At Prada, a Hard Finesse

January 14, 2024

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons said they wanted “to introduce the idea of renewal and change — like nature, natural rhythms which inspired the Fall 2024 clothes.” Though suffused with the house’s signature poetics, this season felt urban, partly nonchalant, fragile and light — with a transitional yet harder edge to match. “Things are very changed in their weight and form language, adapted for different spaces, alternate environments,” says Raf Simons, explaining that “there is this idea of echoing surrounding, being influenced by environments in the garments themselves — office and nature, inside and out, the instinctive change of people shifting between these opposite spheres.” The intriguing dichotomy presented this Fall was the juxtaposition of an office interior teamed with a natural landscape, emphasizing the intention to showcase how man-meets-nature settings can coexist between one another. Prada and Simons are actually intuiting the fact that fashion needs to address a transitional, more classic level of dressing, but at the same time, pressure is on them to stay within the classic parameters of the not-so-defined genre of chic traditionalism.

By Chidozie Obasi
Photography courtesy of Prada

Beyond the brilliant accessories and outerwear staples rendered in wacky (and savvy) color-blocking moments, reality-check wardrobe essentials like maxi bags, neutral cardis, sharp collars, slim but not tight trousers, and the perfect pair of sunnies rounded the collection, renewing the arsenal of classics with new a push on volumes. “The Rite of Spring has inspired generations of musicians to reinvent themselves,” explained Miuccia Prada in the notes, expanding on the fact that “seasons have been the most consistent theme in all schools of painting. fashion aspires to the same effect of renewal.” Representing the things you were not aware you needed but you suddenly would be thrilled to have were a chalk-gray coat teamed with a plush mustard round neck, or a double-breasted suit with patent loafers. The proportions looked just right, with an approach that made sense stylistically, although it lacked sizzle. Thank goodness for those sharply-cut overcoats.

Fashion

The Intersection of Craftsmanship and Sensuality: Louis-Gabriel Nouchi x ECCO.kollektive

November 20, 2024

ECCO.kollektive has partnered with French designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi for the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which showcases footwear, ready-to-wear pieces, and accessories. Nouchi, known for his provocative exploration of masculinity and gender norms, brings a distinct sense of sensuality to the collaboration, aligning perfectly with ECCO’s innovative leather craftsmanship.

Nouchi is the latest addition to the collective of designers invited to merge their vision with the ECCO's technical expertise. “Fashion is a true laboratory,” says Nouchi. “Being able to push the boundaries of materials and development with ECCO is a unique opportunity. I feel extremely lucky.” His collection, which debuted at Paris Fashion Week, is built around the concept of the human body, drawing inspiration from its textures and sensuality.

The collection features high-shine, polished leathers and a strict color palette of black, oxblood, and pearlescent white. The slit motif, a signature detail of Nouchi’s designs, is incorporated throughout the range—subtly hinting at eroticism through reveal-and-conceal details. These slashes appear on shoes, bags (including a Tote and Crossbody), and ready-to-wear items, adding a provocative edge to the otherwise minimalist aesthetic.

In his collaboration with ECCO, Nouchi incorporates the brand’s renowned stretch leather, a material that plays a pivotal role in achieving the fluidity and refined edge of the collection. “There are no limits when working with ECCO,” Nouchi explains. “The technical capabilities of the leather allow me to create pieces that are unexpectedly lightweight, yet still convey strength and sensuality.”

The collection features a selection of footwear, including unisex Derby shoes, Helsinki loafers, and platform Truck Lace loafers. The loafers take on a 90s minimalism, with squared toes and gently thickened soles borrowed from ECCO’s archives. The Truck Lace loafers, however, take on a futuristic flair, with a platform design developed specifically for Nouchi, inspired by sleek car lines and modern futurism. “The platform is a nod to the relationship between design and technology, but also my love for the Tesla Cybertruck,” Nouchi says, laughing. “It might be a bit controversial, but I really like it. The sharp, angular lines and futuristic look, combined with that raw brutalism, really resonate with me.

Ready-to-wear pieces blend tailored separates with the relaxed, futuristic vibe of the shoes. A single-breasted blazer, pants, and long-line shorts are made from fine biker nappa leather with a waxy finish, which echoes the robust yet refined nature of the collection. In a bold mix of softness and structure, Nouchi also introduces fluid pieces, such as a column dress and pencil skirt, composed of strips of leather embroidered onto bi-stretch tulle.

“The collection celebrates the collision of the refined and the robust,” says Panos Mytaros, CEO of ECCO. “Louis-Gabriel’s precise approach to design is the perfect match for our technical skill with leather. We’re proud to have worked together to create something that truly embodies his passion for innovation and detail.”

The ECCO.kollektive x Louis-Gabriel Nouchi collection is available starting November 19, with prices ranging from €125 to €2,295. The collaboration is part of ECCO.kollektive’s expanding roster of designers, which includes previous collaborations with figures like Peter Do and Nina Christen.

Fashion

A New Lee® and Alpha Industries Collaboration Takes Flight

Fashion

Escaping the Glass Cage

November 19, 2024

For years, she stood still, watching life rush past her, a quiet observer behind the glass. Now, the glass is broken, and she steps out into the unknown. She walks through the city, caught between two worlds—part of it, yet apart from it.

Her journey is quiet but bold, searching for something she’s never understood, something just out of reach. On church steps and under glowing city lights, she questions everything: the rules, the past, and where she truly belongs. Each step feels both freeing and uncertain.

A curious soul in a borrowed life, she keeps moving forward, leaving behind only whispers of her escape, like a fleeting shadow in the night.