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Couture Spring 2024: You're Welcome, Loud Luxury

 

Alaïa

Alaïa’s subtle splatter of poise was a case in point: keeping with the season’s yearning for reductionism, the collection exemplified simplicity and purity, with dashes of intimacy that nodded to a freedom that chose not to “minimize but to focus,” reworking Azzedine’s concepts in sheer separates. The result? A rich dish, skimmed of all fat. And as Pieter Mulier proved here, there’s no aesthetic loss to working along this lane.

 

 

Chanel

At Chanel, Virginie Viard took the jewel-button into the realm of ballet. A medley of artistic influencers came together as fuss-free poetry, translating into the likes of short straight skirts, jumpsuits and capes emblazoned with embroidered details that nodded to masculine figures.

 

 

Christian Dior

Uptown girls of a certain class have–no doubt–found affection for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s oeuvre at Dior, who flexed her creative muscle by exploring the “plural beauty of textiles.” The pleasing element was found within the tangible, chromatic and breezy presence of the elements that constitute the silhouette, working alongside the theoretical dimensions of haute couture: an experience that is not only “contemplative, but also performative.”

 

 

Schiaparelli

Welcome to Schiapar-alien! For Spring, Daniel Rosberry drew influences from sci-fi movies, retro technology and his Texan upbringing, to question what it means to be human in the backstage age, continuing his dictionary of sculptural dressing by blending traditional tailoring techniques and contemporary cool.

 

 

FENDI

Speaking of blend, there was a newfound pragmatism at FENDI, where geometric pattern cutting created lightness in textures like gazar, all while following the female body through rigorous cuts.

 

 

Valentino

A rigor that embraced all manner of grandeur at Valentino, with a collection that acts as an interplay of pieces, creating a modern wardrobe that owns the fundamental ground of recontextualization, shifting perceptions, resetting key values and attitudes of the modern age.

 

 

Maison Margiela

Elsewhere, Maison Margiela’s Spring 2024 Couture show — a poignant, masterful mimicry of John Galliano’s Fall 95/96 outing — brought forth the showy hallmarks of fashion The attention to detail was–as always, with Gallano – impressive, but more than that, the collection eased some of Margiela’s excess into minimal territory — a place where designers have taken the ‘safe card’ to extreme proportions over the last few seasons (you’re welcome, loud luxury). Galliano presented a fantasy without fear: dramatic gestures and romance, stirring emotions, with a spectacular show that reaffirmed the position — and purpose — of fashion right back to where it belongs: In the trunk of dreams.

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