Myar's Modern Military

Founder Andrea Rosso looked to his love of vintage shopping and his background in design when he started the label in 2015. He studied pattern-making at university, and designed at Diesel 55, but after continuing on at Diesel in licensing— Rosso realised he missed design, and started Myar on the side.

Andrea would always find military clothing when thrifting and loved the functionality of the clothing and material, it was a natural direction to go in.

Talking about them in relation to vitality, as if they are going through a certain cycle of life.

Emphasizing with passion on how he is breathing a second life into these military clothes, using this past that was often bloody and destructive and turning it into a positive and contemporary platform for self expression. The idea and the general conceptions of the military is something he plays with.

Wanting to turn the negatives of the army into something positive, and in regards to his camoflauge prints fusing two past enemies into one. Only introducing camo in his latest collection he thinks of the print as a “new camo” rather than hiding oneself the camo is meant to reveal.

He studies the camo prints of different armies, paints on top and in some garments even prints another countries camo on top of another, in a way changing the concepts of history, fusing past enemies together.

Nostalgia is another big part of Myar, the history of the clothes, the hands it’s been in and the countries they come from plays a big role in the brand. Each garment and the packaging tells a part of history, is stamped with the initial of the country where it comes from, the usage of the garments, and the years that it was active.

The longevity of the clothes relate to the consumer as well, and Andrea notes that he doesn’t like to design for a certain age group or gender. He says that "older generations love his clothes for the nostalgia", and the younger consumer appreciates the originality of the pieces the gender of who is wearing it is secondary.

Myar is a profoundly modern force in that it produces no waste, carries the strength and wisdom of the past and beholds a cool craftsmanship unlike many other unisex brands.

Fashion

Manifestations of Jeff

December 05, 2024

Alter-egos manifest in different ways. Designer Moni Jiang’s Graduate Collection at Central Saint Martins dives deep into hers, a man named Jeff. Jeff doesn’t care, he’s resourceful, he fearlessly makes mistakes and looks good while doing it. He finds random clothing in his closet, accessories on the street, and somehow pulls it all together.

This exploration marks a significant moment in her journey as a designer and stylist. She blends streetwear culture and 1920’s opulence to bring us into Jeff’s world. Inspired by the memory of her grandfather, the collection is innovative in its use of materials. A corset constructed with 3,600 bobby pins and a puffer jacket covered with thousands of rhinestones simply makes sense in the universe she creates.

office sat down with the mastermind herself to talk all things Jeff.

Interview by @abbydillingham
Creative Direction @ferrrariboi
Styling @ferrrariboi
Photography @billiejstringer
HMU @at0_1ee
Models @temisaama @cakarefe
Assistants @halbutlerr @timsoliman

I'm really fascinated by how you brought this character to life, when did Jeff first appear to you?

It's kind of funny how this whole thing started. So I actually used to live in New York, years back. And one day, when I went thrift shopping, I found this worker's shirt, and it said Jeff on it. I think it was like someone's work shirt. And I thought that was super cool, so I bought it, and that sort of became my alter ego. And I kind of just started using that as my name for dating sites, all sorts of online shit. So it was very random.

I love that. Can you take me through a classic day in the life of Jeff? What is he doing? Where is he going? Who is he hanging out with?

I don't think there is a classic day in his life, because it's always different, like he's always doing things on a whim, you know. He just wakes up and he would do whatever the fuck he wants. It's all quite random. And I sort of like that. The fact that he doesn't stick to a routine, because I feel like that's how it's supposed to be for him, because he's not tied to anything. He's not confined, like he has no limits, so he kind of just, like, does everything and anything he wants, whenever, wherever.

Yeah, totally. And I read that a lot of the inspiration for Jeff came from your grandfather. How do you feel like Jeff embodies him?

Actually, initially, I feel like I didn't even see it. But as I was making the collection I sort of saw my grandpa's shadow within the collection. And I feel like it's because, like my grandfather himself, he used to be this super careless, fearless and free soul who never gave a fuck about what anyone else said. And he was always sort of in his own little bubble kind of thing. He had no friends, I think he didn't mind that. You know, that's just like part of his personality, he didn't care. So I think this collection was also sort of an attempt to revive his spirit through this alter ego that I've created.

For sure, I love that. I think especially when you're designing something, sometimes you don’t even see the inspiration until it's done. And it's really cool, because it's kind of subconscious.

You use a variety of materials, did you use any in the beginning that you thought would be a small detail that ended up being kind of central to the collection?

Yeah, actually, I think the first piece that I made for this collection was the hat. So that was kind of like, where the whole thing started. Because, like the hat, it kind of was a representation of repetitions. And I was like, oh so it's something that he keeps doing over and over again, like a mistake that he keeps making over and over again. This whole collection is basically Jeff's attempt to look posh or glamorous, but with things that he found. It's a bit like how as a kid, you would gel your hair back to look like you were older or wrap blankets around you to make a gown kind of thing. The whole thing is meant to be playful and really just random.

Yeah, especially like the childhood spirit of just working with whatever you have at home or in your parents closet and just making it happen.

Yeah, totally.

So you pulled some influence from streetwear culture and 1920s opulence. Does that era in particular inspire you at all? Would you say it inspires Jeff?

I think it's not about clothes from that era or details. It's mostly about the spirit and like, what people know that era as. It’s the glam and the lavish lifestyle.. And I think that's how Jeff is, that's how I want Jeff to be. He doesn't care about what other people think, he just wants to show off as much as he can. He just wants to put himself out there and be seen. Like he's just a walking spotlight.

Yes! I see that for him. It's kind of this balance between unconventional and conventional. And I guess my last question would be, how do you feel like, we all can be more like Jeff? How can we be inspired by him?

I think, really just go easy on yourself and allow yourself to make mistakes, because I feel like that's what I’ve struggled with for the longest time, because when I make things, I feel like I'm too much of a perfectionist, and I have a little bit of OCD when it comes to my work

Yeah, don't we all.

Yeah and, because of that, I've actually suffered a lot throughout my creative process over the years, because I can always do one thing 10 times just to make it perfect. But I feel like at the end of the day it's kind of pointless, because in the end, you're really just gonna see the overall image. And I think that's how it works with styling as well. Like, when I was working with other stylists, they didn't care that much about that one little fold in the skirt. You know, they care more about the overall image on the screen. And also, because, like on set, everything moves so fast, you can't just be fixated on one little detail. So, yeah just chill (laughs), like chillax.

Literally (laughs) just relax. I feel like everyone just needs to relax.

Yeah (laughs), everyone needs to chillax.

Fashion

Michele Lamy Joins HOUSE BY® for an Art Collaboration

This limited edition series of 700 signed pieces, is avaiable now online.

Fashion

Vans x Sterling Ruby Return with New Collection

December 03, 2024

Vans and artist Sterling Ruby are teaming up again for a bold second collection through OTW by Vans, launching on December 5, 2024. The seven-piece lineup includes footwear and apparel inspired by Ruby’s art, featuring deep green and gold tones, rotting jack-o-lantern graphics, and monster claw motifs.

The collection includes four shoe designs, such as the Old Skool 36 and Sk8-Hi 38, crafted with premium materials like goatskin and sustainable cotton. It also introduces apparel with striking graphics and a bold slogan: “ABSOLUTE CONTEMPT FOR TOTAL SERENITY.”

Punk band Mannequin Pussy stars in the campaign, photographed by Nayquan Shuler during a live performance. Prices range from $125 to $200 and will be available at otw.vans.com starting December 5.