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office chatted with the esteemed nail artist in between her neverending list of appointments. Read the interview below.
In fashion, nail design is getting more recognition than ever before. Why do you think that is?
A few reasons—there is a popularity brought over to Europe from America through Instagram. But also, the way we see media now is so different. We obtain all these images online. Before in print, you could get away with a dirty bit of nail where now you can zoom in on an image. In that sense, there is a lot more attention to detail. Also, it became popular with private clients and more salons, because people began to understand that it is a certain form of therapy in a way. Also, during recession in the UK, one of the industries that actually boomed was manicures and nail polish. I think it is not just a trend. I think it is going to stay.
Right, in the American fashion industry, manicures are a much higher priority than they are in Europe!
Yes, but it is really important on shoots. You can have the most amazing hair and makeup when the model sits in front of the glam mirror. Then she knows which character she is. But as soon as she steps away from that mirror, she can’t see herself anymore. So, manicures are a really good way of reminding the models to stay in character. Hands are extremely emotive and expressive and a good way to encourage them to use their entire body. When you do manicure on models, whether it is the most basic manicure or an elaborate one, you do see them use their hands differently. A lot of people don’t actually understand how insecure people are about their hands and feet. So as soon as you make them look good, it gives them a lot of confidence.
Do you see your manicure as art or more as craftsmanship?
It is probably more craftsmanship. The main difference between art and craft is that you can get art fabricated elsewhere, and it would still be your art. Whereas with nails it has to be that person that is essentially doing it. But craftsmanship is a process. It has history and theory and original thoughts. In that way, craft and art are very similar.
Who or what inspires your designs most?
If the design is self-directed, it can be anything. Looking away from the internet is a really good idea, looking outside of your practice and loads of research within nail history, occupations, and how people use their hands. A lot of it is by touching materials and understanding how different they are. I had this moment a while ago at a flea market in London. I saw this woman looking at a really horrible vase. It was completely covered in shells, and I could hear her acrylic nails scratching against the shells that made a weird noise. So, I thought it could be fun to do a hand that is completely covered in shells and did it on myself at home.
And when working for clients?
In fashion, it’s mainly the brief. You think about what they are trying to convey, research what materials or occupations could be linked to it and think about how that relates to hands. The Charles Jeffrey Show was a lot about nature, ritual and human imprint on nature. That got me thinking about harvest. That was why I used all these wheat stems, moss and dirt in the nails. With private clients, the inspiration is that person. It is always a delicate balance between what they like, who they want to be and what’s manageable for them. Generally, I just come up with a bunch of ideas, and they can pick and choose. It has been a long way, because a lot of the time people disregard manicurists as having inspired ideas but actually, they have a lot of them!
What is the most challenging aspect of doing nails at a runway show?
There are a lot of challenging things. One of them is that you don’t know what size nails and hands people are going to have. For one model, you probably made about 16 nails. So, when you have a show of 40 people, you are making hundreds of press-ons. That is a hell of a lot of preparation, because you want the nails to look like they belong to that person and fit beautifully. Another difficult thing is that you are often working alongside hair and makeup, because of the time constraints. You are working when the model sits in the makeup or hair chair, because there is never a nail chair. And when it comes to Spring/Summer and you have a lot of pedicures to do, you will find yourself sitting under the glam table trying to have the nail polish dry in time before they have to get changed. Some of the looks I do are so big and delicate that models will need their clothes on first. Shows can be really tough, but the outcome is magical, so all is worth it!
Building off of that, do you wish that fashion shows had nail glam tables by default?
That would be great in an ideal world without time restraints. It would be great to have time to get people to sit down to get their pedicures done, but there is always a way of getting around that. And most of the time, that is good preparation for being militant about your strategy.
How long do these preparations take?
Generally, the looks are not confirmed until two days before or even the day before. So, it is a genuinely manic 24-hour rush where you have assistants helping you prep press-ons and getting things ready. The wheat nails for the Charles Jeffrey show were rings that I had made beforehand so that I could slide them onto the fingers and secure them.
