Collina Strada Gets STRONGER: FW 2024

February 10, 2024

Collina Strada returned to NYFW yesterday to present their Fall/Winter 2024 collection, titled “STRONGER.” Designer Hillary Taymour’s show notes welcomed guests to “Collina’s gym, where your inner feminine power takes outer chiseled form.” Some models toted their pregnant bellies and small infants, others flexed their biceps for the audience’s enjoyment, and some models even pumped down the runway while pumping iron (though in a classic Collina subversion, their makeshift dumbbells are designed to resemble unripe squash). The range of the casting told nearly as much of a story as the garments themselves, with each model asserting their own personality and strength on the runway.

Using deadstock fabrics printed with psychedelic vibrant graphics and classic UGGs made with corn leather, “STRONGER” stayed true to Taymour’s long-held principles of causing as little waste as possible in the production of a collection. Held in the HERO venue in the bowels of the Rockerfeller center, the show’s setting helped evoke the feeling of a proto-dystopian training facility, with large digital displays on the walls and ceiling of rapidly shifting AI-generated animations of the animal kingdom. Models appeared sweaty but sleek, and swole silhouettes and nearly anthropomorphic muscle shirts merged with tulles, laces, and satins to present a new archetype of strength from the future, for the future.

By Samuel Getachew
Photos Matt Weinberger

After the show, office went backstage to speak to Hillary Taymour about her A/W 2024 collection. Read our conversation below.

Hi Hillary! Congratulations on such a beautiful show.

Thank you, thank you.

What were you the most excited for people to see from this collection?

The feminine strength that we can all have. Pushing the chaos of navigating this world and being able to push through, with this strong sense of the feminine.

Last season, you were meditating on this feeling of, “everything is burning.” This season there seems to have been little bit of a shift emotionally to focus on strength—

It’s still like, how can we get through it? Like, fuck this. We gotta do something. [Laughs] We gotta get it together.

On a personal level, when do you feel the strongest? What has been giving you this feeling of strength over the last six months?

Honestly, I feel strong when I'm surrounded by my team and we all are working together and I'm like, “wow.” Like last night, we're all up at three in the morning going, going, going. I started crying. I was like, “This is so beautiful that we're all just in perfect sync and harmony and pushing through together.”

I love that.

I love my team!

Last season you incorporated the use of AI in a very unorthodox way to design a collection. Moving into this season, was there any lingering influence from having mixed up the process in that way?

We worked with stable diffusion to create that video [hanging above the runway]. I was like, this block is chaotic, people's interpretation was chaotic. So I just wanted to create the most chaotic thing possible for your viewing pleasure.

And I did enjoy viewing it!

Thank you, I’m glad. I think it’s still playing, you can watch it as you walk out.

Where did the concept for “stronger” come from? Was there a specific moment for you?

It came from women dressing women. Women dressing women.

It’s been about 15 years now since you started Collina in college—

Way to age me!

I’m sorry! But, I mean, you know, in that time, a lot of growth and maturing happens. How do you feel like the Collina woman has evolved or matured over the years since you started?

I feel like it just gets more and more confident. And like, I get more and more like myself. I don't get scared to go that extra way. I don't need to play favorites, I don’t need to play the game, I can just be myself.

Thank you so much for taking the time to speak with me.

Thank you!

Fashion

Lennon Gallagher’s Future Heritage

November 08, 2024

At London's The Dublin Castle, Lennon Gallagher’s band Automotion played a gig on the same stage once christened by The Killers, that birthed The Libertines. The pub’s indie-soaked history was the perfect match for the genuinity of the trio’s setlist — a nod to the bands who had found their "break" there decades prior.

The crowd, clad in blazers and button-downs, was packed with Lennon’s family and friends, celebrating the launch of Napapijri’s FW24 campaign with mixed drinks from the open bar and a cig on the Camden streets. Starring Lennon and his mother, Patsy, the campaign channeled '90s influences from padded puffers to elastic drawstrings. Scattered through the crowd, the styles nodded to silhouettes remembered through the lens of Napapijri’s classics.

After the show, office caught up with Lennon to discuss London winters, working with his mom, and family traditions in the Gallagher household.

By Julia Silverberg
Photography by Lin You

Have you been to The Dublin Castle before?

I’ve actually been a few times. It’s an iconic pub, and they pour a good Guinness.

It's historic — I heard Amy Winehouse would occasionally pull a pint there. How did it feel to perform at the venue?

It felt great, especially because most of the people in the crowd were my mates coming to support. It’s also fun performing in an intimate venue like The Dublin Castle, makes it more special.

Do you have a favorite memory of going out in North London?

It’s hard to pin down just one, North London has the best pubs.

Yeah, now is the best time to be inside at the pub. How would you describe London winters?

Wet.

Tell me about your band, Automotion.

We’re currently on our European tour which has been a lot of fun. Our music video for our new single, "Inferno," has just been released and we have some cool stuff coming up too, but you’ll have to wait and see.

What artists are influencing you right now?

At the moment, I’d say Black Midi. I’ve always enjoyed their music, but now they’re on repeat with Duster.

You get that from your sound and style; what’s the best outfit to wear for a show?

Leather trench coat, always.

You've always been into fashion, and you recently got to model alongside your mom, Patsy, in Napapijri's new campaign. What did working with the brand mean to you and your family?

It was fun to see each other working in a professional setting, so I guess it gave us both an insight into a work perspective of each other's lives which we don’t normally get to see.

Is there a moment from the shoot that stood out to you?

Probably the shots were my mum and I had to look at each other with serious faces. Was hard not to laugh, but we managed to keep it together

Do you have a favorite piece from the "Future Heritage" collection?

