Gabriel’s first CamperLab collection will be shown in January for the A/W ’20 season. office can’t wait to see what the designer has in store.
Bryan Barrientos
Juana tells the story of Bryan Barrientos’ mother, who migrated to the United States at 19. Through this thesis collection, he delves into the ongoing immigration crisis while exploring the experience of being a first-generation American. With deep admiration for his mother's resilience, the designer uses all-white garments to focus on the interplay of shadows and highlights within the materials.
Barrientos’ designs incorporate traditional Peruvian textures and silhouettes, with woven fabrics and natural dyes forming the foundation of each piece. With a background in evening wear, which he studied during his undergraduate years at FIT, he is a natural storyteller, skillfully using shape and volume to convey his family’s history to the audience.
Yoon Seo Lee
Yoon Seo Lee is a streetwear designer whose 2024 collection draws inspiration from her childhood experiences trying to outsmart the TSA while traveling with her family. When she was young, she attempted to sneak her pet lizard into her suitcase, an act that would later shape the theme of her collection, aptly titled The Smuggler. The collection explores the concept that everyone has something they wish to hide—whether it's physical items or emotional baggage.
Through the use of 3D-printed details, Lee conveys the idea of concealing objects in plain sight, creating space where hidden elements can be folded. Many of the fabrics featured in the collection are sourced directly from her home in South Korea, adding a personal touch to each piece and grounding the futuristic designs in her cultural heritage.
Brunela Ramirez
Titled Collection 0, Brunela Ramirez's debut explores the intricacies of world-building, much like the work of visionary film directors. Just as they craft immersive environments to evoke their inner emotions, Ramirez uses fashion to construct a narrative that reflects her own perception of reality. Born in Lima, Peru, her designs feature structured silhouettes, a nod to her deep research on how people adapt to their surroundings, and the influence of environment on personal identity.
Driven by a commitment to creating genderless fashion, Ramirez constantly seeks unconventional methods in her design process. She embraces the challenge of reimagining classic silhouettes in a way that is authentic to her vision as a designer, while also aligning with her values of sustainability. Most of the fabrics she uses are sourced from FABSCRAP, an organization focused on recycling and repurposing textiles, highlighting her dedication to eco-conscious fashion practices.
Eunhae Cho
It takes time for fossils to develop in nature. Eunhae Cho was fascinated by their slow development, naming her final collection Memory Fossils due to the unique colors, shapes, and textures of these bony structures.
Utilizing the concept of modularity, her garments can be adjusted, allowing individuals to create their own variation of the looks. As she puts it, “ the wearer becomes the artist.” The twisted patterns allow the pieces to expand and shift, making them as unique and dynamic as fossils themselves. Cho views this lineup as a fresh beginning, using deeply personal materials and textures. She began working on the pieces over winter break in Korea, initially planning to omit their wear and tear, but after experimenting with a swatch, she decided to incorporate it as a defining element of the collection.
Talia Abbe
Tabbe Designs, the label created by Talia Abbe, debuted its collection titled Bubble Wrap at the FIT MFA showcase. Inspired by the positive and negative stimuli of the world, the designs reflect how people respond to their lived experiences. The collection serves as an introspective exploration of the gap between what we outwardly perceive vs. what’s happening internally. During the pandemic, Abbe’s personal struggles with mental health inspired her to create a representation that would show people they are not alone.
Although the theme is inherently heavy, she aimed to make the pieces fun and playful, showcasing the strength of community—a place where people feel comfortable and supported. The idea for the latex inflatables in the line came to Abbe during her first year of research, combining the sensation of tightness, representing suffocation, with the inflated form that suggests a protective layer.
The organization is led by Executive Director Felitia Harris. Designers I spoke with described her as someone they aspire to be. Harris is a beloved connector, driven by her mission to provide black designers with the support and resources that have diminished in recent years. Her strategy centers on fostering inclusivity from within. Since the project’s founding in 2020, following the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement, RAISE has tapped into fashion’s existing community, using it as a platform to increase racial equity in the industry through collaboration.
