AVAVAV Does All of Its Own Stunts

March 01, 2023

AVAVAV does all of its own stunts. Last season, during Milan Fashion Week, the Florence-based label poked fun at the capitalist-driven society we inevitably bow to by emblazoning the words “cash cow” upon graphic tees and having models purposely fall as they approached the runway. By infusing the presentation with satire, Creative Director Beate Karlsson popped the pretentious bubble that surrounds the fashion industry, interrupting conceit with an injection of reality.

This season, Karrlson took onlookers on yet another idiosyncratic ride with the debut of AVAVAV’s AW23 collection: “Fake It Til You Break It.” Fashion enthusiasts are all too familiar with the plot of The Devil Wears Prada, the ostentatious lines trailing out the door of fashion week parties, and the plainly apparent barriers that exist for many to even get close to those events, let alone enter the threshold. Mainstream fashion is and has been, a rat race to be or look the “best” — a status that we have not even wholly agreed upon measuring factors for.

Text by Kayla Curtis-Evans
Photos By Federico Pompei

But, positively, we are seeing this air of exclusivity loosen up, with more and more outliers being granted access to the industry and tastemakers shifting away from homogeneity. AVAVAV’s latest collection is a commentary on this phenomenon, emphasizing the darker underbelly that lies beneath the glitz and glam. “I’ve been asking myself; why is luxury so serious? Is it because we strive to be perfect? Old legacy houses defined luxury as a lifestyle of elegance, high quality, and seriousness. Luxury today is being redefined; to me, it’s more of an attitude. In 2023, luxury can be worn-out sneakers, expensive tracksuits, or upcycled ragged coats,” Karrlson meditates.

Putting her thesis to the test, models strutted down the runway in elevated streetwear items, such as uber-oversized hoodies, printed mini skirts, intricate outerwear, and fantastical accessories — from giant fuzzy boots to AVAVAV’s signature grotesque footwear, of course. As each stepped out from backstage, audiences watched as their ensembles began to literally fall apart. Buttons haphazardly popped off of dresses, heels broke off of boots, and garments were deconstructed with each model’s step — symbolizing the lack of authenticity the industry continues to push forth. By flipping the traditional narrative of what a buttoned-up, flawless fashion week presentation should look like, Karrlson ushers sensitivity and vulnerability into a space where both are not always easy to find.

And just when we thought Karrlson had cemented her point, as the last models sashayed off the runway, the entire backdrop came crashing down onto the stage, as the industry’s insurmountable standards toppled downward with it. See full photos from the collection and runway show below.

Fashion

Timberland and Veneda Carter Reimagine Classics with Bold Metallics

November 23, 2024

Veneda Carter teams up with Timberland once again, bringing a fresh edge to archival designs in their latest capsule collection. Highlight pieces include towering lace-up boots in electric blue and silver, alongside a sleek reinvention of Timberland’s iconic 6-Inch boot, both crafted with patent leather and recycled materials.

The collection also introduces rugged, versatile outerwear like oversized parkas, utility vests, and a statement boiler suit, all built for layering and durability. Inspired by industrial design and early 2000s fashion, Carter infuses each piece with a contemporary energy that feels both striking and wearable.

The collection is now available and can be found at flagship Timberland stores, online, and select retailers worldwide..

By Enzo Holdt
Photography courtesy of Timberland

Fashion

ECCO.kollektive collaborates with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi

November 21, 2024

ECCO.kollektive has teamed up with Paris-based designer Louis-Gabriel Nouchi for a bold and innovative Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Known for his thoughtful exploration of masculinity and storytelling in fashion, Nouchi brings his unique perspective to this collaboration, blending his modern aesthetic with ECCO’s skill in craftsmanship and material innovation.

The collection features a range of footwear, clothing, and accessories, each designed with attention to detail. The collection uses a mix of black, deep red, and pearl white. Sensual touches, like Nouchi’s signature slits, combine with structured tailoring and flowing shapes, showing how the designer blends bold and refined styles.

We spoke with Louis-Gabriel Nouchi about the collection and his inspiration. From the textures of the human body to his love for stretch leather, Nouchi shared how the collaboration allowed to experiment with new ideas.

By Enzo Holdt
Photography by courtesy of ECCO.kollektive x LGN

The collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week and draws inspiration from the textures of the human body. “The idea came from the textures of skin,” Nouchi explains. “I wanted to create something sensual and fluid, using leather in a way that felt both strong and soft. Leather has this amazing quality—it can feel like armor, but also like a second skin.”

Nouchi worked closely with ECCO to develop designs that showcase the versatility of their materials. High-shine biker nappa leather with a waxy finish appears in tailored separates like a single-breasted blazer, trousers, and long-line shorts. For a more experimental edge, he created a column dress and a pencil skirt using strips of leather embroidered onto stretchy tulle—a design he says was inspired by his younger self. “When I was young, I was obsessed with stretch leather because of designers like Jean-Claude Jitrois. It’s something I wanted to explore and bring into this collection, almost like fulfilling a dream for my past self.”

Footwear is another major highlight, featuring Derby shoes, Helsinki loafers, and the standout Truck Lace loafer with a bold platform. The shoe’s futuristic design draws from Nouchi’s fascination with brutalism and technology. “It might be a bit controversial,” he says, laughing, “but I really like the Tesla Cybertruck. The sharp, angular lines and futuristic look combined with that raw, brutalist vibe—it’s something that resonates with me. The platform on the Truck Lace loafer feels like a nod to that kind of design.”

Another unique detail is the inclusion of removable coins on some of the shoes, adding a playful yet personal touch. “You can take the coins off—it becomes almost like a lucky charm,” Nouchi says. “It’s one of those small details that make the pieces feel more connected to the wearer.”

Louis-Gabriel Nouchi’s signature slit motif, which adds subtle hints of reveal and concealment, runs throughout the collection. “The slit is about teasing the eye,” he explains. “It’s never about revealing too much—it’s about creating tension, a little mystery.” This motif appears on everything from loafers to hems, blending seamlessly with the collection's sensual yet structured aesthetic.

When asked about the versatility of his designs, Nouchi emphasizes their adaptability to different occasions. “You can wear these pieces in super casual situations on the street, looking super chic at night—super sexy,” he says. “From one garment, you can style it in so many ways during the day. For example, the tank top—you can wear it with pants, or without. It’s super hot, super cool, and it works for so many moments.”

For Nouchi, the collaboration with ECCO was as much about innovation as it was about creative freedom. “There are no limits with ECCO,” he says. “As a designer obsessed with materials, having the freedom to push development this far was an amazing opportunity. Fashion, for me, is like a laboratory. It’s about testing ideas and seeing how far we can take them.”

The ECCO.kollektive x Louis-Gabriel Nouchi collection is available now, combining high-quality craftsmanship with bold, modern design that showcases Nouchi’s vision and ECCO’s craftsmanship.