It is because of, and not despite, its ironic playfulness that Medea continues to tread new territory for modern sophistication by offering elegant, functional styles that are reminiscent of the 90’s. After all, who in the right mind would run errands without their jeans-inspired shopping bag?
In 1993 GUESS Europe began in Florence, with the opening of the first European GUESS store in the city in 1994. 30 years later, in the same city that’s rooted in the brand's history, a new era of denim is announced. GUESS JEANS launches with an immersive exhibition exploring THE NEXT 40 YEARS OF DENIM.The exhibition embarks upon a curated exploration of GUESS's storied past with a denim focused retrospective paying homage to the brands humble beginnings, and meteoric rise. This journey into the denim archives unveils the brand's pivotal role in revolutionizing the industry with the popularization of stonewash jeans in 1981, a defining moment that reshaped the denim landscape forever.
The ethereal “Stone to Air” installation introduces GUESS AIRWASH, an industry-defining stone-washing process, which places GUESS JEANS at the forefront of eco-conscious innovation.
Magliano took a more freewheeling approach to accessories, too; you could picture a lot of the maxi bags and sculpturally-shaped earrings being rather adventurous and soft when juxtaposed with the sharpness of the garments’ cuts. But their sartorial feel was generally a good match for this designer’s spare, precise sensibility and his strength as a tailor. Magliano delivered in the suiting department, showing dagger, lean cuts in a neutral gamut of hues, occasionally decorating the hem of a puffy trench with a cinched waistline and a slightly futuristic touch.
Season after season, Magliano has garnered an impressive reputation for stealthy luxurious garb that happens to be loved crazily. So what’s the secret? A chic, dare-not-freak conundrum that tangentially reveals a lot about the frenzy pace of out times, as it happens. “I’m learning to appreciate craft as I go,” he says, pointing to the hot pursuit for consumption that’s speedily exacerbating the industry and the world at large.
“At the brand, I want clothes to breathe into the airwaves of longevity and craftsmanship as we first came to know it, as opposed to producing huge scales for the sake of taste.” Here, one can say that the buzz (or, more accurately, the high-frequency vibration) about Magliano lies in a paradox that’s shaping the contemporary fashion scene: nonsense fashion. However, at a time when seeking out creative anonymity in clothes is continuing to be, ahem, fashionable, his approach hits the full mark. “This season, we call this tailoring subversion a gentle sabotage of the shape, referencing the elegance of a wealth of women who have shaped Italian culture and whose allure stands the test of time.”
And while we’re at it, there were beautifully constructed coats to check out. Take one in a camel, with a loose waist, a subtle line and a vent in back. Or another cut into a narrow collarless early noughties shape, which makes a nice nod to a start of season without screeching maximalism. Or yet again, a body-hugging man’s overcoat that transcends trends. Fleeing from excess is no easy feat, but here’s hoping that this season’s tasteful practicality will turn into a blockbuster hit for Magliano, as his clothes nicely evolve each season.
Saying that, some of the standout garments were the dresses, particularly a sublimation printed mesh dress coupled with its all-sheer minimal counterpart. Reworked to often feature a decadent edge, the coats were among the most desirable elements of the collection, alongside the reworked accessories staples. The iconic leather and animal-printed pattern appear in many fabrics for both men and women, with a particular emphasis on maxi prints. The intense sense of breeziness seeped through pretty much everything, but the designer was clever in not dissipating a heavy dose of practicality into the mix, particularly in the menswear. For the Italians, this brand, with its hints of streetwear culture — the denim, roughness and overly functional fabrics — might conjure up a mood of simplicity. But the youngsters might come across a far fresher side of its DNA, that the designer is pushing to new heights. That, to some extent, could continue to broaden its appeal — though for an unapologetic fan of ultra-functionality, that’s the relief (should that be how you wanna call it) of knowing the designer will keep growing his selection of ultra (in fact, extra!) billowing garb. And on that note, there was plenty there to charm.
