Burberry x Opening Ceremony

Y/PROJECT Nods To Celebrity and Brand Codes for FW24

Of course, it’s not actually that simple. Citing uncertain times and financial strategy, the team voiced what many emerging and mid-level brands have shared in recent years. “Putting on a runway show entails significant costs, all for a brief 15-minute viewing experience,” industry commentator and critic Hunter Shires explains. “This reflects the broader trend of brands prioritizing cost-effective ways to showcase their collections, especially when they have other houses on their hands.”

Y/PROJECT’s latest work spellbinds beyond the need for a Paris catwalk – from invitingly oversize silhouettes in a grab-bag of denim and cargo, to a distressed denim maxi-dress that dares to drape in a dramatically tumbling fashion. Their expertise in shoes comes to the forefront with the release of the Y/PROJECT x Salomon Speedcross 3, timed with the launch of the FW24 collection. Boots in the familiar scrunch contour reappear, this time in gray shearling and jet-black leather with a bright sheen.

Avid murder mystery readers will appreciate the references to Umberto Eco’s The Name of the Rose. It's a moody, Middle Ages-timed work that is satisfyingly in line with the other influence Marten named: pleurants (that’s “weepers” to you), sculpted medieval figures representing mourners. Ashy tones and weighty hoods dotted on several looks visualize these references.

Where there's new material to subvert, splashy talent to cast, and the will to create originality in a landscape of conglomeration and fast fashion, Y/PROJECT will find a way. There was a narrow window of questioning that could have signaled something dire, but instead it appears the brand will close this season with a playful, recommitted wink, and the promise of something indestructible in the future.

Fashion

Celebrating HUGO Blue with Swae Lee

March 11, 2024

Against the backdrop of Berlin, HUGO hosted a warehouse party last week to mark the debut of the HUGO Blue line. Targeting its Gen-Z audience, the capsule collection comprises laid-back wardrobe staples, including t-shirts, hoodies, baggy jeans, denim jackets, and shorts, all featuring HUGO’s signature shade of blue.

HUGO Creative Director Marco Falcioni developed the line with a certain lifestyle in mind. For him, “it’s not about following fashion,” imagining someone “who goes to work and clubbing in the same outfit just because.” The capsule's appeal lies in its denim essentials, ranging from t-shirts and hoodies with HUGO splattered across them to baggy pants and trousers with the four letters printed boldly across the front of bottoms.

More than 1,000 guests from HUGO’s global community filled the venue, immersed in a sea of blue: from the lights and cocktails to a central cage tower with LED screens and mini-rooms showcasing the collection.

Photography courtesy of HUGO

Inside, guests could personalize their HUGO Blue attire, with local artists Max Teutsch and Rafaella Braga offering customization options such as piercings, rings, or paint streaks. Prominent gamers like Clix and Chad Epps and stars from HUGO Blue's inaugural campaign, German rapper Reezy and British actor Jasmine Jobson, also joined in on the fun.

DJ Adam Port played from the cage tower, where Swae Lee later performed for the crowd, wearing HUGO Blue. Lee swung and jumped around, playing hit after hit from “Come Get Her” to “Sunflower" igniting dance circles among singing fans and a burgeoning crowd of HUGO influencers taking videos and sharing the moment, expanding its reach beyond the confines of the venue.

For Falcioni, bridging the interactive physical experience to the digital was central to tapping into this younger generation less afraid of technology and the unknown. With the launch came the reveal of PLANET HUGO, a virtual realm on ROBLOX (the leading metaverse ecosystem today), comprised of two 3D environments that replicate the physical event space. In the HUGO HANGOUT and HUGO FASHION MATCH, users can complete obstacles, and dress their avatars (and other user's) in digital wearables.

Fashion

Frieze LA: Stone Island's "Selected Works '982-'024" Takes Center Stage

We caught up with the man front and centre of it all Carlo Rivetti, President of Stone Island, who has played a significant role in the success and development of the company.

What were your thoughts when walking around the exhibition in LA this week and seeing it come together in person?

Carlo Rivetti — Entering the exhibition fills me with pride. Every piece I encounter holds significance in relation to our research and the memories from the initial 42 years.

How do you think this exhibition contributes to the broader understanding and appreciation of Stone Island's product and History?

CR — In the past few days, I observed numerous visitors entering the exhibition, surprised at the product innovations that were on display. I was very delighted that all the guests were all quite curious, taking the time to read captions carefully and posing additional questions to our staff about the pieces. My feeling is that visitors have become fascinated by our history and now possess more insights to understand and appreciate Stone Island.

What significance does this exhibition hold to you and Stone Island?

CR — The exhibition makes me very proud and emotional. It is a selection among more than 30.000 garments of our archive and to be able to show them in North America is an important achievement to me.

