The livestream for the menswear brand's runway show for their L'Oasi Di Lino summer collection below streamed from Milan on Monday, June 17th at 4pm CET / 10am EST and has now ended.
Watch the recording below:
At any rate, plenty of the pieces had appeal, particularly the knitwear and the skirt-pant combo done in neutral shades and earthy tones, which added a preppy throughline to the brand’s style lexicon. “For the first time ever, we developed an arsenal of knitwear!” exclaimed Dahl, expanding on the usage of materials from 1800 and 1900, which are the very first groundings for anything she studies on a visual scale. Another caveat was the palette. “There’s color, so much color!” she then said, most of which didn’t come as strident as some of her creative counterparts who were present in Berlin. Elsewhere, volume looked particularly good, as did the maxi-shaped fastenings emblazoned across outerwear numbers and oversized toppers.
Dahl’s vision of soft functionality wasn’t authentic, but for the SF10G customer it ought to prove convincing: and at the end of the day, that is the point. There were lots of individually appealing pieces that juxtaposed sports-like crispness with casual tailoring, serving up a “severe nonchalance” to the designer’s lane. “To me, this collection feels like a personal growth,” concluded Dahl. “I always want to go further, and breaking new ground across the realm of functional wear is forever a must.” All in all, though, this made for a fascinating — and perhaps even risk-taking — effort, which was pleasing to see.
For Shui, this collection is about claiming and standing in your power. Even the color palette — deep oxbloods, vibrant greens, and bright cherry reds — evokes intensity, inspired by Kazuo Shiraga Gutai’s paintings.
Signature Shui elements found their way into this collection, including lace detailing and printed mini dresses, but other intentional design choices are specific to the range, like corseted leather jackets and brazen shoulder pads. These symbolize structure and support, bracing the Kim Shui woman for whatever life throws her way — even though she doesn’t need clothing to reinforce that strength, it’s already inside of her.
Backstage offered a closer look into just how fierce every look was, amplified by sultry makeup. Siren eyes were complimented by candy-like shellacked lips and the final accessory touches — futuristic Poppy Lissiman and Akila sunglasses and fingerless gloves — were just the cherry on top of every look.
After the show, office went backstage to speak to Hillary Taymour about her A/W 2024 collection. Read our conversation below.
Hi Hillary! Congratulations on such a beautiful show.
Thank you, thank you.
What were you the most excited for people to see from this collection?
The feminine strength that we can all have. Pushing the chaos of navigating this world and being able to push through, with this strong sense of the feminine.
Last season, you were meditating on this feeling of, “everything is burning.” This season there seems to have been little bit of a shift emotionally to focus on strength—
It’s still like, how can we get through it? Like, fuck this. We gotta do something. [Laughs] We gotta get it together.
On a personal level, when do you feel the strongest? What has been giving you this feeling of strength over the last six months?
Honestly, I feel strong when I'm surrounded by my team and we all are working together and I'm like, “wow.” Like last night, we're all up at three in the morning going, going, going. I started crying. I was like, “This is so beautiful that we're all just in perfect sync and harmony and pushing through together.”
I love that.
I love my team!
Last season you incorporated the use of AI in a very unorthodox way to design a collection. Moving into this season, was there any lingering influence from having mixed up the process in that way?
We worked with stable diffusion to create that video [hanging above the runway]. I was like, this block is chaotic, people's interpretation was chaotic. So I just wanted to create the most chaotic thing possible for your viewing pleasure.
And I did enjoy viewing it!
Thank you, I’m glad. I think it’s still playing, you can watch it as you walk out.
Where did the concept for “stronger” come from? Was there a specific moment for you?
It came from women dressing women. Women dressing women.
It’s been about 15 years now since you started Collina in college—
Way to age me!
I’m sorry! But, I mean, you know, in that time, a lot of growth and maturing happens. How do you feel like the Collina woman has evolved or matured over the years since you started?
I feel like it just gets more and more confident. And like, I get more and more like myself. I don't get scared to go that extra way. I don't need to play favorites, I don’t need to play the game, I can just be myself.
Thank you so much for taking the time to speak with me.
Thank you!
