Myar's Modern Military

Founder Andrea Rosso looked to his love of vintage shopping and his background in design when he started the label in 2015. He studied pattern-making at university, and designed at Diesel 55, but after continuing on at Diesel in licensing— Rosso realised he missed design, and started Myar on the side.

Andrea would always find military clothing when thrifting and loved the functionality of the clothing and material, it was a natural direction to go in.

Talking about them in relation to vitality, as if they are going through a certain cycle of life.

Emphasizing with passion on how he is breathing a second life into these military clothes, using this past that was often bloody and destructive and turning it into a positive and contemporary platform for self expression. The idea and the general conceptions of the military is something he plays with.

Wanting to turn the negatives of the army into something positive, and in regards to his camoflauge prints fusing two past enemies into one. Only introducing camo in his latest collection he thinks of the print as a “new camo” rather than hiding oneself the camo is meant to reveal.

He studies the camo prints of different armies, paints on top and in some garments even prints another countries camo on top of another, in a way changing the concepts of history, fusing past enemies together.

Nostalgia is another big part of Myar, the history of the clothes, the hands it’s been in and the countries they come from plays a big role in the brand. Each garment and the packaging tells a part of history, is stamped with the initial of the country where it comes from, the usage of the garments, and the years that it was active.

The longevity of the clothes relate to the consumer as well, and Andrea notes that he doesn’t like to design for a certain age group or gender. He says that "older generations love his clothes for the nostalgia", and the younger consumer appreciates the originality of the pieces the gender of who is wearing it is secondary.

Myar is a profoundly modern force in that it produces no waste, carries the strength and wisdom of the past and beholds a cool craftsmanship unlike many other unisex brands.

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K.NGSLEY Dares Fans to Dream in Third Collection

When the lights went down and guests cleared off of the catwalk, the production of “Do You Understand?” began in earnest. An expansion into womenswear, skin-clinging fabrics and light, sinewy dresses complexified the story of the brand as they worked their way down the runway, alongside highlights like a strappy, flowing black skirt and olive green cut-out tops.

The designer’s commitment to best-in-class subversions of menswear classics continued, with a deliciously slitted rugby polo and artfully cut button-downs. Workwear jackets were tailored to a shoulder’s width of perfection in versatile shades of that same olive green, cream, and deep blue.

The collection marked a compelling evolution in the story of a brand that has made a name for itself in personality, sensual campaigns, and representation of queer, BIPOC bodies. As show notes explained, this season’s offering “was designed to say less; you either get it, or you don’t.” The designer continued: “Fuck the clothes, it’s the tenacity of why they exist in the first place.”

Nike lent its name to the collection as well, providing support in a satisfying matchup of industry stalwart versus exciting upstart.

“This show is dedicated to everyone who made this happen. From the bottom of my heart, Thank you. It means so much, because I leave it all in the clothes,” Gbadegesin said.

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Marc Kalman's Still Kelly

For Kalman, Still Kelly represents more than just his take on streetwear — it’s a platform to showcase his close-knit community of friends and collaborators. The brand’s first lookbook, photographed by Winter Vandenbrink and styled by Pau Avia, reflects Kalman's commitment to thoughtful, enduring design over gimmicks. Preview the lookbook below.

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Coco Cultr Drops a New Line of Jersey Dresses

October 24, 2024

There’s something inherently demanding about transforming traditional silhouettes into new ones. Jesa Chiro proves she’s up to the challenge with her new collection of vintage basketball jerseys that have been refashioned into mini dresses. This modernization of classic pieces is central to Chiro’s brand, COCO CULTR. Founded in 2020, the brand is marked by its dedication to handmade garments, countering the fast-paced industry it inhabits. Chiro's most recent drop is a fresh take on femininity, taking stereotypically masculine pieces and crafting them to fit a more feminine audience. All the while, making more room for women to participate in streetwear culture.

Text by Abby Dillingham
Photography by Liv Solomon
Creative direction by Sarah Daoui and Jesa Chiro
Designed and styled by Jesa Chiro
Models Emily Hime, Celeste Luz, Jade Croo, Alissa Sugawara, Jordan Ford, Sarah Daoui

This collection in particular was inspired by a 1995 runway show by African designer Lamine Kouyaté, who collaborated with Puma for his brand Xuly-Bët. He created a collection of jerseys using all recycled materials. "Kouyaté’s words about reimagining synthetic materials that aren’t biodegradable struck me: 'These are modern fabrics... you could reinvent them instead of letting them rot,'" Chiro reflects.

By turning basketball jerseys into dresses, Chiro challenges our understanding of streetwear by taking it out of its stereotypical context. The dresses fuse elements of Black culture, sportswear, and femininity. This combination has resulted in innovative clothing that pulls from nostalgia while bringing in a contemporary twist. She recently debuted the dresses at Procell, a downtown vintage curator and storefront.