Were there any specific pieces from the 42 archival items that stood out to you, and if so, why?

CR — It is always hard to choose! I can tell you two pieces that are opposite and still represent the brand well:

The Hand-Painted Camouflage jacket undergoes an artisanal process inspired by military techniques aiming to replicate their uniforms. The field jacket is initially garment-dyed in black, then part of the jacket is corroded, and ultimately, it is meticulously hand-painted, making each piece unique.

While the Pure Metal Shell jacket was such an innovative feat in technology. We conducted extensive research on metals to create this beautiful and remarkable jacket, showcased at the Centre Pompidou in Paris.

In your opinion, what distinguishes Stone Island's approach to fashion and design, as showcased in the exhibition?

CR — It's the ongoing and thorough investigation into the transformation and evolution of fibers and fabrics. Our exclusive ability to intervene on the finished garment through continuous dyeing experiments is a key aspect. This approach has unveiled materials and production techniques previously unused in the clothing industry, resulting in Stone Island developing over 60,000 unique dye recipes.

Before our time was up on the west coast and following our chat with Carlo, we talked to Stone Island Archivist and Creative Consultant Arco Maher to get his take on such a big moment.

Can you share your initial reactions upon learning about Stone Island's first-ever major US archival exhibition and it being at Frieze Los Angeles?

Arco Maher — A long time coming! Pure excitement and just a momentous occasion for Stone Island. It's the perfect opportunity for the US audience to connect with Stone on a deeper level to appreciate how impressive the archive is and learn about the extensive research and innovation behind the brand. The partnership with Frieze speaks volumes to how Stone pieces can be viewed as wearable art.

As a dedicated Stone Island collector, what significance does this exhibition hold for you personally?

AM — The chronological walk through of Stone Island pieces was super cool to see with 42 archival pieces displayed at the opening section; an iconic piece from each year the brand has been in existence. Many of the jackets displayed crossover with pieces in my own archive collection… but it does pain me to admit I am missing a handful of special items so there was a sense of envy too! Witnessing all these remarkable creations alongside one another is a real moment to cherish.

Were there any specific pieces from the 42 archival items that stood out to you, and if so, why?

AM — The SS 1988 Pink Raso Gommato Black Cover jacket; commonly referred to as the “Helicopter Visor” Jacket is a masterpiece. It features a removable visor that folds away into the collar reminiscent of military dust goggles. Supreme referenced this model in the 2014 collaboration with Stone labelling it the “Nero” jacket - this piece also featured in the exhibition with both pieces being incredibly sought after.

I always love seeing the Paul Harvey designed AW 2000 Kevlar Jacket… a material no one had previously been able to garment dye but as always Stone Island cracked the code and completed the challenge. As Andrea Moro (head of product design at SI) says, as soon as there’s an impossible task (Carlo Rivetti's blue eyes sparkle) the mission is to make it possible.

How do you think this exhibition contributes to the broader understanding and appreciation of Stone Island's product and history?

AM — The LAB LIFE division in this exhibition was a perfect tool for storytelling to highlight both the design aspect of Stone Island but most importantly speak to the worldwide community that has adopted the brand as their own. My good friend Avi Gold’s Better Gift Shop space, the masterpiece film directed by Jeremy Elkin’s and the SS2024 campaign shots highlighted how community is really at the heart of Stone Island. It’s something that’s engrained in UK/EU history through many subcultures over years but this exhibition educated an exciting new wave of Stone Island devotees from the Americas.

Were there any surprises or discoveries for you during the exhibition, considering your extensive knowledge of Stone Island's collections?

AM — My Stone Island knowledge is pretty encyclopedic so no suprises, although it was incredible to see the Shadow Project collection displayed in its entirety from 2008 through to 2021; designed by Errolson Hugh. There was actually a number of pieces I had completely forgotten about! I think however deep your knowledge of the brand runs; it’s difficult to leave the exhibition space without feeling very inspired.

In your opinion, what distinguishes Stone Island's approach to fashion and design, as showcased in the exhibition?

AM — An appetite for research, curiosity and a certain philosophy is the driving force behind Stone Island design. We saw countless examples of archive pieces where a material was introduced that the fashion world had never seen before. Most notably the Monofilament mesh fabric; typically seen in the world of water filtering systems or the Tela Stella textile with its original use being a tarpaulin used on the top of military trucks. It’s really apparent after experiencing the pieces in the exhibition that it’s very hard to pigeonhole Stone Island or compare it to other brands as it’s very much exists in its lane!

Any big takeaways from your time at Frieze this week?

AM — Henry Taylor, Javier Ramirez & James Perkins works were all big standouts to me! And away from Frieze; the Luna Luna exhibition was a highlight!