Has there ever been an idea that was too crazy to replicate?
No, I don’t think any idea is too crazy to replicate. You can always manage. You just need enough time, and the situation on set has to be right. I am kind of big-headed in a sense that I think I can make absolutely anything.
Which brands, colors or materials do you use the most?
I have to use lots of different things depending on the manicures, but color-wise, I really love Chanel’s range and their brushes. I also like CND Vinylux and Artistic Nail Design; their polishes are very good. For skin care I use a lot of Weleda; they do really nice hand and foot products. For the more crazy stuff, I use this sculpting clay on top of press-ons. It goes solid very fast and is not something you could use on a private client.
What is the most unusual material you have ever used for nail art?
Loads! There was one manicure I did ages ago for a latex brand, and we used melted soap with pigments in it where the model was dipping her hands in again and again, and it created these mad forms over the fingers. The moss for Charles Jeffrey was probably another difficult one—and LED lights and the shells.
Out of all of the nail art you’ve ever created, which has been your favorite? Who wore it?
There is this one private client who is a friend and artist named Sagg Napoli. A little while ago, we spent a whole day doing nails that look like Neapolitan baroque ceramics. They had sculptured roses and faces, and we gave it a finish to make it look like it was porcelain. That took a good seven hours.
Do you have a dream client? Who is it, and what would you do?
Alive? I would love to do Dolly Parton’s nails, and to be honest … she can just have whatever the hell she wants! It would probably be a hot pink long square acrylic like she always has. And If I could do literally anyone including dead people, I would love to do Cleopatra’s nails. She is the epitome of historical glamour. Manicuring techniques have been used all over the world since the dawn of time, but the ancient Egyptians used to do things like making beeswax hand masks that they would wear overnight and polishing their hands with Henna. It would just be so interesting to meet her and see what she is like as a person and what she would want. I don’t know if I would choose what to give to her. I mean, she is the queen, so you can’t really tell her anything obviously!
Since you are talking about it, nail polish has changed so much traditionally throughout history. In some regions, it was used for men to show off their social status. Nowadays, manicures are more often associated with women’s beauty routines. What is your forecast?
I think it is great that so many guys are realizing how much they love nail polish now! That is amazing. Long nails represent so much power, so it is quite surprising that people would associate it with not being on men. But historically that is true. In ancient Rome, men would paint their lips and nails pink before battle to look more scary. So, it would be nice if it would come back for men.
Speaking of the future, any nail trends we should watch out for this year?
Trends are difficult to answer. Which demographic are we talking about? Which country? I also think I am not in the position to say what’s right for anyone either. Trends are so often influenced by changes in society and politics or due to new techniques being created. I would like people to just choose what they want and to be able to have conviction in it.
Meet our Season 3 judges below.
Photo by Danny Lim
Where were you born?
I was born in Osaka and grew up in Tokyo, Japan.
How did you get a start in your career?
I started cutting my friend's hair at the age of 10. When I was 11, I got my own curling iron. In my late teens, I belonged to a pop band, but I couldn't play an instrument and was in charge of hair styling for the members. After working at a hair salon in Tokyo, I was inspired to move to New York—I had a lot of passion. I studied for six years under the Italian hair master Luigi Murenu and then started working independently on my own.
What’s your daily beauty regimen?
Starting the day by saying a tongue twister loudly three times and a having big smile every morning.
Name one beauty product that, if everyone used it, would make the world a happier place and why.
Coconut oil. It works for everything.
What hair product matches your personality and what would you name it?
It would be a hair serum made of coconut oil. It would be called "AKKI SERUM:The Quality Wave".
If I wasn't in the beauty industry I would be [insert alternate profession].
Even if I was not a hairstylist, I would choose a creative job, express myself, and chase my dreams. I would challenge something big "against the gravity of the Earth” as well as hair styling.
When do you feel the most beautiful?
