Looking back at the internal developments since last season's showcase, what did you do differently in terms of design?
MMAM— A variety of materials that were not used last season, such as 100 wool and silk chiffon, were used harmoniously. We also used sustainable quilting padding. This season, the concept was further strengthened for brand identity. We developed new fabrics to express the minimalism of the 90s with a focus on doodle drawing.
CHARM'S— We have further explored captivating outfits and unique details through curves and straight lines.
KIMMY J— Last season, we developed designs focusing on looks for festivals or special holidays that escape everyday life, but this time, we focused on comfort, practicality, and functionality as travel looks that can be taken right out of everyday life. If you look closely at our looks, you will find that there are many design elements within them. It might be fun to see the hidden functionality.
MMAM
Drawing inspiration from the minimalist aesthetic of her '90s childhood, Park Hyun, MMAM's designer, reimagines traditional pieces like raincoats, trench coats, and blazers. Graffiti doodles breathe new life into classic silhouettes, both elegant and airy with a playful charm.
What message do you want your design to convey on the New York fashion stage?
MMAM— When I think about my childhood in the '90s, I remember the time when I couldn't wait to grow up and become a great adult. Quail luxury minimalism; we reinterpreted the minimalism of the 90s to add brand identity and value.
CHARM’S— This collection was inspired from the verse, "We loved the stars so much that we are no longer afraid of the night," and focused on encapsulating the challenging energy that is directed towards a goal, through the music, the image of the models and styling, in line with the concept.
KIMMY J— Everyone has the right to be beautiful. Our clothes are beautiful no matter who wears them. With delicate production and styling, the density and details of the look come to life no matter who wears it. That's why our collection is presented through models of different body types and ethnicities.
CHARM'S
MMAM's light and breezy feel flowed seamless into CHARM's contrasting dark and dystopian ambiance. CHARM'S design approach is consumer-centric, with a focus on crafting fun and innovative pieces that instill wearers with confidence and grace; the looks were fearless and futuristic.
The show had a lot of statement pieces. What piece of work means the most to you and why?
MMAM— The first signature look, our brand is inspired by unconscious behavior and designs. We are evolving every season, but this season's first look is the most updated version of our brand's long-standing signature.
CHARM’S— The glossy cropped jacket ensemble embodies the concept of moving towards the goal, reflecting the evolution of this season's design elements most effectively.
KIMMY J— I think the clothes worn by Shownu and the male model right in front of him are the most meaningful. I think this is an outfit that was carefully created by wearing several similar outfits and considering the most important aspects of practicality, detail, and design. Suitable for hiking and other activities, the outerwear function was applied to the bottoms to provide added warmth with a luxurious mood. Laptop storage space behind the back where you can separate and store important belongings such as cell phone or AirPod payment method.
KIMMY J
The final part of the show caught the audience by surprise; two skaters in puffer jackets rolled down the runway for the opening of Kimmy J's showcase. Kimmy J.'s collection exuded an icy-cool and refreshing vibe, with headphones, legwarmers, fuzzy and cozy materials, ear warmers, and winter accessories intertwined with puffer jackets and streetwear attire.
How would you summarize the show?
MMAM— When I think about my childhood in the 90s, I remember the time when I couldn't wait to grow up and become a great adult. Am I now the adult I thought I would be? I hope everyone becomes the wonderful adult I dreamed of back then.
CHARM'S— I wanted to convey a sense of speed, and I feel like we achieved that with sharp features and hair that appeared to be running.
KIMMY J— One word: traveler. We hope people will think of traveling while wearing our clothes, whether in the city or anywhere else. Both a mental journey and a physical journey.
Lopez also revealed a new seasonless ready-to-wear line with a price point that sits under $500. LUAR BASICS is his attempt to merge "upper class taste and the average person's shopping budget," inspired by a time in his life when clothes that "looked good, and felt good" were inaccessible. Other collaborations also showed up on the runway, from Starface x LUAR to a multi-season partnership with Moose Knuckles. Of the partnership with Starface, Lopez says that what drew him to the brand was its similar commitment to self-expression, and their use of their platform to build bridges between people. Drawing inspiration from vintage styles, Moose Knuckles' fur-adorned puffer jackets and cropped bombers glistened with the same luster as the supple leather trench coats that swept across the runway.
As Lopez continues to redefine what it means to be a disruptor in fashion, it is clear that the designer isn’t just making clothes; he’s creating an ethos, one where cultural transformations and personal identities interlace.
“Coming Up Roses” takes a padded approach to the silhouettes in the collection, bringing a sense of ostentatious excess and playfulness to seemingly mundane pieces. This approach is precisely why the collection works so well. Clarks, as a house that has perfected its craft over decades — or centuries, for that matter, given its founding in 1825 — provides an incredibly stable foundation as a brand for a creative innovator like Rose to take risks. The collection also benefits from a healthy dose of nostalgia, taking great inspiration from Clarks’ iconic 80s ad campaigns. Rose also reflects on her own nostalgia for the brand and her early adolescent experiences with it, making the collaboration one that is not only incredibly vibrant but also earnestly sentimental.
Rose echoes this sentiment with her personal recollections, adding a layer of sincerity to the mix. She explains, "The collection was about comfort and this overblown feeling of softness and squidginess, so it felt easy and natural to create that feeling around bedding. It’s all about engaging with people, using memory and familiarity as a way of connecting. Clarks is such a familiar household name, it’s been a part of all of our lives so there’s an automatic intimacy that you have by default from Clarks being in your life for so long. Everything from start to finish has been with the broadness of the mainstream in mind."
Shop the Clarks and Martine Rose “Coming Up Roses” collection here.
