Ephemera

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Fashion

MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN SS24

August 10, 2023

Sometimes the line epitomizing a sharply focused (sweet!) and tightly-focused (sour!) collection is so fine that whatever side you pick feels erratic. This Mark Kenly Domino Tan outing walked prettily enough — but often rather customary — right down that line. Or perhaps down a shore, connecting the frenzy paced fashion with the boundlessness of the ocean. Ditto for Spring, the label paid homage to the natural treasure, evidencing inspirations from “the subtle and abstract life in and around the sea to capture the unique atmosphere it brings.” These are garments engaging in a dialogue between the art of conceal and reveal, the straightforward and the notional, with every piece of the Spring lineup speaking to a certain quotidian, almost Puritan-esque 1930s take on preppiness, from slouchy separates to noir-tinged ones. It had a splash of retro grace to it without feeling overly traditional.

Text by Chidozie Obasi
Photos by James Cochrane

This collection was also marked by its greater focus on artisanship and beading, many of them, like the terrific pearls, culling inspiration from Korean diving women, known as the Haenyeo, which literally refers to ocean women. “For generations these women have dived off the southern coast of South Korea without oxygen,” detailed the notes,” explaining that “some of them are up to 90 years old.” And so, this dynamic played out here on the elevation of craftsmanship (this season introduced the brand’s atelier collection), with a soft-meets-tough attitude that was evident in surface embellishments that resembled water droplets trickling across the fabric.

One of the collection’s standouts, a squarely-sized white collar in shades of wick teamed with exquisite embroidery and peplum hemlines, offered a promising hint to a stellar proposal of easy-to-wear elegance that would nicely translate to the world’s sidewalks and beyond. To wit — at a time where designers rely too much on hype and loony experimentation, Mark Kenly Domino Tan is out to prove that ease might be the best resistance.

Fashion

BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN SS24

Still, for all the delightfulness of Baum und Pferdgarten’s detail (like the sleeveless toppers built on flowery textiles), it’s Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten’s references that put a really big tongue firmly placed in cheek. Titled “A Postcard from Copenhagen,” this season explores the city through the eyes of a tourist. An unusual vision for a label that’s been around since the ‘90s, but with its lovely charm and blithe spirit, it has a point.

Innocent yet gently conceived, the designers’ love for deliberately feminine clothes runs directly to the prevailing spectrum of Scandi offerings through a sporty, wearable sensitivity that has, as it turns out, chosen to champion local communities and tradition in this season’s presentation. “Every summer hoards of tourists descend on the city, filling the streets and joining the people of the city in celebrating the sun and reveling in the beauty of such an iconic place,” read the notes. Exactly right. “Maritime life is still inherent and used by Copenhageners: in the winter they jump into the water before running to the sauna, while in the summer they gather at the harbor baths, soaking in the Nordic sun and taking a dip to cool off.”

So, how did the clothes turn out? There were breton stripes, denim sailor hats, striped knit bags and a plethora of deep navy and crisp white. From there in, Hestehave and Baumgarten’s transpositions got just a little wilder — twirling emblems adorned the Queen’s guards uniforms, while Japanese cherry blossoms that bloom at the King’s Garden were fused into prints across the collection; what’s more, crisp cotton patterned with a new brand monogram and quilted textiles were decorated with rich pink florals. A hard sell, for some. But happily for Hestehave and Baumgarten, the Danish market is one of the few that is still bouncing along as if nothing too commercial is entrenching its creative vein. So kudos to them for the focus.

Fashion

MUNTHE SS24

There was a genuine wit to the artsy stuff here, but it served to level-up the atmosphere of Abstraction. “In this collection, we weave a tapestry of rich elements: textiles, art prints, styles, and palettes,” pointed out the designer, explaining that “much like an art exhibition, where each piece, self-assured, flourishes alone while flourishing even brighter within the collective. Creating a unique experience was a driving force behind the Spring 2024 collection; For me, it is an endeavor to stretch the limits of the mind, igniting inspiration that knows no boundaries.” Speaking of references, the label has greatly ticked along this season, avoiding the peaks and troughs that other lines experience. Spring saw a partnership with New York-based artist Heather J. Chontos and London- based artist Aline Gaiad, conceived through vibrant motifs on styles like soft dresses, blouses and feminine skirts.

Munthe specializes in clothing with a quirky vibe and a commercial appeal. It was all breezy, but far from sloppy: sumptuous woven fabrics, resplendent sequins, patchwork denim and vivid patterns worked well, as did intricate jacquard patterns.

There are lots of prickly questions to ponder when it comes to the calibration of fashion and art; without real thought, one risks running into sour crassness. This season, however, these looks didn’t veer in the direction of naive-land. Au contraire: MUNTHE’s artfully articulated, ethically-minded aesthetic continues offering a promising act.