Shayne Oliver is Fashion’s God of Chaos

February 23, 2022

Walking into the 2nd night of Shayne Oliver's “Headless” presentation, no one knew exactly what was in store. Looking around, though, it felt like all of New York was there. As the crowd made its way up several flights of escalators towards the Griffin Theater of 'The Shed', a powerful bass could be heard permeating the doors of the auditorium. An ominous sound, or more so a sensation would soon engulf everyone in its presence. It isn’t easy to believe anyone would have waited quite as long if it wasn’t for Shayne Oliver, but eventually, the show kicked off, and it was exhilarating.

Work lights beamed across the auditorium halls as the speakers began to flood the space with Oliver and Arca’s collaborative composition through the Anonymous Club collective, Wench, which accompanied the debut collection. Suddenly, models began to populate the area, marching into the mob from every which way. Oliver did not provide the runway; the crowd was tasked with forging its own. While it led to some roadblocks and collisions, this seems to be precisely what Oliver had in mind. For much of fashion week, nearly everyone in the crowd had most likely sat obediently in assigned seats for shows with straightforward starts, middles, and ends. That changed here.

Text by Deren Owji
Images courtesy of Andrew Morales/WWD

With “Headless,” Oliver asked his audience to trust the process and let go of themselves into the vibe. It may not be the ideal scenario for some in the fashion scene, but it is exactly what New York has been missing lately: lawlessness. Leave it to Shayne Oliver to claim his throne as New York Fashion Week’s god of chaos.

The looks consisted of motifs familiar from Hood by Air runways such as overly accentuated, boxy shoulders, and fantastically proportioned and intentionally deformed footwear. Pieces such as Swarovski-bedazzled Telfar bags beg the question of upcoming collaborations yet to be answered. The show was rounded out by a finale featuring Eartheater. The singer, adorned in a custom Shayne Oliver gown, gave the audience one last surprise with a performance before the festivities concluded. What’s next for Oliver’s new label is wholly unclear at this point, but it seems that’s just how he wants it.

Explore images from "Headless" below.

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s.k. manor hill A/W 24 collection

Fashion

TEMET: If Skims Met Skins

November 04, 2024

I often wonder where the first “afters” happened — whether it was right here in New York or somewhere else. The afters: that hazy, half-lit party that stretches into the morning, more intimate than dancing skin-to-skin with someone you just met, where the crowd thins to only those willing to let the night bleed into morning. Here, you get to watch the sunrise together too.

But today, no matter where you go in the world, if you're at a rave or DIY party, there's probably an afters. If you've never been to one, or don’t care to be, you’ve probably scrolled through your feed and seen that one story: morning sun flooding a cluttered living room, hot people still dancing, bodies tangled on a worn couch — lost in the aftermath of a night that refuses to end.

Creative Director Kiernan Francis
Designer TEMET
Photographer (Still) Alejandro Yullo
Director of Photography & Editor (Moving) Ava Papunen
Stylist Abby Bencie
Makeup Rory Alvarez
Casting Director Kiernan Francis
Lighting Director & Retoucher Lida Ramsay
Executive Producer Kiernan Francis
Associate Producer Ava Perman
Brand Producer Juanita
Soundtrack: "Revolution," Billy Doll (EXCLUSIVE RELEASE)
Makeup Assistant Kandi Milk
Fashion Assistant Jackson Prus
Production Assistant Peyton Nguyen
Production Assistant Emmanuel Delator
Production Assistant Axl Checho

This editorial for Chilean-based TEMET, a brand deeply woven into the underground music and nightlife scene, captures that noctural alchemy. Creative directed by New York’s own Kiernan Francis, the shoot draws inspiration from the afters’ electric liminality. Francis sought to celebrate the paradox of private and public life — where our truest selves might emerge within nightlife and fade into the versions of ourselves we show the world by daylight.

The cast was a mix of DJs, artists, and street-scouted creatives — some known to Francis from the scene, others discovered through social media. The styling leaned into shapewear as an experience, framed by a backdrop that evokes the afters: crowded couches, messy rooms, and the chaos of a night extending into morning. The result? A series that feels like SKIMS meeting Skins UK.

Watch the video below.

Fashion

Nikolaj Hansson Joins Diadora Legacy as Creative Director

October 31, 2024

Diadora's appointment of Danish designer Nikolaj Hansson as Creative Director for its Legacy line signals a fresh chapter for the brand. Known for his Copenhagen-based label Palmes, Hansson’s connection to Diadora began in childhood, admiring the brand’s iconic boots on Premier League defenders. Now, his deep respect for Diadora’s heritage and his vision for merging craftsmanship with progressive design will shape the brand’s premium Legacy line.

His first collection launching in Fall/Winter 2025, will blend his design ethos with Diadora’s storied history, tapping into both the brand’s past and a modern sensibility. Diadora’s CEO, Claudio Bora, shares Nikolaj Hansson's vision of sport as an emotional, daily experience, aiming to create apparel that resonates with the spirit of sport itself. As Hansson says, "the falling in love was mutual," and together, they aim to reignite that spark in a new generation of fans.