Each year, the organization provides select designers with a seasonal grant, which comes with pro bono consulting to help emerging labels refine their strategic marketing efforts. This year’s spring preview featured brands ranging from Keith Herron’s Cali-based Advisry to Kingsley Gbadegesin’s justice-focused K.NGSLEY. Their garments were showcased alongside a new 90s luxury line by Abercrombie & Fitch, a sponsor of the event. Abercrombie collaborated with Janae Harmon and TyAnn Amos to bring this collection and event to life.
Take a look at some of the Masterclass 2024 designers below.
Aisling Camps
After graduating from Columbia University and New York's Fashion Institute of Technology, designer Aisling Camps immersed herself in the creation of handcrafted knits. Whether or not she is doing a "sustainability lean", her material-conscious label focuses on developing high-quality textiles. Recently, she collaborated with Moda Operandi, traveling to actress Isabella Rossellini’s Long Island farm to create a collection using wool from Rossellini’s heritage sheep — each unique in its characteristics, which Camps likens to “heirloom tomatoes.”
This season, her brand emphasizes textures and fabrication, featuring materials such as boiled wool sourced from Italy and brushed mohair. Novelty yarns serve as the foundation for the collection, heavily inspired by the tree roots and waterfalls of Trinidad, Camps' hometown. Referring to her design process, she explains, “Every garment is perfectly undone, with the scraps of one piece becoming the basis for the next.” The organic lines of her designs, which accentuate the female form, reflect her zero-waste philosophy, using fabric in a way that avoids excess.
Burkindy
Burkina Faso-born artist and designer Burkindy blends cultural symbols with natural elements to honor the heritage that informs his work. In his latest collection, he incorporates fluid, organic forms into bracelets and necklaces designed to drape across the body. His animal-shaped rings, crafted in gold and silver, reflect a deep appreciation for classic designs, yet each piece bears his distinctive touch.
Handcrafting all jewelry molds in Brooklyn, Burkindy has a dedicated storefront in Crown Heights where admirers of the brand can explore the collection. In addition to his jewelry, Burkindy’s creative practice spans Ready-to-Wear and visual art, integral to his artistic process. A pivotal moment for his brand came when he connected with Felitia Harris through a mutual friend, leading to his involvement with RAISE — a transformative experience for his career.
Kingsley Gbadegesin
There’s no deeper meaning behind Kingsley Gbadegesin’s newest collection — the Nigerian-American designer’s work is rooted in the idea that form follows function. For him, it’s about creating a feeling and making something personal for each wearer. Putting a sexy spin on prep-styled pieces, from cropped polos to sheer silhouettes, Gbadegesin designs with fabrics and fits that excite him, fueling his body-centric work.
With a background in sales and merchandising, Gbadegesin shares his vulnerabilities through his creations.“ If you follow the label,” he says, “you’re judging me, you’re feeling me, you’re dressing in me, sans it [the label] being named K.NGSLEY.” Bridging the gap in equity for queer and Black communities is central to his brand’s ethos. During the pandemic, a friend encouraged him to join RAISE, where he met Aisling Camps, his “business wife.” Their collaboration has accelerated the pace and process that shape his garments.
Keith Herron
Keith Herron launched his label, Advisry, in California at just 13, and he has consistently found innovative ways to deliver cult-favorite pieces to his audience. Expanding beyond garments, Herron has explored multimedia projects, including film and music, which further define his brand’s identity.
At this year’s RAISEfashion showcase, Herron joined a BOF panel to discuss building his fanbase, upcoming partnerships with retailers in Korea, and strategies for brands to incorporate wholesale to expand their reach. Leveraging his connections from the program to boost his direct-to-consumer market, Herron continues to create standout pieces, such as graphic tees and wide-leg trousers, paying homage to his inspirations, Pharrell and Virgil Abloh.
