Paris Streets

May 31, 2023

A time-lapse video from a birds-eye view observed passersby as they took in the scenery of Paris — the pedestrians were clothed in everyday articles from Balenciaga’s latest Spring ‘24 collection. From grocery shoppers to package couriers, the collection is similar to previous Balenciaga shows, with sudden rain on an otherwise sunny day.

Photographed by Mau Morgó in real time, the five-minute recording captured the movement outside the location of Balenciaga’s beginnings in 1937 Paris. Referred to as “Le Dix” for Cristóbal Balenciaga, 10 Avenue George V is the front door the models held a key to throughout the Capital B show. They exited from French wooden doors, swept into the circadian rhythm of the wet sidewalk.

The Spring ‘24 collection, composed of two chapters, is both the refined wardrobe essentials of Garde-Robe and ready-to-wear looks fit for the season. Compared to previous Demna shows, Spring ‘24 has a more pedestrian perspective—and here’s why.

Text by India Espy-Jones
Images courtesy of Balenciaga

[Balenciaga Spring 2024]

Demna’s response to the Winter ‘23 collection explained his direction for the latest season. “I have decided to go back to my roots in fashion as well as to the roots of Balenciaga,“ Demna said. “The provocative aspect of my work often got misinterpreted and misunderstood, and I no longer feel like applying it to my designs.”

“To make quality clothes” is the intention behind the new, classic version of Demna-directed Balenciaga. A shift in creative direction we’ve seen since his first collection after the ad controversy, the catalyst to Demna's return to the roots of the House. Which is why his latest shows presented clothing you have seen before — on purpose. For the Winter '23 collection, guests received an invitation by mail of the pattern for a regular fit blazer, an introduction into a Balenciaga reset as Demna reverted back to the foundation of Balenciaga — suiting.

Unlike the extra-large blazers leading Winter '23, the latest collection featured more oversized coats. In Spring '24, for example, the oversized suiting in look 14 is similar to most looks in the previous Winter 23 collection. However, the suiting is outweighed by extra-long coats — reference look 15, 16, and 18 — throughout the 44-look Spring collection for a far less formal, more everyday look.

[Balenciaga Winter 2023]

The last time Demna presented the Garde-Robe line at a show was on the trading floor of the New York Stock Exchange—Spring ‘23. A collection leading the campaign which fell into controversy, then resulted in a more muted following three collections. Fetish bodysuits concealed the models’ identities with Garde-Robe, Evening Wear, and Balenciaga / Adidas layered over full-body latex.

However, the presentation of Garde-Robe classics — Dresses, Blazers, Coats — in Spring ‘23 is far more provocative than the latest collection. The Garde-Robe line, in Spring ‘24, once presented over latex, is now revealed in a more family-friendly, everyday context. Demna removed the noisy latex from Spring ‘23, with his latest collection instead “as ordinary an act as retrieving a coin from the pavement or zooming by on a skateboard.”

Demna directs you to take a look inside your personal wardrobe and count the foundational, must-have pieces for your daily errands. For Balenciaga, they would open their closet to a wide selection of extra-large blazers, pumps, and ultra-tight zip-ups — ”styled for a day-to-day” — at least for the season.

[Balenciaga Spring 2023]

Compared to Demna’s latest Spring ‘24 collection, the Balenciaga 50th Couture collection had a similar pedestrian take — Zip-Up Hoodies, Japanese Denim, Sunglasses — but with House icons like the Domed Hat. However, the looks for Spring ‘24 were more casual than couture (obviously!) with bath towels wrapped at the waist — maybe, to dry your hair from sudden downpour just as in the latest show. Parkas, Carcoats, and Puffers borrowed swing-back silhouettes from Couture 50, with a new 24/7 Bag, an everyday bag for a quick run to the supermarket.

The ultra-casual pedestrian look of Spring ‘24 ended with lightweight ball gowns for added mobility — what would Balenciaga be without gowns? — to remind viewers of who Balenciaga is. Even when the collection is just a real time observation of city movement, Demna will always be Balenciaga with a Capital B.

