Teenage Troupes and 2003: Dsquared2 FW23

January 15, 2023

Dsquared2 is having a big moment this season in Milan. So when we first saw the looks traipse down the runway, our Editor-in-Chief texted me. "There's a lot of kitsch this season, fashion has a sense of humor all of a sudden," I said to him, having been bombarded by Instagram reacting to the onesies and cowboy boots, on top of Fendi's use of literal bread as an accessory. He replied, "Dsquared2 is just doing what it's doing. It's not trying. It's been doing that."

What Simon meant is that unlike many other longstanding labels, they didn't need to re-brand to receive the attention. Rather, the designer duo who debuted their first women's runway show exactly 20 years ago simply turned up the volume on what they do best. And we heard it, loud and clear. We were ready to.

Text by Anna Zanes
Photos courtesy of Dsquared2

Focusing on that very first women's show back in 2003 as a key reference, with the idea of high school archetypes or "teenage troupes" the likes of "emo", "geek", "jock" and "femme" as the core theme, Dsquared2 delivered a co-ed Fall/Winter collection that was the most authentic, thoughtful Y2K fantasy any of us could have attempted to dream up during the fervor of our recent Indie Sleaze style resurgence.

The collection toes the line brilliantly between introducing eccentric characterizations that take things too far and creating a collection that understands and articulates high-quality articles of clothing that reference the brand's beloved signature pieces with diverse and deliberate materials and insightful structuring. It left us with a whisper of a laugh, that wasn't at the line but with it. From the ironic graphics to the layering and exposing of lace underwear against the clothing, the rodeo references beside Pac-Man prints — the wit and wearability that permeated every piece offered us a clear and true understanding of early 2000's style from those that were at the helm of its invention.

Fashion

Vans x Sterling Ruby Return with New Collection

December 03, 2024

Vans and artist Sterling Ruby are teaming up again for a bold second collection through OTW by Vans, launching on December 5, 2024. The seven-piece lineup includes footwear and apparel inspired by Ruby’s art, featuring deep green and gold tones, rotting jack-o-lantern graphics, and monster claw motifs.

The collection includes four shoe designs, such as the Old Skool 36 and Sk8-Hi 38, crafted with premium materials like goatskin and sustainable cotton. It also introduces apparel with striking graphics and a bold slogan: “ABSOLUTE CONTEMPT FOR TOTAL SERENITY.”

Punk band Mannequin Pussy stars in the campaign, photographed by Nayquan Shuler during a live performance. Prices range from $125 to $200 and will be available at otw.vans.com starting December 5.

By Enzo Holdt
Photography by courtesy of VANS OTW

Fashion

Timberland and Veneda Carter Reimagine Classics with Bold Metallics

November 23, 2024

Veneda Carter teams up with Timberland once again, bringing a fresh edge to archival designs in their latest capsule collection. Highlight pieces include towering lace-up boots in electric blue and silver, alongside a sleek reinvention of Timberland’s iconic 6-Inch boot, both crafted with patent leather and recycled materials.

The collection also introduces rugged, versatile outerwear like oversized parkas, utility vests, and a statement boiler suit, all built for layering and durability. Inspired by industrial design and early 2000s fashion, Carter infuses each piece with a contemporary energy that feels both striking and wearable.

The collection is now available and can be found at flagship Timberland stores, online, and select retailers worldwide..

By Enzo Holdt
Photography courtesy of Timberland

Fashion

ECCO.kollektive collaborates with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi

November 21, 2024

ECCO.kollektive has teamed up with Paris-based designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi for a bold and innovative Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Known for his thoughtful exploration of masculinity and storytelling in fashion, Nouchi brings his unique perspective to this collaboration, blending his modern aesthetic with ECCO’s skill in craftsmanship and material innovation.

The collection features a range of footwear, clothing, and accessories, each designed with attention to detail. The collection uses a mix of black, deep red, and pearl white. Sensual touches, like Nouchi’s signature slits, combine with structured tailoring and flowing shapes, showing how the designer blends bold and refined styles.

We spoke with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi about the collection and his inspiration. From the textures of the human body to his love for stretch leather, Nouchi shared how the collaboration allowed to experiment with new ideas.

By Enzo Holdt
Photography by courtesy of ECCO.kollektive x LGN

The collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week and draws inspiration from the textures of the human body. “The idea came from the textures of skin,” Nouchi explains. “I wanted to create something sensual and fluid, using leather in a way that felt both strong and soft. Leather has this amazing quality—it can feel like armor, but also like a second skin.”

Nouchi worked closely with ECCO to develop designs that showcase the versatility of their materials. High-shine biker nappa leather with a waxy finish appears in tailored separates like a single-breasted blazer, trousers, and long-line shorts. For a more experimental edge, he created a column dress and a pencil skirt using strips of leather embroidered onto stretchy tulle—a design he says was inspired by his younger self. “When I was young, I was obsessed with stretch leather because of designers like Jean-Claude Jitrois. It’s something I wanted to explore and bring into this collection, almost like fulfilling a dream for my past self.”

Footwear is another major highlight, featuring Derby shoes, Helsinki loafers, and the standout Truck Lace loafer with a bold platform. The shoe’s futuristic design draws from Nouchi’s fascination with brutalism and technology. “It might be a bit controversial,” he says, laughing, “but I really like the Tesla Cybertruck. The sharp, angular lines and futuristic look combined with that raw, brutalist vibe—it’s something that resonates with me. The platform on the Truck Lace loafer feels like a nod to that kind of design.”

Another unique detail is the inclusion of removable coins on some of the shoes, adding a playful yet personal touch. “You can take the coins off—it becomes almost like a lucky charm,” Nouchi says. “It’s one of those small details that make the pieces feel more connected to the wearer.”

Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s signature slit motif, which adds subtle hints of reveal and concealment, runs throughout the collection. “The slit is about teasing the eye,” he explains. “It’s never about revealing too much—it’s about creating tension, a little mystery.” This motif appears on everything from loafers to hems, blending seamlessly with the collection's sensual yet structured aesthetic.

When asked about the versatility of his designs, Nouchi emphasizes their adaptability to different occasions. “You can wear these pieces in super casual situations on the street, looking super chic at night—super sexy,” he says. “From one garment, you can style it in so many ways during the day. For example, the tank top—you can wear it with pants, or without. It’s super hot, super cool, and it works for so many moments.”

For Nouchi, the collaboration with ECCO was as much about innovation as it was about creative freedom. “There are no limits with ECCO,” he says. “As a designer obsessed with materials, having the freedom to push development this far was an amazing opportunity. Fashion, for me, is like a laboratory. It’s about testing ideas and seeing how far we can take them.”

The ECCO.kollektive x Louis-Gabriel Nouchi collection is available now, combining high-quality craftsmanship with bold, modern design that showcases Nouchi’s vision and ECCO’s craftsmanship.