PHLEMUNS

April 04, 2017

It’s not every day that a small fashion label gets to create custom pieces for not just one, but both of the Knowles sisters. But then, it’s also not every day that one can spin inimitable patchwork denim pieces out of found vintage material. Enter gender-bending designer James Flemons—or PHLEMUNS, as he’s known in the fashion sphere (and presumably amongst the Illuminati as well).

With a celebrity clientele of Tinashe, Miley Cyrus, and even Zac Efron, Flemons transformed what started as a denim-focused brand into a niche line of clothing, coveted by internet cool kids and celebrities alike. Despite his impressive CV, the young designer’s talents span much further than who he’s dressed during his rather short career.

Text by Alexis Noelle Barnett
Photos by Alex Lee
Styled and produced by Rachel Hodin

PHLEMUNS began back in 2014 as a brand focused on reconstructing denim and creating a sustainable approach to fashion. “A few years ago, I used to never wear denim, it was my least favorite thing to wear,” James explained over the phone. “I wanted to figure out a different approach to denim, in a way that fits more of my style or in a way that I would like to wear it because I was in a time where I was constantly wearing slacks or something a bit more ‘dressed up’. I wanted to have more of a middle ground. I shop a lot at Goodwill and I would just see all the racks of denim and was like ‘why don’t I just play around with it and see what I can come up with?’”

Clearly, it’s worked out. So we spoke to the designer about working with Solange, 2000s style, and what it’s like to work as a young, Black designer.

What would you say is the biggest difference in how you approach design now versus how you approached it when you first start out?

When I first started, it was out of me practicing my sewing skills, my techniques and more of just finding my way. I think it was through my trial and error process of figuring out how to work with garments and denim, I have this idea of who I am as a designer as opposed to who I thought I was as a designer. So it’s definitely less of a question thing. Before it was more "where is this going to go," as opposed to "this is where it’s going."

What are some of your biggest influences when it comes to your style?

My parents have always had a big influence on my personal style. My mom was a thrifter growing up, so I always found it fascinating that she would find these amazing things at the thrift store, and that really rubbed off on me, which in turn rubbed off on the way I design.

I kind of say I am my target market because I initially designed clothing for myself. Andre 3000 and Kelis have always been big style influencers for me. They’re always people who I have in mind—more particularly their style back in the '90s and 2000s. I really just work off of what’s in my head. I don’t know if it’s weird to say but I don’t reference much other things. I think I take in everything I see as like a constant, but I don’t really go looking for things or looking for references.

Who would you say your customer is?

It’s definitely someone who wants to make a statement without being over the top. I kind of shy away from very attention grabbing things. I hate when all eyes are on me.

But you love dancing, don’t you?

[Laughs] I do! But I think that’s a whole other person that comes out. That’s the only time when I’m like "okay, I don’t mind that everyone’s looking at me."

I like things that are impactful without being over the top or showy. And a person who likes to have a middle ground between casual wear and elegant, dressed up clothing. I definitely think that’s why my partnership and growth with Solange has been very sustainable because she’s always been that kind of person. She’s always had this middle ground of being casual but also being elegant and fancy or dressed up in a sense. And that’s very much the type of person that I look to dress.

Think less and act more. Don’t second-guess yourself, don’t question anything.

How did you end up connecting with Solange?

I initially met her when I worked at Opening Ceremony, and I helped her when she came in. She’s really good friends with a lot of the people up on the corporate level for Opening Ceremony, and she reached out to one of the guys and was looking for someone to style a shoot for one of the artists on Saint Heron in L.A., so that’s kind of where it sparked. Through that she found out about my clothing line and fell in love. [When] I put my spring collection out, the photos were floating around on Instagram, and I guess there was one dress that she kept coming across, and that sort of sparked our collaboration because that’s when she was getting everything ready for Saint Heron shop. And the Saint Heron team reached out to me and asked if I would be interested in doing custom pieces. Now it’s just kind of grown into a cool relationship.

Do you still make everything by hand?

Yeah, it’s just me by myself sewing in my living room.

What are some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced since you first started designing clothing?

The biggest challenge is just being so small and not having support from a team. There’s no one really working for me and all the money’s coming out of my pocket. It’s great that I have a demand but keeping up with the demand is really taxing and it wears on me a lot.

Do you find it difficult to navigate the industry as a young Black designer?

It hasn’t really happened much recently, but something that got to me for so long is when people would say I have an “urban fashion line.” I don’t think there’s anything wrong with being urban or anything that comes along with it, but I feel like people only say that because they saw my face and saw that I was Black. And it’s like, I don’t have an “urban” line at all! I feel like some of my influences have come from urban culture, but I don’t think that that’s what you would call it.

