With its focus on balance and longevity, BY:ERA positions skincare as an ongoing dialogue with time, one that values patience, consistency, and clinical intelligence over quick fixes.
What are your first memories in the salon?
Well, I started cutting hair at home. After a few months, my mom kicked me out because she had carpet in the house and was tired of the mess. I ended up meeting a very funky guy in Holland called Leo Spindellar, and he was kind of a jet-set hairstylist in Holland that did pop singers and stuff like that. He was very into nightlife so he would show up late for work sometimes, and one day he showed up so late he gave me a pair of scissors to start cutting his client, and that’s basically how I got started in the salon. I was there for three weeks and then I became a haircutter.
As one of the most renowned hairstylists in the world, do your clients give you free rein over their hair?
Sometimes, I would say they trust me. My approach to hair is not so much about doing intensive hairstyles or things like that, but more treating people with their hair in a way. I like to make people feel like they have character through their hair.
How has styling hair influenced your career as a fashion designer? Are there lessons/values you have carried over into your more recent projects?
Of course. I’ve been around fashion shows and worked with the best stylists and designers in the world. I’ve seen them all work on branding themselves so even though you’re just doing the hair, you’re kind of like a child in that you’re absorbing the creative environment. It feels like my whole life has kind of been like working and learning in the higher academies of fashion.
When exactly did you decide that you wanted to start creating and building your luxury streetwear label, Wardements? Can you describe a specific moment?
Well, it was a funny coincidence of things because I basically already made clothes at a very young age—I actually made clothes before I cut hair. Throughout my whole career, I made some funny t-shirts and stuff like that for myself and my friends, and then it turned into making some really funny stuff that would make everybody laugh on set. Wardements is widely known for its humorous takes on popular culture.
Why is it important for you to incorporate humor into your work as a designer?
Basically, it all came together with those funny tees that I made for myself. At one point in 2017, I made a couple of sweaters for myself that some models on set started asking me for, like Gigi Hadid, for example, and some photographers- they wanted these sweaters. So I was like, okay, and then I made twelve that I gave away as a gift to my colleagues or clients that always laughed at them… not really planning on making a brand at all. Then, when those were given out several of them ended up on the internet and Instagram and on my wall, friends’ walls, and then I got this spontaneous reaction. At that time, we had no plan to become a brand or anything. I started seeing my sweaters all over the set and on fake billboards in Tokyo that a fanbase made. One day, a request came in on my DM’s for sweaters that basically I was ignoring because I had no production or plans to be a brand. After a few months, I went through the DM’s and there were over 250 requests for sweaters. That’s basically how we started. Your label recently launched a collaboration with Orange Babies, an organization that helps mothers and children fight against HIV in Africa.
How did you come about this project? Why did you choose to partner with Orange Babies specifically?
Well, Orange Babies are celebrating its 20th year anniversary this year, and I was already there with the very first fashion show they decided to do. Because in the very early stages it was just very few hair, makeup artists, and set designers from Holland coming together to do this show, we managed to pull it together pretty well! We managed to get people like Mario Testino and a few big-time models to help us. The tickets for this show went to the babies. Now, going forward a few years, the soccer wives from some famous soccer players in Holland got involved, which created a lot of publicity and donations started coming in. By putting up a few hoodies—I don’t make a single cent from the hoodies, all the proceeds go to Africa—I’ve probably touched the lives of 850 somewhat children with the proceeds of the signed hoodies, which isn’t a huge number, but every life matters! Many of the big-time models like Christy and Cindy and Gigi started signing the hoodies and putting it on their feeds, and this is how Orange Babies has attracted renewed focus from the outside. We want to generate publicity, really just any awareness we can get. I’ve got big plans for this.
What’s your mantra (if you have one)?
Oh, I never really needed one it seems! Every day I wake up ready to get started on whatever the day brings. I can’t really work very well around people that have a lot of pretenses, that’s not really me. Instead of trying to make all these achievements on my own, I like to pool the achievements together—it’s the bigger picture that counts for me. I don’t want to cut everybody's hair, I just want to create one amazing haircut that inspires everyone to go out and do it. I just want to be generous with my talents and gifts.
What’s one beauty product you never leave the house without?
I have this oil that I put that on my face every day after or before I shave. It’s the most beautiful oil I’ve ever found. It’s the True Botanicals Renew Pure Radiance Oil. You only need a few drops. I put it on my face before I shave and I’ve never had a shaving rash since I started using it. I don’t need any other moisturizer. I put it on right after the shower when my skin is still wet.
What’s in this season in terms of hair color?