When I experience the moments and embrace the scenery that make me feel alive on this Earth.
What’s one product you can’t leave the house without?
Coconut oil.
Photo by Ashley Smith
Where were you born?
San Louis Obispo, CA.
How did you get a start in your career?
I started a band when I was 21 and met a ton of magical creative people from the art scene and blossomed into my career from there.
What’s your daily beauty regimen?
I wash my face by using either a natural witch hazel toner or Clinique level three toner. Then I use face oil, drink a lot of water— and when I go out for the day, I put some SPF on my face and a light silky foundation. Sometimes I just use SPF and boy brow for my eyebrows and brush them up. I like Agatha Orange Gucci beauty on my lips or a clear/light pink on my lips, and I switch off from having dramatic eyes like oversized bold shapes or nothing on the eyes, it depends on the day. I’m also obsessed with mascara. And I use coconut oil on my body because I have sensitive skin.
Name one beauty product that, if everyone used it, would make the world a happier place.
Rosewater spray. It really helps change the mood and I think if people were to try it, they would feel better and more refreshed during the day. Ever since my friend Sienna introduced me to rosewater spray, I have it on me always.
Create a lipstick name and shade that matches your personality.
It would be called "Trixie Stardust" and would be bright orange-red with sparkle hue and water-resistant.
If you were a pet, whose pet would you be and why?
I would be Marilyn Manson’s Pony because I bet he would be rad and take me to raves, let me smoke weed, do my makeup and dye my hair.
Who's your ultimate beauty icon?
It's a tie between Nina Hagen and Debbie Harry.
What’s one product you can’t leave the house without?
Lipstick in my purse—always. Usually a classic red, a black, and an orange-red or pink. And a chapstick.
Photo by Jefferson Santiago
Where were you born?
Atlanta, Georgia.
How did you get a start in your career?
A friend who I was doing drag with in the 90s got me a job at the MAC counter in Atlanta. Then I moved to New York and started assisting in shows during NYFW. While freelancing in NYC I was able to assist all the big makeup artists like Pat, Val, Kabuki, and Charlotte.
What’s your daily beauty regimen?
I like to keep things simple with my personal routine. I use a foaming salicylic acid facial wash from the drugstore. I love Lamer and Augustinus Bader for moisturizers. Drunk Elephant Luxury Facial Oil is also a favorite lately.
Name one beauty product that, if everyone used it, would make the world a happier place.
I always love a good sheet or an eye mask. I feel like they force you to relax and take a moment to chill. I always stock the 111Skin mask in my gear for a quick indulgence.
Create a lipstick name and shade that matches your personality.
It would be called "Integra" and would be a vivid neon red/orange color.
Best non-conventional makeup tool?
I highly recommend everyone have a silk pillowcase. I noticed a few years ago I was developing a sleep crease so I switched over to a Slip silk pillowcase. I can see a visible difference in my skin when I wake up in the morning.
If you got to do the glam for an animated film, which would it be and why?
Jem and the Holograms. As a child, I loved the duality of Jem/Jerrica and the bad girl rival group the Misfits. Super glam early 80s makeup illustration at its best.
What’s one product you can’t leave the house without?
SPF and sunglasses.
Photo by Ted Emmons
Where were you born?
Bucaramanga, Colombia.
How did you get a start in your career?
I founded my own clothing brand back in 2012. By creating my own brand with no budget, I had to literally become everything that was needed: the photographer, the stylist, the makeup artist, the hairstylist/colorist, and the casting director. I started creative directing on test shoots for other photographers and would jump into whatever position I wanted to work on specifically, or sometimes even all positions. I used those shoots to experiment and develop my skills as a creative director and become an artist who could precisely execute my visions accurately through photography, videography, styling, hair and makeup.
What’s your daily beauty regimen?
My beauty regimen on an average day consists of:
1) Chugging the water next to my bed
2) Take a shower (I also usually brush my teeth in the shower).
