Helmut Lang Seen By: Walter Pfeiffer

When the lights went down and guests cleared off of the catwalk, the production of “Do You Understand?” began in earnest. An expansion into womenswear, skin-clinging fabrics and light, sinewy dresses complexified the story of the brand as they worked their way down the runway, alongside highlights like a strappy, flowing black skirt and olive green cut-out tops. 

The designer’s commitment to best-in-class subversions of menswear classics continued, with a deliciously slitted rugby polo and artfully cut button-downs. Workwear jackets were tailored to a shoulder’s width of perfection in versatile shades of that same olive green, cream, and deep blue. 

The collection marked a compelling evolution in the story of a brand that has made a name for itself in personality, sensual campaigns, and representation of queer, BIPOC bodies. As show notes explained, this season’s offering “was designed to say less; you either get it, or you don’t.” The designer continued: “Fuck the clothes, it’s the tenacity of why they exist in the first place.” 

Nike lent its name to the collection as well, providing support in a satisfying matchup of industry stalwart versus exciting upstart. 

“This show is dedicated to everyone who made this happen. From the bottom of my heart, Thank you. It means so much, because I leave it all in the clothes,” Gbadegesin said.