There is a resurgence of brighter colors, like in the 90s- we had those East Village kinds of grungy people in fashion with dark blues and orange hair and pink hair. Then it kind of disappeared but it seems like multiple hair stylists brought this back into the industry. I guess it’s inspired by pop music artists. However, I think what’s really important is that people make sure their hair stays on their heads! Do these trends, do these hair colors, but make sure it’s done in a gentle way—add conditioners and masks, just make the process of hair dying as gentle as possible.
Name a hair trend that you hope never comes back.
All those Marie Antoinette styles and all the wigs. I mean, I’m very good at wigs and I do it when people ask- all the freaky stuff, too. But I like trying to make people’s own hair look spectacular. It’s more that I try to make the people look incredible, rather than just their hair... their hair travels along, but I’m more into character than style if you know what I mean. In the younger years of my career, I did more creative things- more arts-and-crafty hair. But I’ve learned to fine-tune my hairstyling in that less is more. A good cut can change your life. My favorite style would be a cut that flatters a person’s natural state.
Who cuts your hair?
Anyone. I’ve had models cut it, kids cut it, babies cut it, assistants cut it. It really doesn’t matter everyone's had a hand in my hair. That’s how I baptize people, pretty much (laughs.)
Check out the office beauty exclusive interview with Stoll and peak his collection below.
Tell me a bit about your BIZAR 2019 Collection: “School Day?”
“School Day” was heavily influenced by both components of school; Teachers & Students. In the collection, there are a variety of upcycled dress shirts, blazers, and vests, representing the teachers. On the other side, there is lots of repurposed school and sports t-shirts and hoodies. All of the school shirts are Western New York or Buffalo high school and colleges.
Why “School Day?”
I chose “School Day” because I wanted to show my new appreciation and influence of Western New York youth as a whole. Youth development all starts with school. I also chose “School Day” mainly to demonstrate the show being the last day of school; the start of summer and graduation.
What draws you to Buffalo, New York?
I was born in Buffalo and then moved to a small village twenty minutes away from Buffalo at a young age. Western New York as a whole is strange. Going from a powerful industrial capital in the early 20th century to a forgotten, unnoticed mysterious city, is quite a shift. It’s home to me. It’s special to me. I am proud that I grew up in Western New York. Not many can say that. It gives me hope and inspiration doing what I do and coming from where I come from.
What inspires you?
There are many actions and people that inspire me as a person. One would be Jim Henson. I started drawing at a very young age. I kept drawing and later noticed a lot of my drawings were all monsters that were inspired by Henson’s puppets. Jim Henson created my two favorite movies of all time. The Labyrinth and The Dark Crystal. His idea of fantasy and bizarre creatures applying to a child is a very unique objective to me. It inspired me to get weird with everything I do, especially while creating.
Tell me a story about yourself.
So when I was seven years old, I got into a sledding accident in the winter. I lost my tooth and then had a fake tooth for a while until 2018. The dentist insisted I needed a new appliance that would require braces for a year and then a denture/retainer appliance that would permanently be in my mouth for two years. I had it in for two weeks, but then decided I didn’t want it in my mouth anymore. Once that happened I got hooked for a job, then I became a model.
Head to toe, what color?
Head to toe: pickle green, with a touch of brown.
In some of your photos, there are models dressed in your collection, walking through a restaurant, Can you talk a little bit about that event?
The show location was at Prima Pizza, an old fashioned 1970s style family-owned pizzeria in the heart of downtown Buffalo.I chose a pizza shop because I have had a lot of memories going to get pizza with my friends after school. After the show there was a pizza party and pop up shop, symbolizing a graduation party. Also, Buffalo is very well known for pizza and wings, the correlation of the location and the food inspired me to do it there.
Describe your aesthetic.
If I had to describe my aesthetic, it would consist of vintage action figures, old football cards, old circus newspaper articles, monsters, such as Dracula, Frankenstein, and Creature of The Black Lagoon. Also, human figures that are considered oddities, such as Schlitzie.
Do you have any tattoos?
I have four tattoos. Three of them are stick and poke and one of them was done with a tattoo gun. On my right wrist I have the words “BIZAR” and an inch and a half above it I have the same word “BIZAR.” These words are different sizes and slightly different fonts, showing evolution and progression within myself and my creations. On my left upper arm I have a stick and poke, that reads “PICKLE,” in the same font as the rest of my tattoos. This emphasizes and demonstrates my love for pickles. Ever since I was a young kid I loved eating pickles. I am literally eating pickles as I’m typing this on the plane. The other word is “GARGOYLE,” which shows my love for strange creatures.
It’s 11:11 pm on a Saturday night, Where would we find you?
On a Saturday night at 11:11 PM you will find Audi either at my grandmother's house sewing or in my friend's recording studio in Buffalo. I rarely will be at my house on that day and time. Also at this time of night, I am craving a pickle. So, you might catch me on the street going to retrieve pickles for my pickle desires.
