Oh and the peacock feathered suit was killer. See it, and our other favorite looks from backstage at the presentation, below.
The classic archetype of four black suits designed in the Haute Couture atelier are a byproduct of impulsive modification. “The customization of dress codes takes form in tailoring defiantly un-hemmed at the seams, allowing for an unravelling process that elongates the physique,” the press release said. “The technique triggers a study of volumes that spill out–disobeying the tucked-in tradition–in looks layered to achieve the maximum effect of the idea.” With intent to update classic suits to more recent mentalities, Givenchy proposed a dressing culture founded on an individualistic approach to formal wear executed with “ease and confidence” to evolve tradition.
Under the loggia in Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, the show is recorded with a CCTV-inspired video by International Magic featuring interactive views from 12 streaming cameras–so even if you weren’t there, there's no need for FOMO about this party — you can still take a “voyeuristic fly-on-the-wall” peek into Martine’s show. As for the looks, button-down shirts and printed ties are at the base of the collection with the Martine rose® logo embroidered on. Necklaces with extended gold chains, too, have an emblem but of coins with “ENJOY YOUR AGE” and “WOMAN’S PLACE IS EVERY PLACE” emblazoned in collaboration with jewelry line LL, LLC.
At this discotheque, models with square-toed shoes pumped down the liqueur-toned carpet toting shopping bags and purses filled with what we can only guess would be more hair spray, shot glasses, and loose bills (to go with the earings). A black wool car coat rose up to the ears as “very naughty” micro-rise jeans have near cheek exposure. Next to starch-induced sweaters and sports jersey jackets, Martine Rose’s silhouettes spill from a previous gig as a Menswear Consultant at Balenciaga. The oversized, structured neckline which sits above the neck is paired with a laser-cut Western fringe (are you joking?) in an all-American look you would never expect, almost as unexpected as a bubblegum-pink jacket with fur trim and puffed sleeves.
And we couldn’t even try to guess, where will Martine Rose take us next?
Speaking to the Parisian "Presence Africaine", jackets were emblazoned with Sorbone 56, marking the First Congress of Black Artists and Writers attended by the likes of Aime Cesaire, Alioune Diop Frantz Fanon and James Baldwin, a reference further accentuated throughout the line by way of cowrie shell embellishments on eveningwear, kinetic raffia plumage and accessories made with delicate Ghanaian beads.
We also were pleased to see a continuation of Wales Bonner's partnership with adidas Orginals at the show, with striped sporting pieces in Jamaica sunlight yellow previewing an upcoming capsule in collaboration with the country's national football team.
