Beyond the brilliant accessories and outerwear staples rendered in wacky (and savvy) color-blocking moments, reality-check wardrobe essentials like maxi bags, neutral cardis, sharp collars, slim but not tight trousers, and the perfect pair of sunnies rounded the collection, renewing the arsenal of classics with new a push on volumes. “The Rite of Spring has inspired generations of musicians to reinvent themselves,” explained Miuccia Prada in the notes, expanding on the fact that “seasons have been the most consistent theme in all schools of painting. fashion aspires to the same effect of renewal.” Representing the things you were not aware you needed but you suddenly would be thrilled to have were a chalk-gray coat teamed with a plush mustard round neck, or a double-breasted suit with patent loafers. The proportions looked just right, with an approach that made sense stylistically, although it lacked sizzle. Thank goodness for those sharply-cut overcoats.
As someone who loves themed collections, Dsquared2 seemed to realize they can fully let go. And even though this season’s variation had a clear outline from the outset, their Fall rendition felt more conducive to the spectrum of their practice (and clients): the staples delivered good execution and high drama, through structured silhouettes along stylized separates. This expression of attitude came in the form of vintage look shearlings and patched and worn denim, dominating the men’s day looks. By night, twins get a glow up, ranging from transparent chiffon shirts with studs details that open to the waist, low slung pants with a flared ankle in sparkling velvet or glossy printed python leather, a silver sequin bomber and pants and slinky lurex knits worn with clutches featuring back to back D2 gold hardware. Worn suede duffels and Gothic Belt Bags in jacquard knits are juxtaposed with D2 clutches for both men and women in satin and python printed leather. Elsewhere, sneakers, army and Sasquatch boots make way for slightly heeled men’s boots, and high heeled delicate ankle strap pumps for women—both styles elongating the leg and providing a sense of chic-grit.
Dsquared2 is an all-time keen observer of nightlife. With a new, coming-of-age generation of youthful dressers, the brand’s wardrobes must come with a twist, so they keep their propositions as flexible as possible. It will be interesting to see how their young client base bends this lineup to reality. It’s also very possible that Dean and Dan — both witty and commercially-savvy — will eventually have to pick between two worlds. No stress for now.
The dualist cross-reference also provided a neat solution to the arsenal of layered staples: from a sartorial standpoint, the neutral touches and their wealth of creative touchpoints remain a mainstay amid the menswear offerings, answered by the house by way of transcending trends and uniting a deep throughline that focuses on longevity. The technicalities were pleasing to see: lines from European-like appeal brim aplenty, ranging from the old-meets-new techniques such as the Casentino blanket wools and the smooth loden. “I love teaming an oversize coat with trousers tucked right into the boot, appearing almost like tights because I believe it’s an attitude that gives a new life (and shape),” she said, expanding on the fact that “coats had an important play on volume, which add a refreshing silhouette to the tailored trouser and a sense of ease too, diving into the wild side of the collection — which looks to break away from the city culture into nature-like settings.” The breezy, generous volumes conveyed across the outerwear pieces brought a new lightness of touch to a lineup that sometimes erred on the side of severity. Fisherman’s coats and waterproof wax jackets in canvas run side-by-side with opulent bombers and peacoat shapes, engineering one another with shaved trompe l’oeil shearling piping and seams.
Innocent and gently practical, Fendi’s love for deliberately fuss-free clothes runs directly counter to the prevailing art of conceal and reveal: the clean, innocent and Italian traditional sensitivity of the Fendi man is steadily meeting, as it turns out, a subtly sensual undertone. An interesting direction, which showcases the brand’s broad vocabulary in continuous expansion, which also featured washed denim and mohair textures looped and shredded. The smartly tailored pants and jackets with billowing sleeves that closed the show were partial winners, but not so the sheer shirting which were far from being winter-appropriate. All in all, the collection hit a quasi-perfect note: never dropping to the depths of flatness, but looking streamlined, poised and technically seductive.
