At The Circus

February 06, 2019

Although there were no tightropes, no magicians and no lions, Vasilis Loizides took us to the circus for F/W ‘19.

Urging one to rethink modern day power dynamics, the show, both dramatic and weighty, played with the three-way relationship between the performers, the audience and the designer, begging the question: who really holds the power in today’s world? With a collection as strong and unafraid as Loizides’, we’re thinking the answer is him.

Comprised of fifteen looks, the show stuck to jewel-toned pieces and circus-themed prints in powerful and innovative silhouettes, exuding an overall exotic and maximalist vibe. Our favorite pieces included a pair of sparkly cowboy chaps, coin-fringed tops and a 3D elephant head velvet shirt-dress—with matching pants of course.

Text by Caroline Brown
Photos by Phoenix Johnson

Oh and the peacock feathered suit was killer. See it, and our other favorite looks from backstage at the presentation, below.

Fashion

Into the Light w/ Rick Owens SS24

October 03, 2023

The soft pink haze drifted through the air, accompanying the soothing vocals of the designer's homemade remix of Diana Ross' "I Still Believe in Love", which landed as gracefully. But even without the ambiance, Rick Owens’ message for this season stood resoundingly clear. He still believes.

As the opening model navigated the precarious marble staircase of the Palais de Tokyo, her towering heels led to a momentary slip, a subtle hiccup in her otherwise poised walk. It didn’t seem intentional, but I myself like the idea of that being the case. In the grand scheme of Earth's existence, it feels as though we too are momentarily slipping, much like that model. However, in the blink of an eye, we may find our footing once more, just like she. Our journey, like the intricate cuts, drapes, and textures of this collection, might continue along a renewed path.

Text by Vilda Krog
Photos by Tyler Matthew Oyer

Owens was up to his usual antics, yet the message resonated differently, casting a fresh light upon his familiar courtyard. It almost felt like new territory. The blacks were deeper but not necessarily darker. The form-fitting fabrics were comfortably embracing, without constraining. High waists encouraged models to stand tall with confidence.

Nevertheless, a somber undertone still permeated Owens' silhouettes. The exaggerated arches of shoulders appeared even more severe, distorting the natural contours of the body. Collars extended far beyond the heads, serving as armor on a metaphorical battlefield. Some models had their heads sheltered under delicate layers of mesh, observing while remaining protected. Following the ensembles came last season's duvets, transformed and lined with strips of denim and mesh, followed by translucent trails that billowed like ethereal flowers in the wind. Owens' creations conquered not only the marble stairs but also mirrored the prevailing atmosphere of our contemporary world.

The Lord of Darkness has ventured into the light, embracing luminosity and embodying its spirit. As this chapter came to a close in the color of love, a hue also reminiscent of blood and pain, it whispered that pleasure could not exist without its counterpart. Owens voiced this promise in the most profound way.

Fashion

A Street Mob in Paris?

October 02, 2023

Fashion luminary Elizabeth Hilfiger had the right idea, staging a FOO AND FOO flash mob outside various fashion shows, including those of Vivienne Westwood and McQueen, at locations like OFR, Republique, La Perle, La Saint Gervais, and Le Progres over the weekend. Cloaked in head-to-toe black trench coats and concealed by ski masks and gloves, the ensemble not only turned heads but also drew the attention of passersby, diners, and the paparazzi throughout the city.

At the core of the brand lies the fusion of utilitarian designs with everyday clothing staples, fearlessly intertwining heritage elements with FOO AND FOO’s irreverent reinterpretation of Californian classics, offering signatures such as rib knits, tees, and denim styles. Having found its footing, the brand is poised to remain a contemporary force in the industry, and maybe Hilfiger may just actually start a cult.

Text by Colleen Rodgers
Photos courtesy of FOO AND FOO

See more from the mob below. Collection is now live at fooandfoo.com

Fashion

Jester Bulnes' BARRAGÁN Diary

Victor Barragán transformed AIFA airport into a sort of cultural purgatory. Obviously, the collection's moniker, "Quiet Luxury!", was a cheeky pass at the resurgent fashion movement centered on 'anti-bling', but Barragán's designs, in all their ostentatious glory, were anything but quiet. Models slinked down a motionless travelator, clad in looks that seemed like a jumble of conflicting references. Bullet wounds, bloody slashes, flashy camo-wear, national flag-pastiches, guerrilla-esque patrol hats, among other symbolic artifacts resonated loudly. Paradoxically, the collection felt timeless, fixed in a liminal space neither here or there. The eclectic references jumbled together naturally blended into what we’ve come to understand as the soul of BARRAGÁN.

Photographer Jester Bulnes, who walked the show, filled us in from their POV.

Read their diary below.

Last year I attended my first New York Fashion Week purely for the sake of the FOMO I would feel. This year amidst Paris Fashion week I was invited to not only attend, but walk my first runway for Barragán SS24, a designer I have not only admired for years, but have fantasized about working with, in Mexico City.

Sept 26

Immediately off the plane to my fitting, it was the day before the show. Right as I walked in, I was greeted by friends calming my nerves and to my surprise I saw Jordan Firstman, another familiar face, receiving a haircut and having his beard trimmed into the most swaggy striped pattern. Without having even seen any of the clothes, I knew that that show was going to be everything.

Sept 27

9:21 AM

Day of the show. I have been dreaming of this day my entire life. I met up with my friends Sevyn and Julian for coffee as we all head together to the bus that would be taking all of the models to the runway location: AIFA Airport.

Nothing but tattoos, muscles, and sweet personalities fill the long ride as everyone who would be a part of the show is more than the typical model and rather embodies the ethos of the brand.

12:30 AM

We arrived. Cracking jokes and in awe at the ability to present such a collection in the middle of an airport, we all make it through security.

1:06 PM

Models begin receiving bullets to their foreheads, extra hairy sideburns, and scars on their bodies.

3:34 PM

It's finally time to practice the initial walkthrough. Strutting down a moving walkway and weaving through airport chairs, the walk feels a bit confusing. After a few tries and a dose of confidence, I had it down.

5:01PM

Collectively deciding to get dressed as hair and makeup had just finished up, we bantered that we would need a full hour of having our photos taken as the show was set to begin at 6PM.

5:55 PM

Chains. Crowns. Crucifix rosaries. It all blurs by as everyone backstage is working hard to have everything ready for the show.

6:12 PM

The show had already begun and it was about to be my turn to walk. I taked a deeo breath and think about the young kid taking selfportraits in the infamous gay Barragán speedo. I was ready.

6:27 PM

It's time for the final walk and blasting through the speakers is Slowdive’s “Souvlaki Space Station.” This moment could not feel anymore magical. I will never forget this moment.