A Note From Willy

Oh, mundane America

home of the free

I let you embrace me

I let you rape me

And yet I walk your streets with the sway of an old house song

I'm tough

Cloaked in capitalism and Jesus

I know your ways

All starry eyed and wet

Finger marks across your neck

Brown Boys in the border towns dressing up

in Polo Sport and Abercrombie

As a flashing sign that they too are America

Your grip is tight

Your tongue is dangerous

And still I walk with the spec of a freshly faded hair cut

I’ll fuck the hell out of you

Fashion

SHUSHU/TONG x CHARLES & KEITH Are Shaking Up Femininity

January 21, 2022

Leave it to Gen Z creators, the pragmatic movers and shakers of the next generation, to consistently elevate the fashion game. Shanghai-based founders and designers behind the contemporary label SHUSHU/TONG Studio are restructuring what constitutes “feminine” style. Their designs ooze cool-girl vibes but still nod to classic graceful motifs such as larger-than-life ruffles, bows, and flowers.

Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang believe in the duality of the modern woman. One does not have to sacrifice elegance to sport more edgy, youthful pieces — today, we can have both. The young designers embrace this philosophy in their latest limited-edition capsule collection produced in collaboration with modern footwear brand CHARLES & KEITH.

Interview by Kayla Curtis-Evans
Photos Courtesy of SHUSHU/TONG

The collection includes two patent-leather, rose garnished Mary-Jane shoe styles and two handbag styles. Lei and Jiang wanted to use the rose emblem to symbolize the softness of traditional femininity but decided to simultaneously juxtapose it with funky patent to give the pieces a sassier feel.

Given that Lei and Jiang are young designers, their collections thus far are just scratching the surface of their abilities. As both are graduates of the London College of Fashion, office wanted to sit down with the creatives to discuss how their education led them to the cutting-edge designs we see from SHUSHU/TONG now.

Continue reading for office’s interview with Lei and Jiang, where we learn more about their backgrounds, advice in “making it,” and the new capsule.

How has your time at design school informed your current designs, and specifically the designs in this latest capsule?

Design school mainly teaches you the basic techniques of creating a fashion collection. It’s those key fundamentals, applied and combined with aesthetics that are reminiscent of our childhood, which encompass the capsule’s design.

How have you used your design knowledge to carve a novel space in the realm of fashion with SHUSHU/TONG?

We are still very much in the process of learning. From our school days, to internships, and now running a brand, there have been so many touchpoints for us to learn new things. This continuous learning process allows us to grow personally, whilst giving our brand the opportunity to develop slowly but surely through exploration — and this constant curiosity is an approach we will continue to adapt in our work.

Some of your designs, especially the Mary-Jane silhouette employed in this capsule, are reminiscent of my childhood as well. As Gen Z creators, did your upbringing influence this capsule in any way?

Mary-Jane shoes are signature to the anime books we used to flip through in our childhood. It was a shoe style that frequently appeared in manga comics, and we felt it could convey the girly spirit of SHUSHU/TONG very well. It seemed like the perfect fit as the main product of this collaborative capsule — especially since the design is iconic to CHARLES & KEITH as well.

What advice would you give to others out there who dream of pursuing their own fashion brands?

First of all, you must believe in yourself. At the same time, be willing to roll up your sleeves and put in the hard work, taking the work process step by step — there are no shortcuts in life!

The capsule is available online and photos from the collab can be viewed below.

Fashion

Vivienne Westwood SS22 Campaign

January 20, 2022

The Spring-Summer Vivienne Westwood campaign has just been unveiled, shot by Juergen Teller, in the streets of Naples. This campaign perfectly captures the atmosphere around Lungomare di Mergellina and the Spanish Quarter of Naples 一 blasting the viewer into the set location. 16th-century houses, fishing boats, and vibrant locals serve as the campaign's backdrop, accentuating the essence of this area with minimal-esque corners and playful details. Each set location compliments each look in all of its glory all while reinforcing the brand's identity.

The casual glamorous irreverence speaks to Teller's signature photographs and breathes fresh air into each silhouette. Here, Westwood’s signature aesthetic has been imbued with that classic punk feel, only this time, with her usual elevated sharp precision, boasting out looks that lure in the masses. A roster of 13 wildly contrasting looks plagues this collection 一 injecting a middle-ground of vibrant and muted color hues, with silhouettes that resemble sculptures. From the shapes to the detailing and accessories, Westwood did not disappoint, marking this as another monumental moment for the brand.

Text by Ronald Kahihikolo
Photography by Juergen Teller

On the collection, Creative Director Andreas Kronthaler says: “We had freedom again! - it was the first time since the pandemic started that we could go and visit our producer & friend in Italy. Vivienne was also being honored with the Florence Biennale lifetime achievement award, so it felt like an opportunity. I’ve always wanted to show Vivienne Naples. That’s how it all came out. I know how much Juergen loves the city too 一 he has a deep affection and connection to it. I could visualize this collection there, in the surroundings. It’s a summer collection so the Mediterranean atmosphere is perfect for it. We had a casting with the locals - with the people who make the city and give it the vibe “Scugnizzi,” that’s the mood.”

See the campaign below for every look.

Fashion

Burberry Explores Family and Familiarity in Pre-Fall 2022

January 19, 2022

British heritage label Burberry has introduced its latest collection by chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci for the Pre-Autumn/Winter season. The collection is the first in a series titled “Friends and Family,” in which Burberry takes on themes of intimacy, togetherness, and self-expression at an intersection with the rich history and ubiquity of the label. The motif of familial warmth extends beyond the symbolic, with a distinct emphasis on outerwear in the collection. Beautiful layering and intricately detailed winter garments show that Burberry remains at the forefront of fashion under Tisci’s direction.

The creative head of the British powerhouse says of the inspiration behind the collection, “I wanted to explore a different experience bringing my collections to life, so I have decided to open up my pre-collection to a new creative voice each season…Creativity means freedom and it is about empathy and communication with others. It is your voice, your identity, something inside you which you want to share with others. So, I was excited about the conversation that would happen when our creative worlds come together and see how their interpretation of my identity comes to life.” With no shortage of idiosyncrasy or voice, designs from the latest collection come to life through signature oversized silhouettes and geometric, reconstructed details. As we step into a new year, it will be fascinating to see how Burberry will continue to captivate us with its ever-evolving designs rooted in its robust heritage.