Wiederhoeft's Mythology

February 15, 2024

Jackson Wiederhoeft is no stranger to theatrics. Some critics have argued that he refuses to let the clothes speak for themselves, using dance and performance to augment the presentation. This season, in his AW24 collection, “Secret Room,” Wiederhoeft silences the naysayers in a display that’s the perfect balance between romantic and eerie. Compared to previous seasons, the presentation aimed to be closer to a traditional runway setting. But, as we’ve seen from his bridal collections, the Wiederhoeft attempt at “traditional” still leaves us some room for excitement.

This wasn’t your mother’s catwalk — in a presentation that was more aligned with salon-style shows, models emerged from a heavy mist and twisted and turned around guests, maintaining eye contact and using subtle ballerina-esque gestures to explore the space and their bodies within it. Sorry Naomi, we know you said to never touch the dress, but quite literally, everyone was “feeling themselves.” And for good reason.

By Izzy Capulong
Photography by Matt Weinberger

In true Wiederhoeft fashion, everything was corseted. Nothing was safe, no waistline left undefined. Even what would normally be considered “men’s” looks, Wiederhoeft cinches in. One of my favorite looks involved a boxy high-waisted trouser with some cheeky sequined handprints placed strategically on the back. Playing with feathers, veils, and giant flowers, Wiederhoeft puts a modern spin on what we imagine would have been worn in the high society of Old New York, paying homage to a decadence seemingly of a bygone era without making attempts to return to it. Wiederhoeft is not looking back.

The final Wiederhoeft look is always a bride — this season was no different — teardrop crystals, shattered pearls, and a dramatic draped train that dragged the fog across the floor. The bride facelessly disappearing into the blue mist created an image reminiscent of the story of Orpheus and Eurydice. Some people say that he turned around, not because he was foolish or fearful, but because it is in his memory of her where their love is strongest. But the Wiederhoeft bride does not turn to look at us one more time — we see her, moving forward, unrelenting, and not looking back. Wiederhoeft refuses to live only in memory.

Fashion

Timberland and Veneda Carter Reimagine Classics with Bold Metallics

November 23, 2024

Veneda Carter teams up with Timberland once again, bringing a fresh edge to archival designs in their latest capsule collection. Highlight pieces include towering lace-up boots in electric blue and silver, alongside a sleek reinvention of Timberland’s iconic 6-Inch boot, both crafted with patent leather and recycled materials.

The collection also introduces rugged, versatile outerwear like oversized parkas, utility vests, and a statement boiler suit, all built for layering and durability. Inspired by industrial design and early 2000s fashion, Carter infuses each piece with a contemporary energy that feels both striking and wearable.

The collection is now available and can be found at flagship Timberland stores, online, and select retailers worldwide..

By Enzo Holdt
Photography courtesy of Timberland

Fashion

ECCO.kollektive collaborates with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi

November 21, 2024

ECCO.kollektive has teamed up with Paris-based designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi for a bold and innovative Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Known for his thoughtful exploration of masculinity and storytelling in fashion, Nouchi brings his unique perspective to this collaboration, blending his modern aesthetic with ECCO’s skill in craftsmanship and material innovation.

The collection features a range of footwear, clothing, and accessories, each designed with attention to detail. The collection uses a mix of black, deep red, and pearl white. Sensual touches, like Nouchi’s signature slits, combine with structured tailoring and flowing shapes, showing how the designer blends bold and refined styles.

We spoke with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi about the collection and his inspiration. From the textures of the human body to his love for stretch leather, Nouchi shared how the collaboration allowed to experiment with new ideas.

By Enzo Holdt
Photography by courtesy of ECCO.kollektive x LGN

The collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week and draws inspiration from the textures of the human body. “The idea came from the textures of skin,” Nouchi explains. “I wanted to create something sensual and fluid, using leather in a way that felt both strong and soft. Leather has this amazing quality—it can feel like armor, but also like a second skin.”

Nouchi worked closely with ECCO to develop designs that showcase the versatility of their materials. High-shine biker nappa leather with a waxy finish appears in tailored separates like a single-breasted blazer, trousers, and long-line shorts. For a more experimental edge, he created a column dress and a pencil skirt using strips of leather embroidered onto stretchy tulle—a design he says was inspired by his younger self. “When I was young, I was obsessed with stretch leather because of designers like Jean-Claude Jitrois. It’s something I wanted to explore and bring into this collection, almost like fulfilling a dream for my past self.”

Footwear is another major highlight, featuring Derby shoes, Helsinki loafers, and the standout Truck Lace loafer with a bold platform. The shoe’s futuristic design draws from Nouchi’s fascination with brutalism and technology. “It might be a bit controversial,” he says, laughing, “but I really like the Tesla Cybertruck. The sharp, angular lines and futuristic look combined with that raw, brutalist vibe—it’s something that resonates with me. The platform on the Truck Lace loafer feels like a nod to that kind of design.”

Another unique detail is the inclusion of removable coins on some of the shoes, adding a playful yet personal touch. “You can take the coins off—it becomes almost like a lucky charm,” Nouchi says. “It’s one of those small details that make the pieces feel more connected to the wearer.”

Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s signature slit motif, which adds subtle hints of reveal and concealment, runs throughout the collection. “The slit is about teasing the eye,” he explains. “It’s never about revealing too much—it’s about creating tension, a little mystery.” This motif appears on everything from loafers to hems, blending seamlessly with the collection's sensual yet structured aesthetic.

When asked about the versatility of his designs, Nouchi emphasizes their adaptability to different occasions. “You can wear these pieces in super casual situations on the street, looking super chic at night—super sexy,” he says. “From one garment, you can style it in so many ways during the day. For example, the tank top—you can wear it with pants, or without. It’s super hot, super cool, and it works for so many moments.”

For Nouchi, the collaboration with ECCO was as much about innovation as it was about creative freedom. “There are no limits with ECCO,” he says. “As a designer obsessed with materials, having the freedom to push development this far was an amazing opportunity. Fashion, for me, is like a laboratory. It’s about testing ideas and seeing how far we can take them.”

The ECCO.kollektive x Louis-Gabriel Nouchi collection is available now, combining high-quality craftsmanship with bold, modern design that showcases Nouchi’s vision and ECCO’s craftsmanship.