3) I ALWAYS some type of face scrub or face wash. I also use a black African soap face and body wash. For my hair, I use shampoo and conditioner. Although some days I just condition because my hair is dry from dying it so much.
4) Now, I'm out of the shower and I add hair milk to my hair and an allover hair serum/oil.
5) Then I put on two different moisturizers—an under eye and an allover face moisturizer. I also add a couple of drops of vitamin c oil and collagen serum to my daily moisture for the entire face.
6) Then I put on boy's deodorant and Vivienne Westwood perfume—one spray on the neck and one on the wrists.
7) Then I take a glass of water with my daily vitamins.
8) After that, I take a half cup of water with a two-ingredient protein shake (one scoop of collagen hydrolysate protein and one scoop of an all-natural protein powder called Designer Whey).
That’s it on an average day, but this process can get more intense depending on how much time I have. My weekend spa treatment gets pretty intense with hours of steps.
Name one beauty product that, if everyone used it, would make the world a happier place.
WATER! We all forget to keep hydrated and drink water and it can make us feel better in a multitude of ways! It gives more energy, fewer headaches, and can help to make you fuller and help your skin to look great.
Create a lipstick name and shade that matches your personality.
The shade of lipstick would be holographic/translucent and it would be named "PLUR".
Best shade of eyeshadow to wear on a Saturday night?
A deep blue or a glossy lid always kills.
One product you can’t live without?
Chapstick/lip scrub.
When do you feel the sexiest?
Fresh out the shower, baby :)
Photo courtesy of Lana Jay Lackey
Where were you born?
San Diego, California.
How did you get a start in your career?
Which one? For styling, it starts with my mother. She collects vintage pieces and I would ravage through her closets growing up and would dress my friends, who also were photographers. This went on in Portland, Oregon which had a massive DIY punk house community at that time. I learned if you want to make something, you could go for it and it could be cheap, or even free. Fashion is fun—it can be punk. Within that scope, I knew that New York was the place to be, so I moved here 9 years ago. I feel that I have found my place working in a few different mediums. I do styling, collage art, and I am a bookmaker. I created SEDITION Magazine which is a punk paper inspired by the DIY communities of my childhood.
What’s your daily beauty regimen?
I start with a shower with a Yerba Mate tea and some loud rap song on repeat. I have mild acne, but it's enough to make me obsessed/depressed over it. So my beauty regimen is to stop looking in tiny mirrors, listen to my dermatologist, and get good sleep. If I am going out, I wear make up and If I’m going to the office, I give my skin a break. A face free of makeup makes me feel like I’m 12 yrs old. But if I do use makeup, I like a tinted moisturizer by Kosas, concealer by Hourglass, mascara by Benefit and eyeliner by Kat Von D. Lately, I’ve been loading on the glitter, there’s a trashy liquid glitter that I love from Urban Decay. It makes me feel like a sexy princess. My haircut is called “Punk Rock Princess Diana” and is done by Dylan Chavles. I took fabric scissors to it over thanksgiving. She was away at the Hard Rock hotel in Jersey so I had no choice. I use a lot of dry shampoos and tease the shit out of it. If I do this, I get a lot of compliments, even though I always think, "please don’t smoke to close to my hair so it doesn’t catch on fire."
Name one beauty product that, if everyone used it, would make the world a happier place.
Glitter, because of Trashy Princess.
If you were a pet, whose pet would you be and why?
I like the cats that live at casa Rick Owens. They are those tiger looking ones and climb all over the place. You really got to think about the baby voice one makes when you talk to animals, and whose you could listen to. His voice I could do.
Create a lipstick name and shade that matches your personality?
It would be called "Totally Titty Pink" and would be baby pink.
What’s one beauty trend you’re sick of seeing on Instagram?
The 80 layers of concealer makeup. The covering and camouflage of a face.
What’s one product you can’t leave the house without?
CV skin labs lip balm, it was formulated for cancer patients and you can use it on any body part.