Milk before the cereal, or cereal before milk?
Definitely cereal before the milk.
What type of cereal would you be?
If I was a cereal I would be Frosted Mini-Wheats, the strawberry flavor. I say this because I feel like I am becoming more of a modest person, as in, I’m enjoying the simple things in life more. Less Is More. At the same time, I do have a uniqueness and a boldness with that simplicity, so that justifies the strawberry. Also, I’m cute and so are strawberries.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years?
In five years, I see myself producing small quantities of my garments on a more manufactured level, rather than up cycling. Also, hopefully, I will be in a movie by then. That’s a big goal of mine that not many know. In addition to all of this, I see myself possibly moving out of Buffalo to New York or Paris.
What do you see for the future of BIZAR 2019 Collection: “School Day?”
The only thing I can really say I see for the future of this collection “School Day” is the word progression. This was my first show and was a tremendous learning experience for myself and others. Now I know what to do differently for future shows. I see this collection as a memorable marking point in my life, that justifies my progression and love I have for the city and the youth that live in it.
We sat down with Ali to talk about her role models and, now, her role as a model. Check out more below.
How and when did you get into art?
I’ve been interested in art since I was a child. I drew on everything I could, even one of the walls of my house. Art fascinates me, it teaches me how to be patient with myself and is very soothing.
When did you begin painting works on your face? Did you start with makeup?
I started when I was about four years old, smearing on my mother’s MAC lipstick all over my face before I went out. I started to do “traditional” makeup in the summer of 2018. I would watch Nikki Tutorials and try to mimic what she was doing, with my limited items. I, being a beginner, was not good at it, and therefore decided to turn makeup into art. I bought a Mehron Makeup face palette and never looked back.
What song is at the top of your playlist right now?
This is the hardest question yet. “Like Mariah” by HOMESHAKE.
What to you is the importance of more inclusion of black people, through models, wider shade offerings and space for black-owned products and lines, in the beauty industry? When you think of the word beauty what do you see?
For me, as a child, I saw a white girl or me with straight flowing hair. I want to show that the word beauty applies to everyone, but my community is the last race to know of its beauty and strength. I believe that we are JUST now starting to love ourselves! I want black children to look at me and feel beautiful. I want black children to look at me and feel inspired to create their own businesses, and feel like they can become models, or even run for president! It is so important for ALL types of black people to be represented in the beauty industry because when people can look at themselves to feel beautiful, they have someone who looks just like them to remind them.
Who were some of the black women in media who inspired you growing up? And who inspires you now?
Beyonce. Beyonce was my childhood. I feel like I learned how to feel and be confident because of her. She was and still is a black woman breaking boundaries. Today, my mom inspires me. She is a superwoman, there is nothing she can’t do. My mom does everything in her power to make sure I am both safe and happy. She is determined and hardworking. I want to be like her when I grow up.
Who is your favorite artist?
Vincent VanGogh is a huge inspiration to me. Art was his only friend. Art helped him feel happy and like he was a part of society. Art helped me in more ways than I imagined and because of him, I feel like I can create anything.
What is your favorite beauty product?
Colorpop So Juicy Lipgloss in the shade “Princess Cut.” Couldn’t catch me without it.
Face paint brand of choice?
Mehron is my holy grail!
How and why do you use Instagram as a platform to represent black beauty?
Everyone has Instagram. It is the way people interact with each other. People not only use it to keep up with friends and to look at dog videos, but they also look to find inspiration. I use to inspire my race. I post a selfie of me with a makeup look that I created, simple right? But in reality, I did more than that. I gave someone confidence, hope, and understanding of beauty. I let someone in the black community know that they are limitless.
How has social media helped you present yourself and your work?
It is my portfolio. All my work is right there for anyone to look at. I don’t have to create my own website, fill out a resume or anything. All my talented is right there to be reviewed.
What do you do to keep your canvas' (face) fresh?
I start by using Earth Girl Natural’s ‘Oil Cleanser’. I rub it into my face and then press a hot towel up against my face. I wipe it off and then go in with their ‘Anti-Aging Eye Serum’. Next, I go in with Go-To’s ‘Face Hero’ face oil. For sunscreen, I use Earth Girl Natural’s ‘Everyday SunCare Lotion’. Lastly, I use Go-To’s ‘Very Useful Face Cream’!
If you could recreate any famous painting on your face, which one would you choose?
Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel Ceiling.
Which look from your Instagram page represents your mood right now?
My “Babushka” look. We love a classy look.
What other art forms do you want to explore?
I really would love to learn how to play the harp!