I’d have to say the 1990 Anorak, it’s a classic.

What fashion traditions have persisted in your household?

I think it’s always about being comfortable in what you wear. It’s a cliche but I’d say comfort is key.

Fashion

Go As You Please - Ann-Sofie Back 1998-2018

In this conversation for Office Magazine, Ann-Sofie Back and co-curator Nicole Walker open up about the deeper themes behind their new exhibition. They discuss everything from fashion and creativity to personal reflections on legacy, death, and the journey of curating Go As You Please.

Interview with Ann-Sofie Back and Nicole Walker

NW If you had to choose one garment from the whole archive to take with you to the grave. Which one would you choose?

ASB It varies from day to day. Right now it’s the red wig sandals we put in the exhibition last night. I can never look at my designs as singular pieces, it's what they’re combined with that makes them special. I actually have an aversion to dresses because of this. It is too easy.

If you have a t-shirt that sends out a certain message, you need to pair it with the wrong shoes to erase the shirt's message in order for the look to be ambivalent and possible to read in different ways. Sending out a clear message is failure.

What has been the hardest decision you have made in terms of your work?

NW I think the hardest decision is how much I’ve had to compromise my creativity to be able to earn a living as a stylist. Like it’s half styling, half being an actress / people reader-pleaser. Or at least that’s my approach. With commercial projects, it’s always this draining, unhealthy feeling of selling your soul to a monster of capitalism. It’s really not why I do what I do. But I do love money!

And in all honesty, I think just carrying and taking one million bags of clothes/shoes and other shit around is exhausting at times. But I also enjoy pushing myself and my body to the limit. To the breaking point- which is compatible with being a stylist, it just also really means I will most likely die from treating my body like shit - but I’m ok with that!

This exhibition is all about death. Did working on this exhibition made you feel differently about dying in any way?

ASB Yes totally. It’s been a grieving period, and working on the exhibition and book for the past three to four years has helped me accept death and say goodbye. I feel like I’m done, I’m free, I can die now. My sense of self has been tied to being a fashion designer, but now, I’m free of that. The reason for keeping my design archive from 1998-2018 has always been to make this exhibition, but the death theme came maybe a year ago after going through some very dark times personally.

Tell me why fashion is the most important art form?

NW I don’t think it is. The reason why I love fashion is that it’s always going to be low culture. Fashion is never going to be considered fine art. And I love that. Fashion is that desperate little sibling constantly seeking validation.

Do you?

ASB Yes, everyone is involved has a say. Which makes super annoying but nonetheless more interesting and difficult to work with. You have the restraints of wearability and that the costumer and the constant question “do you think fashion is art” who cares?! But it is not.

NW So what is the most annoying thing about fashion right now?

ASB Since I’m not actively “in the business” any more I don't have any particular hates atm. People still dress ugly as shit though hahah.

NW If you could call someone dead, who would you call and what would you talk about?

ASB That thought is really scary. Firstly, I have a phone phobia and then talking to someone dead… I would call my dead dog Beverly and listen to her snores, huffs and puffs I think. I would tell her “cheese” and “ball”.

Do you want to be cremated and put in an urn or spread out someplace or buried in a coffin in the ground?

NW I want to be cremated for sure. I hate the idea of my body rotting or being eaten by worms and stuff. And would like to be spread somewhere nice, preferably somewhere warm like a desert or into a volcano. Or spread into multiple container necklaces, so people could be walking around with me around their necks. Would you wear my ashes around your neck if I die? :) I can put you on the list of potential owners of my ashes.

ASB I wonder how much ashes a body has? I don’t think I would wear you. However, you would get a special place in my house. A Shrine.

NW Ok, Shrine works for me.

Which is your favorite look in the exhibition, tho? You have to choose one.

ASB I can't. Maybe the first one you made still. Or the one with my baby teeth.

What about you?

NW That’s so funny, I think the first one I made or the one with baby teeth too.

ASB Isak (The Deputy Director at Liljevalchs, the gallery) was asking why I wanted to do an exhibition with my archive and not an archive show? Would you have liked to do that instead?

NW Like a runway show? No, I prefer this set up. I want to see your creations in an art Gallery. I walked through the exhibition, now that it's almost finished, and I got very emotional. I love the way it turned out, and I’m so in awe of what you’ve created, and I’m so happy to have been a part of this.

ASB I feel the same. Thank you for being a part of this and hanging in there through the very, very long process.

NW What happens for you now when the exhibition is almost done, what are your plans for the rest of the year?

ASB It will feel empty, post show-blues for sure. However, there is a lot happening and to do with the interior objects I am designing under the name Gnilmyd kcab. What about you?

NW I might move to Tokyo for a while, but it’s all up in the air at the moment. Which feels exciting and life is behaving beautifully strange and I just hope Trump does not win the US election next week cause if he does it really feels like everything will go to total shit.

RIP.

Fashion

Market Studios x Snipes: A Day With Cash Cobain

Market Studios seems to effortlessly blend the worlds of fashion, music, and culture. Partnering with Cash Cobain and his crew leading up to his surprise concert is just one of the ways in which the brand seeks to contribute something new and interesting to the fashion landscape. One of their core values is making people smile which they accomplish through working with a diverse array of creators and icons. Founded in 2016 by Mike Cherman, MARKET is known for its limited-edition drops and focuses on redefining streetwear. Market showcases its story by offering their customers variety in their shopping experience. Don't be shocked to find homegoods, tailored cut-n-sew garments, accessories, and graphic apparel all in the same place.