I feel like I’ve been really grinding for a few years now and I’ve done pretty noticeable things, and I feel like I haven’t gotten the attention that I deserve in the timing that it’s happened. And then there are other people that I see who are doing these things left and right and no hate to their success or anything, but it’s like, I have been doing this and no one’s really noticing. But I’m patient and my time will come on it’s own. I do think there’s a difference when people see that I’m Black and there’s something that comes along with that that’s different than other people’s experiences.

What advice do you have for people out there who want to start their own line?

Think less and act more. Don’t second-guess yourself, don’t question anything. Do as much as you can even if no one’s paying attention. And do it for yourself and your own self-enjoyment. When you do it for yourself, when other people appreciate it, everything comes as icing on the cake. Especially for the fashion industry, it’s not just a fun, creative thing. It’s a lot of stress and a lot of work and it takes a lot of time and patience. You have to be strong or mentally stable, stay true to who you are. I feel like that’s what brought a lot of people’s attention to me: the fact that I do what I want and I don’t second-guess myself.

Describe PHLEMUNS as a song.

“Millionaire” by Kelis and Andre 3000.

See more from PHLEMUNS here.

Fashion

Dr. Martens x MM6 Maison Margiela reveal their first capsule collection

November 12, 2024

Dr. Martens and MM6 Maison Margiela have teamed up for the first time to launch a Fall/Winter capsule collection that reinvents classic footwear with a fresh twist. The collection combines four iconic Dr. Martens styles—the 1460 and 1490 boots, the 1461 shoe, and the Penton loafer—into three unique hybrid designs, each with MM6’s special touch.

Revealed at MM6 Maison Margiela’s AW24 show, these designs mix familiar Dr. Martens silhouettes in surprising ways, adding bold new details. Each piece has Dr. Martens’ signature yellow stitching and AirWair heel loop, along with MM6’s unique numbered imprint.

The Dr. Martens x MM6 Maison Margiela collection launches November 19 on both brands’ websites, in select MM6 stores, and at limited retailers.

By Enzo Holdt
Photography courtesy of Dr. Martens and MM6 Maisoin Margiela

Fashion

Lennon Gallagher’s Future Heritage

November 08, 2024

At London's The Dublin Castle, Lennon Gallagher’s band Automotion played a gig on the same stage once christened by The Killers, that birthed The Libertines. The pub’s indie-soaked history was the perfect match for the genuinity of the trio’s setlist — a nod to the bands who had found their "break" there decades prior.

The crowd, clad in blazers and button-downs, was packed with Lennon’s family and friends, celebrating the launch of Napapijri’s FW24 campaign with mixed drinks from the open bar and a cig on the Camden streets. Starring Lennon and his mother, Patsy, the campaign channeled '90s influences from padded puffers to elastic drawstrings. Scattered through the crowd, the styles nodded to silhouettes remembered through the lens of Napapijri’s classics.

After the show, office caught up with Lennon to discuss London winters, working with his mom, and family traditions in the Gallagher household.

By Julia Silverberg
Photography by Lin You

Have you been to The Dublin Castle before?

I’ve actually been a few times. It’s an iconic pub, and they pour a good Guinness.

It's historic — I heard Amy Winehouse would occasionally pull a pint there. How did it feel to perform at the venue?

It felt great, especially because most of the people in the crowd were my mates coming to support. It’s also fun performing in an intimate venue like The Dublin Castle, makes it more special.

Do you have a favorite memory of going out in North London?

It’s hard to pin down just one, North London has the best pubs.

Yeah, now is the best time to be inside at the pub. How would you describe London winters?

Wet.

Tell me about your band, Automotion.

We’re currently on our European tour which has been a lot of fun. Our music video for our new single, "Inferno," has just been released and we have some cool stuff coming up too, but you’ll have to wait and see.

What artists are influencing you right now?

At the moment, I’d say Black Midi. I’ve always enjoyed their music, but now they’re on repeat with Duster.

You get that from your sound and style; what’s the best outfit to wear for a show?

Leather trench coat, always.

You've always been into fashion, and you recently got to model alongside your mom, Patsy, in Napapijri's new campaign. What did working with the brand mean to you and your family?

It was fun to see each other working in a professional setting, so I guess it gave us both an insight into a work perspective of each other's lives which we don’t normally get to see.

Is there a moment from the shoot that stood out to you?

Probably the shots were my mum and I had to look at each other with serious faces. Was hard not to laugh, but we managed to keep it together

Do you have a favorite piece from the "Future Heritage" collection?

I’d have to say the 1990 Anorak, it’s a classic.

What fashion traditions have persisted in your household?

I think it’s always about being comfortable in what you wear. It’s a cliche but I’d say comfort is key.

