Physical into Psychological: LOEWE SS23 Men's

January 11, 2023

The LOEWE SS23 Men's notes begin with three words: "Body, mind, object." And for season after season under Jonathan Anderson's thumb, we've seen the legendary fashion house excel in reimagining what these three words together could mean or produce. Banal objects on clothing, or as clothing, have glided down his runways — convincing even judgmental cynics such as myself that Alice in Wonderland can exit the realm of kitsch showmanship and enter that of artful, and wearable couture.

For the SS23 season, not only did the collections consider with shape, scale and unorthodox references with thoughtful playfulness, we notice those elements echoed in the Men's campaign. Shot by David Sims, the images take into consideration the perspective of still life photography — using lighting and composition that feature the fashion, and the figures as carefully crafted objects.

Text by Anna Zanes
Photography by David Sims

Referencing early 1900s imagery and borrowing aesthetic and conceptual notes from still life painter William Nicholson and American photographer George Platt Lynes, Sims' vision of the collection hovers between photographic reality and something slightly off, the suspended fantasy that lives in drawn out shadows and nearly inhuman, sculptural shapes.

But while the campaign asks for belief to be suspended, we can't let go of our belief that LOEWE does everything with a unique eye and pure elegance, and we can't wait for the season that's upon us.

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For years, she stood still, watching life rush past her, a quiet observer behind the glass. Now, the glass is broken, and she steps out into the unknown. She walks through the city, caught between two worlds—part of it, yet apart from it.

Her journey is quiet but bold, searching for something she’s never understood, something just out of reach. On church steps and under glowing city lights, she questions everything: the rules, the past, and where she truly belongs. Each step feels both freeing and uncertain.

A curious soul in a borrowed life, she keeps moving forward, leaving behind only whispers of her escape, like a fleeting shadow in the night.