[Balenciaga 50th Couture]

Fashion

Coco Cultr Drops a New Line of Jersey Dresses

October 24, 2024

There’s something inherently demanding about transforming traditional silhouettes into new ones. Jesa Chiro proves she’s up to the challenge with her new collection of vintage basketball jerseys that have been refashioned into mini dresses. This modernization of classic pieces is central to Chiro’s brand, COCO CULTR. Founded in 2020, the brand is marked by its dedication to handmade garments, countering the fast-paced industry it inhabits. Chiro's most recent drop is a fresh take on femininity, taking stereotypically masculine pieces and crafting them to fit a more feminine audience. All the while, making more room for women to participate in streetwear culture.

Text by Abby Dillingham
Photography by Liv Solomon
Creative direction by Sarah Daoui and Jesa Chiro
Designed and styled by Jesa Chiro
Models Emily Hime, Celeste Luz, Jade Croo, Alissa Sugawara, Jordan Ford, Sarah Daoui

This collection in particular was inspired by a 1995 runway show by African designer Lamine Kouyaté, who collaborated with Puma for his brand Xuly-Bët. He created a collection of jerseys using all recycled materials. "Kouyaté’s words about reimagining synthetic materials that aren’t biodegradable struck me: 'These are modern fabrics... you could reinvent them instead of letting them rot,'" Chiro reflects.

By turning basketball jerseys into dresses, Chiro challenges our understanding of streetwear by taking it out of its stereotypical context. The dresses fuse elements of Black culture, sportswear, and femininity. This combination has resulted in innovative clothing that pulls from nostalgia while bringing in a contemporary twist. She recently debuted the dresses at Procell, a downtown vintage curator and storefront.

Fashion

Colin Jones for SRVC SS25

October 24, 2024

Does a woman's vulnerability signify a lack of strength? Ricky Harriot, creative director of SRVC, would argue otherwise. The SRVC SS25 collection hinges on the idea that these two forces can coexist in harmony. Colin Jones, American model and it-girl, serves as the face of Impression, a collection designed for the modern woman.

The SS25 lookbook, captured by Tom Blesch, presents an invitation to question preconceived ideas about strength. Harriot reinterprets staples like the ribbed tank and corset, blending timelessness with a futuristic edge. This thoughtful deconstruction provides wearers the freedom to adapt the pieces to their lives — promoting self-styling as a form of personal expression and empowerment.

By Abby Dillingham
Photography by Tom Blesch, styled by Dogukan Nesanir

Anchored in emotional resonance, the collection draws from utilitarian and protective elements, merging them with soft, flowing fabrics that speak to the complexity of feminine strength. By refusing to confine itself within traditional gender expressions, SRVC champions a woman who is unapologetically both strong and vulnerable, urging her to embrace every facet of her identity. Preview the lookbook below.

Fashion

It All Starts with the Feet

October 23, 2024

We hit the road with APICCAPS, the Portuguese Footwear Association, for an adventure that took us deep into Portugal’s fashion scene. From Porto’s historic streets and factories to the dynamic runways of ModaLisboa in Lisbon, we got an up-close look at the creativity and craftsmanship behind modern Portuguese design.

Our host shone as a true superstar of the trip, Paulo Gonçalves — Director of Communications for APICCAPS and the mastermind behind Portuguese Soul print magazine. He made sure we didn’t miss a beat, From the factory visits to the sleek, sustainable designs at Lemon Jelly to the handmade luxury of Carlos Santos Factory, and even a dinner with the celebrated shoe Designer and APICCAPS president Luís Onofre, we saw it all. The trip wasn’t just about shoes though; it was about everything that makes Portugal special — great food, amazing wine, and the stories of the people driving the industry forward.

Text and photos by Mitchell Connell

APICCAPS presentation at Modalisboa

At the Portuguese Footwear Technological Center (CTCP), we saw how tradition blends with cutting-edge tech. And, of course, we couldn’t miss the shows at ModaLisboa, where emerging Portuguese designers are taking the spotlight. There was even time to squeeze in a few after-parties.

As we left Lisbon’s sun-soaked streets, it was clear: Portugal is no longer fashion’s best-kept secret. With its rich heritage and creative visionaries, this small country is stepping into the global spotlight — and office Magazine was there to witness it. We learned that “Made in Portugal" isn’t just a stamp; it’s a mark of quality, tradition and innovation.

Between the factory tours and ModaLisboa, we got a full view of both sides of the industry — and we left wanting to learn even more from our host.