Fashion

Go As You Please - Ann-Sofie Back 1998-2018

In this conversation for Office Magazine, Ann-Sofie Back and co-curator Nicole Walker open up about the deeper themes behind their new exhibition. They discuss everything from fashion and creativity to personal reflections on legacy, death, and the journey of curating Go As You Please.

Interview with Ann-Sofie Back and Nicole Walker

NW If you had to choose one garment from the whole archive to take with you to the grave. Which one would you choose?

ASB It varies from day to day. Right now it’s the red wig sandals we put in the exhibition last night. I can never look at my designs as singular pieces, it's what they’re combined with that makes them special. I actually have an aversion to dresses because of this. It is too easy.

If you have a t-shirt that sends out a certain message, you need to pair it with the wrong shoes to erase the shirt's message in order for the look to be ambivalent and possible to read in different ways. Sending out a clear message is failure.

What has been the hardest decision you have made in terms of your work?

NW I think the hardest decision is how much I’ve had to compromise my creativity to be able to earn a living as a stylist. Like it’s half styling, half being an actress / people reader-pleaser. Or at least that’s my approach. With commercial projects, it’s always this draining, unhealthy feeling of selling your soul to a monster of capitalism. It’s really not why I do what I do. But I do love money!

And in all honesty, I think just carrying and taking one million bags of clothes/shoes and other shit around is exhausting at times. But I also enjoy pushing myself and my body to the limit. To the breaking point- which is compatible with being a stylist, it just also really means I will most likely die from treating my body like shit - but I’m ok with that!

This exhibition is all about death. Did working on this exhibition made you feel differently about dying in any way?

ASB Yes totally. It’s been a grieving period, and working on the exhibition and book for the past three to four years has helped me accept death and say goodbye. I feel like I’m done, I’m free, I can die now. My sense of self has been tied to being a fashion designer, but now, I’m free of that. The reason for keeping my design archive from 1998-2018 has always been to make this exhibition, but the death theme came maybe a year ago after going through some very dark times personally.

Tell me why fashion is the most important art form?

NW I don’t think it is. The reason why I love fashion is that it’s always going to be low culture. Fashion is never going to be considered fine art. And I love that. Fashion is that desperate little sibling constantly seeking validation.

Do you?

ASB Yes, everyone is involved has a say. Which makes super annoying but nonetheless more interesting and difficult to work with. You have the restraints of wearability and that the costumer and the constant question “do you think fashion is art” who cares?! But it is not.

NW So what is the most annoying thing about fashion right now?

ASB Since I’m not actively “in the business” any more I don't have any particular hates atm. People still dress ugly as shit though hahah.

NW If you could call someone dead, who would you call and what would you talk about?

ASB That thought is really scary. Firstly, I have a phone phobia and then talking to someone dead… I would call my dead dog Beverly and listen to her snores, huffs and puffs I think. I would tell her “cheese” and “ball”.

Do you want to be cremated and put in an urn or spread out someplace or buried in a coffin in the ground?

NW I want to be cremated for sure. I hate the idea of my body rotting or being eaten by worms and stuff. And would like to be spread somewhere nice, preferably somewhere warm like a desert or into a volcano. Or spread into multiple container necklaces, so people could be walking around with me around their necks. Would you wear my ashes around your neck if I die? :) I can put you on the list of potential owners of my ashes.

ASB I wonder how much ashes a body has? I don’t think I would wear you. However, you would get a special place in my house. A Shrine.

NW Ok, Shrine works for me.

Which is your favorite look in the exhibition, tho? You have to choose one.

ASB I can't. Maybe the first one you made still. Or the one with my baby teeth.

What about you?

NW That’s so funny, I think the first one I made or the one with baby teeth too.

ASB Isak (The Deputy Director at Liljevalchs, the gallery) was asking why I wanted to do an exhibition with my archive and not an archive show? Would you have liked to do that instead?

NW Like a runway show? No, I prefer this set up. I want to see your creations in an art Gallery. I walked through the exhibition, now that it's almost finished, and I got very emotional. I love the way it turned out, and I’m so in awe of what you’ve created, and I’m so happy to have been a part of this.

ASB I feel the same. Thank you for being a part of this and hanging in there through the very, very long process.

NW What happens for you now when the exhibition is almost done, what are your plans for the rest of the year?

ASB It will feel empty, post show-blues for sure. However, there is a lot happening and to do with the interior objects I am designing under the name Gnilmyd kcab. What about you?

NW I might move to Tokyo for a while, but it’s all up in the air at the moment. Which feels exciting and life is behaving beautifully strange and I just hope Trump does not win the US election next week cause if he does it really feels like everything will go to total shit.

RIP.