Power, Glory and Restraint: Latimmier SS24

His latest collection, the designer’s third as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week’s New Talent program, was an essential part of the work he undertook under that remit and throughout his career as an independent designer. (Latimier performed as Ms. Conda, his drag alter ego, at his Pitti debut.) With Martin Scorcese’s depiction of money-making-masculinity in his 2013 film Wolf of Wall Street as his jumping-off point, Latimier riffed on the look and vibe of “archetypes of men in power idolized in North-American film and television,” conjuring merino-infected wool twills and mesh intarsia knits. This designer isn’t particularly literal, so the looks were finessed by a figure-boosting effect and mixed liberally with volume, which seemed to toy with the perception of success and how it relates to that of masculinity, showcasing the ability of independent designers to reinvent themselves in the most troubled times, beyond all manner of restraint. But “restraint” isn’t the first word that springs to mind when decoding the oeuvre of Latimmier. In a soulful way, however, that was the quality that defined the new collection, which culled references from a world where everything is for sale and money are the judge, jury and executioner. “A world where one’s attire is a direct reflection of one’s status,” read the notes. It’s an adroit vision, that of Latimier, which fuels a sense of realism that speaks volumes on how the current state of fashion, which is grappling with a society that has lacks restraints on multiple fronts and ignites calamities on a cultural, political and environmental level. Overall, the focus Latimier brought to bear on this season served not only to help decipher the brand’s potent point of view, but to elevate a fresh lineup that was purposeful as it were resourceful. So here’s hoping it continues in this direction.