Ephemera

Check out more from the collection below.

Fashion

The "P" in Palm Angels Stands for Paris

March 07, 2023

Palm Angels founder and designer Francisco Ragazzi has tapped refined French culture for the Italian brand's Fall/Winter 2023 collection. Ragazzi emphasized both his and Palm Angels' maturity this season through the consistent metaphor of vintage clothing stores empowered by proximity in various pieces.

Gilded hardware is a constant that Palm Angels utilized within the Fall/Winter 2023 season. Womenswear offers elongated silhouettes through sharp tailoring, while menswear displays Palm Angels' core graphics through luxury materials and a hardware finish.

Ragazzi highlights individuality throughout the brand, as well as this season with pieces such as hoodies that transform into a bib that transforms into a minidress, precious knitwear and shearling, eel skin loafers, handbags, oversized sunglasses, intricate wristwatches and chains.

Text by Marisa Kalil-Barrino
Photos courtesy of Palm Angels

Palm Angels collaborated with Italian brand Tod's to top various looks with the white Tabs sneakers. Ragazzi's goal for this collection and the brand as a whole is to 'create pieces of reality with a dash of magic.'

Fashion

YOOX x Aries

The two brands worked together to create a unisex wardrobe that candidly reflects inclusivity. Aries, the genderless brand inspired by streetwear culture, makes it an unlikely pair for YOOX, which is predominantly an online brand, but it works. Both brands promote a respect for the planet and acknowledge their responsibility to the world and the people who live in it. The point of this capsule is for people to feel together and never excluded. Brothers, sisters, friends, lovers. Every individual can select any garment from this collection and feel comfortable. YOOX and Aries continue to break down the misconceptions that disrupt the liberating power of free expression through fashion.

The collection launches online today, preview the capsule looks below.

Fashion

Ann Demeulemeester's Sexy, Gothic Legacy Lives On

March 06, 2023

When Ludovic de Saint Sernin announced that he was the new creative director of Ann Demeulemeester, he released six portraits by Willy Vanderperre in looks that he selected from the house’s 2000-page archive, reflecting his willingness to enter Demeulemeester's serene, darkly romantic world.

Like Demeulemeester, de Saint Sernin’s approach to clothing is extremely self-involved. He started his own namesake label, LdSS, in 2017 and quickly garnered a cult following drawn to his hedonist aesthetic and gender-fluid approach to clothing. Demeulemeester, who captured a similar audience after starting her brand in 1985, was known for her elegant tailoring and dark yet glamorous aesthetic, and her shows, which were always understated and poetically charged. Although different in their approaches, the two designers share the common threads of autobiography, craftsmanship and romance.

Demeulemeester expressed her departure from the label in 2013 with handwritten missives sent to her team and select members of the press. Touched by this sentiment, de Saint Sernin created his debut collection as a manifestation of this note. Presented at the Lycée Carnot in Paris, the thirty-six looks and show were an experiential love letter that acknowledged Demeulemeester’s legacy and heritage.

Text by Sahir Ahmed
Photos courtesy of Ann Demeulemeester

Ludovic de Saint Sernin found himself, word by word, in Ann. His collection served as a reminder that Demeulemeester is emblematic of more than just streamlined black pantsuits and white shirts that extend to the fingertips — he brought back gothically minimal gowns and revived the house's bold statement of sending models out topless with their arms crossed over their breasts. His perspective invigorated Demeulemeester's legacy with a new energy, informed by the brand's archives, yet relevant to our present moment.

Comprised of elongated silhouettes and sleek profiles typical of the house, the collection reflects a heightened attention to clean lines and genderless silhouettes. Bias-cut silk skirts slithered down to the floor under rough cropped shearling with oversized shearling bags to match; ditto backless halter dresses; sheer and velvet body suits; monochromatic leather ensembles all with an equestrian hint and saddlery details came lurking down the runway.