Tank Air is in Service of the Matriarchy

January 14, 2021

While some have childhood photos in a box under their bed, Claire Robertson-Macleod has them pinned up on her moodboards. Born in Thailand, a matriarchal society, her journey to founding Tank Air has been in honor of the powerful women in her life: her mom, aunt, and grandmother.

She’s not confused about her inspiration (or her values) and it shows. Since Tank Air began only a couple years ago, her designs have been cosigned by the Kardashians and been covered by Vogue, but when asked about her mainstream success, Robertson-Macleod almost laughs it off. The clothes don’t exist to be trendy; they exist to bring intangible feelings from her childhood to life in a way that can be shared.

Interview by Lee Phillips
Photos by Erika Kamano
Makeup by Lynski
Model: Yotti Wilkinson

From her Compassionate Baby T drop with all proceeds having gone to mutual aid, to the traditional Thai references in her colorful upcoming spring line, everything Robertson does is “in service of the Matriarchy.” When Robertson-Macleod explains what that means over the phone one night, her vision of a brand that is not just a product, but a feeling, becomes all the more striking.

Claire Robertson-Macleod—Tank Air has always been inspired by my mom, my aunt, and my grandma; the Thai women in my family. When I started it, I wanted to make pieces of clothing that felt how I felt when I was around them growing up. I always felt empowered. I was always around powerful female figures that did whatever they wanted. Starting Tank Air was a tool for me to try to push those feelings, but through clothes.

So when you say “in service of the matriarchy,” you’re kind of saying in service of your mom, your grandmother, and your aunt.

I think great brands stand for something more than just their products. Their values come out in the way they present themselves. Because I had these women in my life that I can look to and remind myself of how I wanted to be, I wanted Tank air to be a reminder for other people who may not have had that. Or even for myself, when I need that reminder.

On the Tank Air website there are some words I really like: Bold without being loud, sophisticated without being boring, playful without losing depth. Are those descriptions of your family?

Yes, except that they are bold and loud. In terms of clothing, my mom and aunt have the biggest personalities. They were loud through their voices though, not clothing. I reference a lot of pieces from stuff that my mom has worn.

When you say referencing your mother’s clothes—when I was little, I used to ravage through my mom and grandma’s closets and put on fashion shows for them.

I used to do that when I was younger, but unfortunately when my parents got divorced and my mom moved out, I don’t know where a lot of those clothes went. I have so many photographs of her and my grandma when they were longer. A lot of those photos end up on moodboards. I also reference them when I’m styling and putting together outfits. My mom has given me slash I’ve stolen, a lot of her jewelry.

Does she know that or will reading this be a surprise?

No, she knows. I’ve sent her photos and she’s been like “Are those my earrings?” and I’m like, “Yup!” Also, I have a twin brother, and my mom was always dressing us in traditional Thai clothing, so I’m always referencing traditional Thai silhouettes. My mom was really good at mixing traditional and modern. I’ve been inspired by that. When you think of traditional Thai, or any traditional country’s clothing you don’t always think “fashion.” But my mom was really good at modernizing it and making it chic.

You were born in Thailand but also lived in Hong Kong and London. Your’e also half English. How has all of that shaped your identity?

I know this is weird—I grew up in Hong Kong and all my friends were international. They were either like me (mixed), Chinese, or Thai. Hong Kong is such a metropolitan place, I mean my dad, who is white, lived there for 40 years and never felt out of place. I’ve always was so proud of being Thai, and I always led with “I’m Thai,” instead of “I’m English.” It wasn’t to fit in, it was just something that I loved. When I came to America, was when I felt, I don’t know – one of my best friends here is half Chinese, half American. She was always so quiet about being half Chinese. So, I think where you grow up and how accepting people are of you gives you that opportunity to explore your culture. I could fully embrace Thai culture and her experience was the opposite.

In Hong Kong you had room to explore, but America is trash. A lot of the work you’re doing with Tank Air is about creating a space where women can be all that they are. How important is community in that conversation?

I think it’s really important. Brands these days have to connect on much more of a personal level with their costumers and followers. It’s so imoprtant. With social media, you’re able to do that. I have costumers dming me all the time, also because Tank Air is so small and it’s just me they have no one else to talk to. So... I speak to my costumers every single day.

In an article you did for Vogue, you say that brands are starting to imbue identity into products. That really struck me. I see a shift in the way brands are relating to the world. They’re not selling insecurity they’re selling their persona and their voice. That’s exactly what you’re doing.

I really hope so. We’re trying. It’s so nice seeing brands be less afraid to voice their beliefs. Before it was all about not-alienating your costumer but it’s really nice now that some brands are speaking up for things that they believe in and not being afraid of alienating people who don’t believe in the same things as them.

How do you balance trying to promote your business in the structure of influencer culture with all these more meaningful goals and values that Tank Air has? Does it come naturally or is it like a balancing act?

Yea that’s been the hardest thing. We’ve found that the only thing that helps us sell clothes is influencer marketing. It’s gotten to the point where influencer marketing isn’t anything to brag about. It’s so over saturated. It can make and break a brand. until now we’ve tried just to gift to people that I would really want in Tank Air.

Well by gifting you’re essentially inviting people into the Tank Air community. What do you look for in someone that you’re gifting to?

Ok so, very early in the beginning I was so desperate so I was gifting to whoever would respond to my DMs. So, there are some people who are in the Tank Air community that maybe aren’t super Tank Air but we still welcome them. Now, we try to gift more to artists, musicians, people that are pursuing something like writing or art. I mean there’s nothing wrong with influencers, it’s a full-time job. No shame. I just try to be careful with who I gift to. There are so many fast fashion brands that just copy, copy, copy.

