La Collectionneuse

February 27, 2019

There is an understated romanticism to a Jacquemus silhouette; elegant in its simplicity, bold in its innocence and brimming with sentimentality. While there was no shortage of these strengths displayed on the catwalk at his F/W '19 presentation, designer Simon Porte Jacquemus certainly shook things up a bit with a collection that demonstrated that what’s he’s been serving up the last few seasons aren’t the only ingredients he’s got in the kitchen.

With the concept of “La Collectionneuse” (aka "the collector”) as the aesthetic focal point of the collection, each look represented the coming together of three disparate fields of interest: modernist design, objects of personal value, and bold and expressive color. Construction and character were without a doubt the takeaway moments of the show, as silhouettes oscillated fluidly between the architectural and the playful, giving way to statement pieces such as an expertly crafted fuschia double-face wool trench, a silk gilet with oversized utility pockets, among others.

Text by Kennedy Fairfax
Photos by Clara Delaporte

And if the vibrant pops of pinks, blues, and oranges didn’t get you there, than the way in which the designer explored sensuality in the aesthetic realm surely did. The sensual slits and slips of sun-kissed skin that we’ve all come to love were reimagined with a more masculine energy, thus feminine pieces like pantsuits and skirt-and-sweater combos were infused with structural tailoring with a workwear edge. Sensuality has never looked so composed, and avant-garde has never been so wearable—this collection, in no small part, is a powerful representation of the evolving conceptions of the Jacquemus woman.

See some of our favorite looks from backstage, below.

Fashion

Total Recall

Born in the Moroccan town of Tétouan and educated in Paris, Khattabi’s upbringing required him to make sense of how the different influences surrounding him could align. In turn, his designs explore the embedded codes and history of his bicultural background. Total Recall addresses this phenomon by including garments meant to reflect adaptation and transformation. Skirts made of tire covers and motorcyle tarpaulins refashioned into dresses are scattered across the collection, conveying notions of displacement. Blending these elements adds an industrial touch to the pieces while still keeping a sense of movement.

From sweatpants infused with polka dots to nostaglic slogans and banner display, the ensembles symbolize hidden identities and memories. Giving us a glimpse into his own memories, Khattabi's work evokes affection for the past. It's a nod to the interconnectedness of culture and how we interact with its complexitites creatively. View the collection below.

reward if found is available at LN-CC, 10 Corso Como, Gr8, Opener, and more selected retailers globally.

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Dr. Martens x MM6 Maison Margiela reveal their first capsule collection

November 12, 2024

Dr. Martens and MM6 Maison Margiela have teamed up for the first time to launch a Fall/Winter capsule collection that reinvents classic footwear with a fresh twist. The collection combines four iconic Dr. Martens styles—the 1460 and 1490 boots, the 1461 shoe, and the Penton loafer—into three unique hybrid designs, each with MM6’s special touch.

Revealed at MM6 Maison Margiela’s AW24 show, these designs mix familiar Dr. Martens silhouettes in surprising ways, adding bold new details. Each piece has Dr. Martens’ signature yellow stitching and AirWair heel loop, along with MM6’s unique numbered imprint.

The Dr. Martens x MM6 Maison Margiela collection launches November 19 on both brands’ websites, in select MM6 stores, and at limited retailers.