Anchored in emotional resonance, the collection draws from utilitarian and protective elements, merging them with soft, flowing fabrics that speak to the complexity of feminine strength. By refusing to confine itself within traditional gender expressions, SRVC champions a woman who is unapologetically both strong and vulnerable, urging her to embrace every facet of her identity. Preview the lookbook below.
Exploring the ornate, the hyperfeminine, and motifs or vibrant patterns that are considered to be “oriental,” and owning them in her own personal way, Shui presents a jewel-toned color-explosion of a collection, wrapped up in taffeta, silk ribbons, and lace. The collection, which features a range of sultry corset and bloomer sets, elegant slips, and seductive sequined minis, also includes the use of a heritage textile called Mud Silk, a 100% biodegradable textile with a 2,500-year tradition in Southeast China derived from the Ming dynasty. The resource is dyed using natural dye from the anti-microbial Chinese Yam, bringing the collection full circle and honoring the upbringing that has shaped Shui into the powerful woman and artist she is today.
office spoke to Shui post-show to discuss this newfound power she has settled into, the Roman mythology and heritage cultural traditions that inspired key elements, and her affinity for never taking the runway too seriously.
What is the inspiration behind this collection?
I was inspired by two artists I really love — Hannah Lim and Faye Wei Wei. Hannah explores a lot of the same themes I do — taking elements like chinoiserie and turning the viewpoint on them, flipping the idea that the ornamental (which is associated with femininity and the oriental) and thought of as negative instead into sources of joy. Also if you look at the fabrics — they’re Chinese embroidered silks, there’s also a heritage fabric called Mud Silk in the collection, and it’s mixed with figure hugging silhouettes and shaped waist power suits. Lace, sequins, tulle, explosive colors — I wanted to highlight these for the collection.
Which look was your favorite to work on?
Look 1 was crazy to work on because when I had originally draped it the shape it was perfect and organic and felt just right — I hadn’t fully finished it yet though so there were just pins and we tried the unfinished version on the models to fit but then the drape moved and I couldn’t get the same shape again. So I spent another good 5 hours the night before the show getting the original look back and making sure it was properly finished. I refused to stop working on it until I got it right.
How have you learned to weaponize the idea of “otherness” through your craft?
I think it’s to emphasize those themes even more in my collections and turn them into items of celebration.
Ahead of their show, office got the inside scoop from the designers of all three brands about what we can expect to see from them this season. Read our conversation below.
What element or design feature from the collection you will present in this show are you the most excited to share?
Jenny Kim and Haeun Lee (Kimmy.J)— Our collection is based on the concept of ”Singularity of Chakras,“ and pockets and bags using curves, the shape of singularities, are vital items. This detail can be styled by combining small bags into one crossbody bag or by mounting it anywhere in one small bag. The design is also matched with cargo pants or tops as the collection’s signature. It connects the city look – our collection concept – and the natural fit yoga look in meditation.
Hyun Park (MMAM)— The SS24 collection is characterized by a pattern that feels like being dressed in a collection inspired by unconscious behavior, [such as our] signature Doodle Drawing Blazer completed with our brand logo. I am excited to showcase a fabric developed with a doodle drawing stitch overlaid on linen.
Yohan Kang (CHARM’S)— The theme of this collection is "A New Look in Harmony." It showcases a modern style by combining various designs and mixing fabrics to create harmony. This collection also emphasizes hidden details, revealing different charms hidden within zippers and slits, incorporating our renewed logos throughout, adding an element of fun in discovering them in each piece.
If your brand was a universe, what would it look like? Who lives there?
Jenny Kim and Haeun Lee (Kimmy.J)— Everyone in our universe is their own planet. All of their spiritual acts, their ideas, radiate into energy, merge into a singularity in our universe, and that energy blooms back into the chakra in us living on the planet.
Hyun Park (MMAM)— Only art and artists live in this universe and no one else.
Yohan Kang (CHARM’S)— Confident and radiant individuals who know their self worth.
How did you approach bringing your brand to New York for fashion week? Are there any influences or connections to New York in your collection?
Jenny Kim and Haeun Lee (Kimmy.J)— Our brand’s design items are inspired by the actions modern people take for their physical and spiritual health - exercise, pleasant meals, conversation, self-expression, work, dance, song, etc. In particular, tank tops, leggings, layered denim, and linen items connected directly to daily life, from joggers to yoga looks, are the main items affected by the quintessential New Yorker. These designs are reborn through collaboration with [visual] artists.
Hyun Park (MMAM)— My thesis was inspired by the abstract artist Cy Twombly, and I developed embroidery and signature fabric through this thesis. I really wanted to come and showcase my collection in the city where the artist who inspired me most created his art and was so beloved.
Yohan Kang (CHARM’S)— This collection aims to highlight the diversity and aesthetics of New York, and emphasize its visibility in the global market. We present a fresh perspective on Charm’s in New York City, a city where people of various backgrounds coexist harmoniously.
Their inspiration for this collection revolves around capturing the joyous spirit of being provocatively unconventional in "professional" settings. The experimentation with metallics and tinfoils creates a captivating sense of accessible yet delightful glamour. Impeccably tailored capris take on a whimsical low-waisted twist, while audaciously large key hair accessories add a playful touch to elegant dresses and skirt sets. The presence of stripes, blues, and yellows gives the collection a subtle nautical vibe.
What truly sets Lucky Jewel apart is their unwavering commitment to the DIY ethos, as evidenced by their unconventional use of materials such as foam, mesh, tyvek, and vinyl. They seamlessly blend casual and tailored elements, subverting classic silhouettes to create looks that could almost pass as suitable for a professional setting. In essence, Lucky Jewel has established its own "professional dress code," sending a powerful message that the ultimate dress code is to feel good and be true to oneself.