Paulo Gonçalves

Paulo, so great to chat up with you after such an amazing trip. First off, congratulations on launching the new cover of Portuguese Soul and thank you for such an unforgettable experience. From the factories to the runways there was a lot to take in. Is there a personal highlight or moment that sticks out to you either at ModaLisboa or in Porto?

Paulo Gonçalves— There were so many moments. The anxiety of meeting a new group. The moments of bonding. The first dinner together. The visit to the factories and the Technological Center. The Portuguese Soul presentation at ModaLisboa. The Luís Onofre fashion show. Being able to present the cities of Porto and Lisbon through my eyes. The farewell.

I feel that the mission was accomplished. The work was productive. There were many shared laughs. And I feel like I’ve gained friends for life.

As Director of Communications for APICCAPS, Why did you find it so important to start the magazine?

PG— For a long time, I felt there was a big gap between the intrinsic quality of Portuguese footwear and the global awareness of our country. The fact that people didn't know us devalued our product.

Back in 2010, I launched a very controversial, yet impactful campaign called ‘Portuguese Shoes: The Sexiest Industry in Europe’. That jumpstarted the change in our image. Portuguese Soul emerged shortly after -it was our contribution to improving Portugal's image worldwide. That's why the magazine is distributed in 120 countries. It is also a testament of love for Portuguese fashion and footwear, as well as a showcase of the talent that exists in my country.

Where is your happy place in Portugal?

PG— I travel a lot, so I would say home. But there is a unique place in Porto, the lighthouse that separates the Douro River from the Atlantic Ocean.

During the trip, it was clear that sustainability is becoming a big part of Portugal’s fashion DNA. Do you think this will become the country’s key advantage?

PG— Every year, 22 billion pairs of shoes are produced worldwide, with 88% of them made in Asia. I don’t think that’s reasonable or sustainable. I believe there is room in the market for a small producer that focuses on quality at fair prices.

For this reason, we are going to invest 600 million euros by the end of this decade. It’s our biggest investment ever and a strong show of confidence in the future.

Why do you continue to do a print magazine in 2024?

PG— Because it makes sense. I believe we still have much to prove and that we must constantly reinvent ourselves. I believe we can be leaders, not followers.

Next year, the magazine will celebrate its 15th anniversary. We want to do even better. More than 50 professionals work with us. It's a big responsibility.

Do you have a favorite Portuguese dish?

PG— Without a doubt, codfish. Accompanied by a good white wine, whether from Douro, Dão, or Alentejo.

You’ve been a part of APICCAPS for over two decades now. What has kept you there and passionate for so long?

PG— I am a passionate person who loves fashion and shoes. I enjoy socializing, discovering new cultures, and having the opportunity to meet incredible people. I feel like I’ve dedicated my life to the footwear sector, and I’ve never regretted it. I have given everything to this industry and to APICCAPS but I’ve also received a lot in return and have been able to explore the rest of the world.

What role do you think Portuguese designers play in shaping the global fashion landscape?

PG— It’s a fundamental vision. While companies have the technology and know-how accumulated over generations, designers bring a fresh, young, and bold perspective to the market.

I am a strong advocate for creative partnerships between designers and the industry. That’s why we invest in being present at ModaLisboa, as well as at other important fashion weeks like London, Paris, and New York.

Away from Sustainability. What’s going to be a big innovation that will change the game for Portuguese fashion?

PG— Productive innovation, development capacity, and a quick response to the market are some of the main competitive arguments of Portuguese companies.

What’s your most prized fashion possession?

PG— Shoes. Always shoes. And in this chapter, I am privileged. I have the best of all. The Portuguese.

If you could feature anyone past or present in Portuguese Soul, who would it be?

PG— We’ve had the opportunity to showcase the greatest Portuguese talents in Portuguese Soul and there’s always an opportunity to discover more. From music to theater, and across fashion in general, a new generation of great value is emerging in the country. Portuguese Soul will always provide a stage for all these young people who are full of dreams.

Before we wrap this up. What’s next for you, APICCAPS, and the magazine?

PG— I want to be able to maintain the same emotional wavelength in life, at APICCAPS, in the magazine, in everything I do. I fall in love again every day with those around me and with what I do. Being able to enjoy life surrounded by good people and good energy is a privilege I will do my best to preserve.