Nothing If Not Nineties

February 20, 2018

When a collection is equally inspired by Nirvana’s Nevermind and Lil Kim’s Hardcore you know it’s not going for a minimalist approach. Nicopanda’s Fall/Winter 2018 managed to cram in every 90’s reference possible, whether it was thrift-store style flannels or a pink matching skirt-suit straight from Cher Horowitz’s wardrobe.

Snippets from RuPaul’s eponymous program introduced the show, tying together its multiple references, from the clothes emblazoned with “QUEENS” to the partnership with record label Tommy Boy, responsible for launching the greats such as Afrika Bambaataa and De La Soul, as well as RuPaul.

The show may have felt more like a crew of club kids strutting down a catwalk than one cohesive collection, but with Mariah Carey and Lady Gaga remixes blaring from the speakers, one can assume Nicola Formichetti wanted exactly that.

Photos and text by Emma Louise Rixhon

Fashion

Who Decides War Releases The First Drop of FW26 Menswear

Who Decides War’s FW26 collection launched exclusively at whodecideswar.com.

Fashion

Avavav SS27: Quiet Objects

September 29, 2026

Avavav's SS27 collection sees creative director Beate Skonare Karlsson exploring fashion as objects, treating garments as pieces of sculpture. Rather than submitting to the constant cycle of reinvention that comes with following trends, this collection has the brand's core identity developing more meaningfully and slowly.

"I think of it as almost building a family. I'm not interested in erasing everything and starting over every six months," said Karlsson. "I want to find forms that feel like they belong to us, then let them evolve and introduce new ones around them. Over time, they start to build a world of their own."

The collection features a muted tonal colour palette, which is broken up by bright red colour-blocked pieces. Unconventional structures become the pleated canvas for these colours. One particular silhouette, an almost chandelabra-like silhouette, became a central motif, being placed in juxtaposition to heavily textured knitted and woven materials.

Text by JohnOswald Crichton
Photos courtesy of Avavav

Fashion

Gucci's Demna Debuts The Store Show

September 28, 2026

The Store Show, Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, debuted on Friday in Milan with a star-studded audience, showcasing creative director Demna's personal vision for Gucci. The show features sharp shoulders and fitted silhouettes, colorful smoky eyes, and horse girl chic with ever-rebellious aristocratic undertones.

Demna became creative director of Gucci in 2025, coming off a ten-year stint at Balenciaga. His first collection with Gucci, La Famiglia, was defined by extravagant gowns, skimpy and sequined mini-dresses, huge fur coats, and a respect for the masculine-feminine. With The Store Show, he surrenders to androgyny and blurs the lines between high fashion and pop culture. A case study on bourgeois style highlighted with a certain sexuality that bridges the gap between the respective men's and women’s collections.

Demna takes us back to Gucci’s roots— a humble beginning at Savoy Hotel in London–with his own personal refinement 100 years later. His fusion of style in this collection is not coincidental. After a year at Gucci, researching and understanding what it is exactly that the House stands for, he promises a space that he envisions is true to Gucci. A space of endless inspiration, assured possibility, and unlikely connection.