Ephemera

Check out more from the collection below.

Fashion

Lace, Pearls, and Fringe: Human Nature Worldwide x Converse

February 23, 2023

When we think of lace, the few things that come to mind are gowns, lingerie, and hosiery. For self-taught designer Malachai Spivey, however, lace is a mechanism for pushing the boundaries of gendered fashion. He made this loud and clear at his NYFW debut with Human Nature Worldwide’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection presented at the Converse flagship in Soho.

Choosing the road less traveled, Spivey incorporates conventions of women’s fashion into the line through lace, fringe, and pearl motifs. By wielding these details over structured but oversized silhouettes, the designer embraces feminine style in a space where it is usually contested. Ultimately, it is through this transgression that Spivey transforms streetwear style, urging us to clutch the dualism in our own lives.

Text by Meyme Nakash
Photos courtesy of Human Nature Worldwide

In the collection, this approach is manifested in luxe, two-piece sets paired with customized Converse Chuck Taylor All Stars and Run Star Legacy CX sneakers. On his partnership with Converse, Spivey said, “When it comes to Human Nature Worldwide, I like the idea of using classic styles or silhouettes but bringing them to life in a new way, so it was the perfect fit for me that the two brands work together.” To some extent, his work with Converse can be viewed as a microcosm for his larger project for creating streetwear that ventures into the avant-garde.

Spivey has been on our radar since dressing the likes of Lil Nas X, Aleali May, Coi Leray, and more, in recent years. Through his brand Human Nature Worldwide, he continues to upend long-held notions of gendered fashion and streetwear— transforming the industry one stride at a time.

Fashion

Paris Mumpower's London Fashion Week Scoop

16Arlington

As soon as I saw Alva Claire backstage, I knew it would be a fun show— it's always so nice to see a familiar face in another country. I also knew it was a morning show and all, but as soon as I walked backstage for 16Arlington all I could smell was coffee. Not a normal amount of coffee, the smell consumed the entire room. I then realized that the models were standing on piles and piles of coffee grounds not only backstage but during the show itself. When reading about the show, that's when I learned that the collection was titled “Wake." Marco Capaldo said, "it's about waking up in a new world, and to a new set of circumstances." How fitting!

Ancuta Sarca

There's something that feels so iconic about the shows that take place at The Old Selfridges Hotel and that was no different with Ancuta Sarca. The energy was immaculate. There's a reason every girl on your moodboard is wearing Ancuta from Bella Hadid to Rosalia— the shoes are so original and such a fun hybrid of heels and sportier styles. I hurried up to the second floor to see the presentation and immediately wanted to go on my phone and order every pair I saw afterward.

Chet Lo

Chet Lo's personal presence was undeniable. He was glowing backstage before the show. From running around greeting his people to getting all his models ready for the show, it was clear who was running things and that everyone on board adored him. Needless to say, the designs were intricate and flawless as always, but something about seeing him in action was so special and made me love Chet Lo that much more.

Dilara Findikoglu

Dare I call Dilara my favorite show of the season? "Not a Man's Territory" was so moving. She said it came together as she contemplated the protest that followed the arrest for wearing hijabs "improperly." The show felt like such a masterpiece, each model having their own specific choreography to follow when it was their turn to take the floor. The location was also beautiful. It was inside of this old church where the drip of a leaky faucet echoed throughout the show. I didn't realize until I went to the Piferi showroom today but they styled all the shoes for Dilara’s show! They're one of my favorites right now. (Also, it's always an exciting show when you get to run into Lisa Rinna).

KWK by Kay Kwok

Live performances are one of my favorite things at runway shows. KWK by Kay Kwok opened with a live violin performance followed by smoke filling the room and lights beaming throughout the show. My mind was blown by all the custom chrome looks, the whole show felt so cohesive. They offered the coolest necklaces as takeaway gifts that I’ll be wearing forever from now on.

Sinead Gorey

I walked up a flight of stairs where loud music was blasting and a ton of people were in the hall— I asked if it was the line to the bathroom (assuming the presentation must’ve been on the next floor) but this girl laughed and showed me in— the presentation was a huge party. I was geeked out to find cowgirls everywhere playing cards with huge cowboys. It was such a fun presentation, one girl was even riding an electric bull while others were dancing on tabletops. Being from the Appalachian mountains myself, I give it a southern girl certified “yeehaw."

Fashion

Daniel Lee Puts the Brit Back in Burberry

February 22, 2023

Hotly anticipated, the show we were all waiting for came and delivered— Daniel Lee's first collection for Burberry. Possibly the star moment of London Fashion week, Lee brought London to, well, London with a presentation that channeled the history of the British heritage label. The former helm of Bottega Veneta, renowned for reviving the Italian house, has maintained his proven ability to reshape the past.

Held in a late 19th century Burberry tent at Kennington Park, the show felt in agreement with the brand's historical references to the outdoors. Under the tent’s protection from London weather, guests including Martine Rose, Shygirl and Skepta bore witness to the national threads of pleated tartan kilts, check patterns, and reuniform of Equestrian Knight Design.

Text by India Espy-Jones
Images courtesy of Burberry

Lee's Burberry brought us back to 1909 with a return to the Burberry Prorsum logo, on more simple garments, like dresses, and cleverly tucked between more checkered motifs. As for the iconic Burberry trench coat, Lee opted for an oversized fit with faux fur-trimmed lapels to accompany aran and argyle jumpers as well as a new motif, the English rose. Lee's new iteration is not only pristine but also functional. He amplied sneakers with sturdy colored saddle bags and satchels, and equestrian-style rubber rain boots for journeying into the murky outdoors. Toward the end of the show, with the edgier, more punk-inspired styles, we couldn't help but see it as a possible nod to the legend, the late Vivienne Westwood.