Private Policy Envisions Nature in the City for FW22

February 23, 2022

For Private Policy, being in the big city does not mean being out of touch with nature. In fact, the two should go hand in hand. This idealistic synergy is precisely what inspired the New York-based label's most recent Fall/Winter 2022 collection at NYFW. Harsh, ripstop-inspired fabrics laid against cozy, fuzzy materials make for unexpected but surprisingly symbiotic pieces throughout the selection of looks. Moreover, the inventive use of fungi in developing the source material for the collection showcases efforts to look beyond the canon and explore how natural processes can interact sustainably with new-age fashion.

The 32 looks illustrate the creative directors' breadth of design capability while remaining succinct and streamlined in theme. Private Policy also excitingly debuted their first foray into footwear this season with a foam platform sneaker in a set of colorways, including a striking metallic silver that caught many an eye on the runway. office caught up with one of the creative directors of Private Policy, Siying Qu, after the show to talk about the inspirations and intentions for the daring new collection this season.

Text by Deren Owji
Photos courtesy of Private Policy

In discussing where the focal start-point for the collection was, Qu shares that they were initially inspired after watching the documentary Fantastic Fungi, which spurred them to purchase a book on fungi and take a deep dive into understanding the world of mushrooms. Through this exploration, Qu discovered that "mushrooms rely on a system of supporting and being supported by everything around them…they feed us when we're living then break us down when we die and then turn us into nutrients for the soil and plants." Qu wants us to take a hint from mushrooms when we think about survival and appreciate that it's not always about competition. Sometimes the most effective survivalists, like fungi, are the ones that collaborate with their surroundings sustainably.

It's fascinating how the reverence Qu holds for fungi translated into the designs this season. Fuzzy fabrics over harsher materials like nylon and canvas demonstrate the literal nature of fungi's interaction with organic environments. Speaking of standout pieces, Qu explains that "compared to past seasons, this season explores many different colors and fuzzy textures. We have bright purple sweaters with black patterning and knits made with the fuzziest yarn…we took a New York staple, the classic nylon bomber, and we made the sleeves into what feels like a soft harness. All the different textures this season are inspired by the idea of the mushroom and how it can inspire a different future for city life." While certainly unexpected, Qu's case for the mushroom is beyond compelling, opening the door for a myriad of new ways designers can think about natural interactions moving forward in the fashion world.

Watch Private Policy’s full Fall/Winter 2022 show here.

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From sweatpants infused with polka dots to nostaglic slogans and banner display, the ensembles symbolize hidden identities and memories. Giving us a glimpse into his own memories, Khattabi's work evokes affection for the past. It's a nod to the interconnectedness of culture and how we interact with its complexitites creatively. View the collection below.