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Remembering Cristóbal Balenciaga

A pioneer of abstract yet flattering shapes not previously seen in women’s fashion, Balenciaga created for strong personalities who could don his designs like second skins, almost as if they were characters to put on and take off. Cristóbal Balenciaga: Master of Tailoring invites viewers into the “classical oasis of the Spanish couturier’s Parisian showroom, allowing them to experience his habitude with hushed reverence, immersed in his chapel-like salon frequented by Hollywood starlets and royalty who wore his creations.” The exhibition provides a rare opportunity to witness some of his archival pieces from the 1940s to the late 1960s.

 

Balenciaga’s mastery of cut and silhouette distinguished him as a legend among his contemporaries. Christian Dior once described him as “the master of us all,” echoing sentiments shared by Coco Chanel, who hailed him as the only authentic couturier, and Hubert de Givenchy, who dubbed him the “architect of haute couture.” He was a private man, dedicated to his work and one of the only couturiers capable of designing, cutting, assembling, and sewing a dress from start to finish at the time.

 

 

Featuring 32 designs from the Fondation Azzedine Alaïa, ranging from daywear to evening gowns worn by Hollywood icons like Elizabeth Taylor and Dolores del Río, the exhibition tells the story of Balenciaga in little chapters, snippets that remind us of Demna’s pledged return to “the art of making clothes” with Balenciaga’s Fall 2023 Haute Couture collection. That is what Balenciaga was a master of, the art of making clothes, clothes that contained traces of himself. As fashion critic Cathy Horyn pointed out in a review of Couture week for The Cut, it is these “traces” that distinguish a couture piece from a machine-made one.

 

And that is perhaps what was most prevalent across the slew of presentations at Paris Couture — collections that mirrored their creators. It’s what made John Galliano’s Maison Margiela SS24 collection such an era-defining moment. It felt like him, through and through, making it inimitable, much like the dresses Balenciaga made. From then to now, what continues to be true is that couture takes time, and that while technology can expedite the process, it is still a craft done almost entirely by hand, at least when it’s done well.

The exhibition at SCAD FASH is a reminder of a time when designers like Balenciaga had the freedom to craft at a slower pace. Hopefully, it signals a growing call for a shift, whether in a new or familiar direction, one that focuses on beauty and craftsmanship over profit.

Cristóbal Balenciaga: Master of Tailoring is on view until June 2nd, 2024.

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