ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS' Punk Essence

October 19, 2021

Punk isn't dead, and that was recorded this Spring/Summer season in breakout collections like ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS SS22. Henri Alexander Levi, most known for his creative director role at the brand, affirmed that punk went beyond black nails and pinstripes, punk is an essence. The nectar of punk was extracted and presented in its truest form at l'ecole de medicin through the eccentricity of the production, setting, pace, stride, and fashion.

Anarchy lives within the essence of this brand. This is shown when the design team rejects any sentiment of cheap biase and sticks to the principle that masterfully connects the dark and brooding emotions of Paris and couples it with the childlike delight of LA. Structured leather, lace lining, and graphics are plentiful in this collection — and clean lines and quality fabrications aren't sacrificed. An effortless cool stride and attitude is woven into each garment when light lace with blood-painted red letters are statemented onto a baby-doll dress, oversize pin-striped suits, and leather blazers paired over a vibrant graphic tee are the standout pieces from this collection.

Text by Tiana Randall
Photos courtesy of ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS

And accessories make it that much cooler — the appearance of white dirty knee-length combat boots that stride down the catwalk pretense that this collection is ready-to-wear. The model donned in those boots shine through in structured collared ankle-length dress holds a shining silver gun as a thin metal chain draped across the decolletage of the garment. Along with tinted red and black shades, ovoid-shaped bags, and more complete the collection in its entirety. Watch the show below.

Fashion

Backstage: Prototypes SS25

June 28, 2024

Despite its cultural roots in football, Prototypes doesn’t play around. Their latest collection, Series07 combines previous thematic critiques of commodification with an exploration on the tribalism inherent to football fandom. What you wear is your identity. At this point, the way you signal your beliefs has more impact than your beliefs themselves. For better or for worse, the world has become more about the signifier than the signified. Football is no exception. We are walking billboards for our identities — Prototypes plays on how we quite literally advertise ourselves through garments with phrases like “Fly Emirates” emblazoned on shirts. In football, what you wear indicitively reflects your allegiance. Playing on the monoculturalism of jersey-wearing team devotees, Prototypes explores the blurry line between cultishness and collectivity.

By Izzy Capulong
Photography by Regina Ntahompagz

View the collection below.

Fashion

office people: Betsy Johnson

June 26, 2024

Betsy Johnson is one of those born originators whose work tells us a lot about the absurd reality we're living in. Raised in Grimsby, a small town in northeast England, the Paris-based creative director and stylist's working-class background remains a consistent source of inspiration in her work.

In 2023, Johnson launched PRODUCTS, a project that explores commodity culture, commercialism and class, consistent themes in the visual narratives she constructs. Inherent to her practice, Johnson prefers a DIY approach to everything, conceptualizing entire processes from the ground up. Despite her undeniable influence on contemporary fashion and kickstarting necessary conversations, Johnson sees herself as "uninvolved." "There's a certain kind of danger to feeling too involved," she tells us. "I think the moment I feel involved is the moment I need to move onto something else." Perhaps it's this detachment toward the industry's glitzy facade that garnered so much attention in the first place.

by SAHIR AHMED
photography by SAINT

What is your ideal office?

A space that can transform with me. It’s important to me that all the materials in my studio can be moved easily and that the space is adaptable. My space is mostly free of any work — current or previous. A blank canvas. At some point, a large open-plane hanger style / industrial building will be great. Reverting to warehouse living with my creative family at some point will be interesting in this new chapter of my life. For now, I’m enjoying the juxtaposition of Parisian architecture with my industrial / DIY approach to furniture and also work style.

Have you ever been to a psychic?

It was… insightful.

What’s something you recently wrote down to look at later?

- Answer Office questions

Can you recall a time you experienced déjà vu?

I love an AH-HA moment. They happen often.

What word would you use to describe yourself?

I’m not sure. I’ve been told I’m five people in one. In one word, contradictory.

If someone looked in your trash can right now, what’s the weirdest thing they would find?

Nothing weird, just a lot of useless packaging.

How do you find balance?

I walk or think alone.

If there were anyone from history you could have dinner with, who?

David Bowie.

What draws you to a person?

Their mindset. How they carry themselves in a room even if that means being the quietest.

What’s lacking in your industry?

— normal people.

Order office issue 21.

Fashion

Head of State's Vivid Imagination Materializes in Paris

June 25, 2024

Head of State's Taofeek Abijako has been moving away from traditional runway shows in recent seasons. Instead, he opts for exhibitions that delve deeper into the brand's origins and future intentions. This Paris Fashion Week, Abijako presented Vivid Imagination, the third installment in Head of State's Exhibition Series.

Vivid Imagination reimagines the Aso Oke, a traditional Yoruba cloth handwoven on a loom, with a history dating back to the 15th century. More than just a fabric, Aso Oke symbolizes identity, dignity, and pride, highlighting the enduring legacy of Nigeria's Yoruba community in fashion and culture.

Throughout the exhibition space, the loom and various interpretations of Aso Oke stood in stark contrast to the fast-paced nature of today's fashion industry. Abijako approached the loom's installation with the same meticulous care as his garments, creating "a space for more thoughtful engagement, allowing our audience to digest our narrative at their own pace."

By Sahir Ahmed
Photography by Tom Guez

The exhibition also featured three garments in a muted sky-blue hue, incorporating traditional Yoruba elements such as draped shoulders, beaded accents, and structured lining. These pieces further engaged with the rich heritage of Aso Oke woven garments, exploring its journey, from "humble beginnings as a crop" to "art form and traded good."

Looking ahead, the next iteration of Head of State's Exhibition Series will return to New York City.