Strength and Vulnerability at Kiko Kostadinov

March 06, 2024

For their FW24 collection, Kiko Kostadinov is all about balance and dichotomy. Showing in Paris, twin sisters and designers Laura and Deanna Fanning play with hard and soft. Regarding their conception of “The Kiko Kostadinov woman,” this collection is meant to exist at the “tipping point of her strength and vulnerability.”

Some looks featured pastels and draped sheer fabrics, others featured stiff, armored silhouettes and earth tones. There’s something that feels vaguely geometric about this season’s work — from graphic distortion to fabric sculpting and anatomical augmentation, the entire collection is a game of the eye. But that doesn’t mean the pieces aren’t wearable. A three-piece denim suit comes out of a collaboration with Levi’s and the debut of the carry-all Mezulari bag is a stylish take on the utilitarian messenger. Kiko Kostadinov sums their work up best: “A variety of desires play out; intact or wounded, tender or aggressive serving as distinct markers of vulnerability within us.”

By Izzy Capulong
Photography by Boris Halas

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