Has that happened yet?

Oh my god, yes. I had one lady that put photos of ME wearing the silk ruched top on her website to sell a copy of it. I was like? That’s me. So yea, we try to look at who else the influencer is making content for. And if they work with fast fashion brands, I try not to gift to them.

What’s the story behind your Compassionate T?

When it came time to release was in the middle of Covid. It was the time when the hate crimes against Asian people were just sky rocketing. Especially towards elderly Asian American women. I just couldn’t believe it was happening especially with D*nald Tr*mp just saying the worst shit. And so, when we released that we donated 100 percent of the proceeds. 50% went to the Asian American Foundation that was fighting the hate crimes, and the other half went to the Okra Project.

The shoot we did for this story…they really nailed it.

When I think of who the Tank Air woman is, that’s Erika. And also, the model, Yotti. Erika is half Japanese and half English. I met her through Tank Air. We became good friends and just have been friends ever since. When it came to them working together for a Tank Air shoot it just came so naturally.

If you could describe a Tank Air girl, like Erika, in three words what would it be?

Sense of humor, passionate about something and independent. Hot. Don’t put that last one in.

Fashion

Timberland and Veneda Carter Reimagine Classics with Bold Metallics

November 23, 2024

Veneda Carter teams up with Timberland once again, bringing a fresh edge to archival designs in their latest capsule collection. Highlight pieces include towering lace-up boots in electric blue and silver, alongside a sleek reinvention of Timberland’s iconic 6-Inch boot, both crafted with patent leather and recycled materials.

The collection also introduces rugged, versatile outerwear like oversized parkas, utility vests, and a statement boiler suit, all built for layering and durability. Inspired by industrial design and early 2000s fashion, Carter infuses each piece with a contemporary energy that feels both striking and wearable.

The collection is now available and can be found at flagship Timberland stores, online, and select retailers worldwide..

By Enzo Holdt
Photography courtesy of Timberland

Fashion

ECCO.kollektive collaborates with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi

November 21, 2024

ECCO.kollektive has teamed up with Paris-based designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi for a bold and innovative Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Known for his thoughtful exploration of masculinity and storytelling in fashion, Nouchi brings his unique perspective to this collaboration, blending his modern aesthetic with ECCO’s skill in craftsmanship and material innovation.

The collection features a range of footwear, clothing, and accessories, each designed with attention to detail. The collection uses a mix of black, deep red, and pearl white. Sensual touches, like Nouchi’s signature slits, combine with structured tailoring and flowing shapes, showing how the designer blends bold and refined styles.

We spoke with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi about the collection and his inspiration. From the textures of the human body to his love for stretch leather, Nouchi shared how the collaboration allowed to experiment with new ideas.

By Enzo Holdt
Photography by courtesy of ECCO.kollektive x LGN

The collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week and draws inspiration from the textures of the human body. “The idea came from the textures of skin,” Nouchi explains. “I wanted to create something sensual and fluid, using leather in a way that felt both strong and soft. Leather has this amazing quality—it can feel like armor, but also like a second skin.”

Nouchi worked closely with ECCO to develop designs that showcase the versatility of their materials. High-shine biker nappa leather with a waxy finish appears in tailored separates like a single-breasted blazer, trousers, and long-line shorts. For a more experimental edge, he created a column dress and a pencil skirt using strips of leather embroidered onto stretchy tulle—a design he says was inspired by his younger self. “When I was young, I was obsessed with stretch leather because of designers like Jean-Claude Jitrois. It’s something I wanted to explore and bring into this collection, almost like fulfilling a dream for my past self.”

Footwear is another major highlight, featuring Derby shoes, Helsinki loafers, and the standout Truck Lace loafer with a bold platform. The shoe’s futuristic design draws from Nouchi’s fascination with brutalism and technology. “It might be a bit controversial,” he says, laughing, “but I really like the Tesla Cybertruck. The sharp, angular lines and futuristic look combined with that raw, brutalist vibe—it’s something that resonates with me. The platform on the Truck Lace loafer feels like a nod to that kind of design.”

Another unique detail is the inclusion of removable coins on some of the shoes, adding a playful yet personal touch. “You can take the coins off—it becomes almost like a lucky charm,” Nouchi says. “It’s one of those small details that make the pieces feel more connected to the wearer.”

Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s signature slit motif, which adds subtle hints of reveal and concealment, runs throughout the collection. “The slit is about teasing the eye,” he explains. “It’s never about revealing too much—it’s about creating tension, a little mystery.” This motif appears on everything from loafers to hems, blending seamlessly with the collection's sensual yet structured aesthetic.

When asked about the versatility of his designs, Nouchi emphasizes their adaptability to different occasions. “You can wear these pieces in super casual situations on the street, looking super chic at night—super sexy,” he says. “From one garment, you can style it in so many ways during the day. For example, the tank top—you can wear it with pants, or without. It’s super hot, super cool, and it works for so many moments.”

For Nouchi, the collaboration with ECCO was as much about innovation as it was about creative freedom. “There are no limits with ECCO,” he says. “As a designer obsessed with materials, having the freedom to push development this far was an amazing opportunity. Fashion, for me, is like a laboratory. It’s about testing ideas and seeing how far we can take them.”

The ECCO.kollektive x Louis-Gabriel Nouchi collection is available now, combining high-quality craftsmanship with bold, modern design that showcases Nouchi’s vision and ECCO’s craftsmanship.