Copenhagen Fashion Week AW24
Boasted as Danish fashion’s star child, FORZA COLLECTIVE’s Creative Director Kristoffer Kongshaug continues to push the envelope on Scandinavian minimalism, offering a refreshing take with what he calls “utilitarian couture.” His first capsule, rendered entirely in nylon, introduced us to the brand’s enigmatic DNA and for Autumn Winter 2024, he only took that further, maintaining the signature sharp cuts and daring pops of color that we’ve come to love from the brand while delving into new materials and playfully experimenting with transparency. Models strutted down the catwalk to a funky 90s Detroit house soundtrack, which was fitting for a collection that felt like a tribute to the era.
Creative Director Martin Asbjørn redefined modern elegance in his first full REMAIN collection, prioritizing a timeless wardrobe over fleeting trends. The lineup boasted unexpected leather forms, innovative tailoring, and tactile knitwear, set against a muted and moody palette of almost-black hues, raindrop grey, dark cognac, bitter chocolate, and a final set in a lighter lilac. The collection's dynamism was showcased through reimagined suiting, where cropped jackets harmonize with full-length skirts and blazers metamorphose into graceful dresses with balloon hems, offering versatile ensembles perfect for a seamless transition from a day at the office to night out on the town.
Won Hundred celebrated its 20th anniversary with a nod to its roots, taking a nostalgic journey through its design archives, alongside a collaboration with Sweden-based artist Kajsa Willner. The collection stood out with a variety of denim interpretations, offering versatility in styling with different fabrications and prints. Won Hundred's exclusive New Zealand-sourced leather took center stage, shaping glistening trousers designed for a snug yet breathable fit. Puffer jackets, featuring a durable, water-resistant outer and strategically placed pockets, enhance practicality for outdoor excursions.
In their Autumn Winter 2024 presentation, Wood Wood's creative directors, Brooke Taylor and Nana Aganovic, discovered unexpected inspiration in the '70s, embracing warm browns, muted chartreuse, and era-appropriate textures like sumptuous velvet and corduroy, creating a Scandinavian vibe reminiscent of the long-night winters and the yearning for sunshine, captured in the Danish term “solskin.” Titled ‘The Copenhagen Interpretation,’ the collection introduced a more fitted silhouette, drawing heavily from the city’s cultural history, particularly the influence of sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen.
The atmosphere at Henrik Vibskov's fall show underscored his status as an icon in the Copenhagen scene. Recently honored with the Kronprinsparrets Priser culture award for his multidisciplinary mastery and fearless challenges, Vibskov showcased the collection titled "The Daily Chewing Gum Therapy Session." Inspired by dream work scenarios and fragility in the current state of the world, the designer explored familiar silhouettes while experimenting with fabrics, featuring standout coats in heavy houndstooth grids and playful squareish jackets inspired by paper folding.
Beyond fashion, Vibskov's shows offer a larger experience, tapping into the pulse of the world and offering ideas, empathy, and fantasy as antidotes to the chaos that surrounds us. In his musings, he suggests that individual self-care, expressed through creativity and personal style, may be a small yet impactful step in navigating the uncertainties of the world.
Autumn Winter 2024 drew inspiration from the boundless freedom of the sky, channeling the spirit of pioneering female aviators who dared to dream among the clouds. The collection, a celebration of their courage, unfolds with sleek silhouettes, purposeful layering materials, and a nuanced color palette, blending a boyish aesthetic with a distinctive feminine touch. Infused with a mindful choice of fabrics, the highly tactile collection explores the poetry within the historical aviator uniform, marrying form and functionality in each piece.
