CELINE FW24: Slimane's Symphonie Fantastique

There’s something about male teen energy which functions for Slimane as the gift that keeps on giving. It's a feverish fascination. Likewise the young, passionate Berlioz score runs through the collection’s scenery and seams. However, the “California Teen Cowboy” appears ostensibly more mature than Slimane’s previous “Cosmic Cruiser” and those affected by the “Paris Syndrome” for his 25th anniversary at The Palace. The chokers, slouchy parkas, and snake prints are gone. Nobody’s riding a motorcycle or crawling through the club floor. Winter '23 is silent, sleek, and sophisticated. Slimane focuses less on sex and more on the privilege of seduction.

The Cowboy marks the return of tailoring, at least in Slimane’s psychedelic world. He wears frock coats, three-button suits, and embroidered waistcoats in silk, satin and cashmere. And let’s not forget the majestic capes, catching the wind as he marches determinedly between the Mojave mountains. The Cowboy travels in helicopters, cruises in Cadillacs, and tours on horseback. He's on a journey, yet never are we shown where The Cowboy is going, and we know little about where he has been. But we know he’s no longer wearing sun-bleached denim.